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Need referrals for 24 Scout tank pinhole repairs
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I know of three who are really good, one is John Bivens and also Vahan Dinihanian. Vahan has adds in the mag, he is in Washington I think. John is in So Cal, both are very good and very expensive ! One other who is very good and a real deal compared to the others Alex Trepanier, he is a Cannonballer and very skilled and usually quick too, he is in So Cal, he is on facebook. Or I have his number if you want it, good luck
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Originally posted by Daron View PostI have a 24 Scout with old paint with pinholes in bottom. I've cleaned it inside with Evaporust and a hand full of bolts and have knocked the rust loose that was keeping it from leaking. Surely there is someone out there who provides as a service soldering up the holes or cutting and patching the weak bottom while maintaining most of the patina to the tank. HELP!!!
Mike Love
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You could try a local welding company, look in the yellow pages (haha) or google. Don't tell them it's a gas tank until you see them, they get nervous. Once they see it's never had gas in it, they will be fine.
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Thanks Mike, I agree with all that and it likely may be my route. A new tank is available from Germany for $1200 and my caps and pumps fit it. My paint is from probably 30’s and decal is wrong so it’s a viable option. I appreciate all the input so far. That’s why I reached out to the community.
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Originally posted by ihrescue View Post
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/aged...evable-patina/
Mike Love
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Originally posted by Daron View PostI have a 24 Scout with old paint with pinholes in bottom. I've cleaned it inside with Evaporust and a hand full of bolts and have knocked the rust loose that was keeping it from leaking. Surely there is someone out there who provides as a service soldering up the holes or cutting and patching the weak bottom while maintaining most of the patina to the tank. HELP!!!
https://www.gastankrenu.com
Mike Love
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Find a radiator shop that builds them for vintage/brass cars. Easy job for them.
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Exeric , To find someone willing and capable to do it for me. Thought that was clear.
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Yet kitabel and T. Cotten the potential repair must be better than a sealer as a band aid. The bike is rebuilt and sound enough to ride so sitting on a few gallons of gasoline above a hot twin isn't something I take lightly. The goal is to replace by patching the porous bottom of the tank with new metal. A scar at the bottom edge will match the rest of the bike so I can live with that. Worst case it becomes shop art and I buy a new tank and distress it.
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Beware Daron,..
Sealers are primarily to prevent future corrosion.
Please don't trust even the most fuel-resistant sealer readily available, 'Red-Cote', to fill every microfissure.
Your tanks must be mechanically sound first. Any oldtimey radiator shops left in your neighborhood?
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 03-09-2021, 05:04 PM.
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I would consider a quality tank sealer. I've repaired my own tanks via solder, and new panels and that requires surgically clean metal to work with; ergo, all paint is removed. You really don't have anything to loose by using a tank sealer and if the repair doesn't work, you can always remove the sealer with paint remover, and MEK. Just make sure the sealer has clean metal to stick too.
Love your Scout and I can see why you want to preserve it.Last edited by exeric; 03-09-2021, 06:02 AM.
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pisten-bully, you are correct that the decal is later but the patina is even on the bike painted in probably the 30's. Not confident I could get the similar look with a new tank distressed to look old.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
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Daron, I think that Indian head tank decal is much later so saving the paint (and decal) could be optional. Would open up a few more options for you,
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