clear gel in carb bowl?

[mmoore]

hey admin guy as a married guy I have to wonder since you used the dryer how did you expiain that to your wife? or are you single this has me really puzzeled. however that was a good idea to clean the inside. years ago I saw a tank deruster a guy made out of a old paint mixer. he made some mounts that were adjustable and would put b-bs with a liquid in them shake for about 20 minutes then rinse and check. took all the rust out and made them shiney. so if you guys find any paint shakers snatch them up. a idea I was going to try was to get a motor that i could reduce to about 20 rpm put a tube on the end and put some mounts for my tank on it . with about 2-3 hundred b-bs and solvent then let it rotate for a hour or so. I will probaly have to work it at different angles to get all the inside as my design might not get the b-bs to the higher parts of the tankwhen its rotating. the paint shaker was perfect tho if I find one around here i will make one of them

[23JDCA 808]

Be careful with any tank (or container) partially full of any solvent ...or anything that emits fumes. If there is any amount of air in the tank it can be a potentially explosive situation. ...bill

[Kojack]

Yeah, I don't think putting those tanks in the dryer with solvent would be a good idea but it doesn't sound like he did that. I wonder how he kept from beating the tar out of the inside of the dryer and the tanks. Maybe he threw them in with a load of laundry?

[rousseau]

I rigged a deal using a rotisserie motor from an outdoor grill. Used several nuts and bolts various shapes and sizes. The different shapes an sizes give better results.
I still say use the Kreem kit. The secret is in the tank prep. Follow the instructions carefully.
I see no reason to use sealer in a new tank. I'm sure the vendor recomends it. This could hide a faulty tank, plus you'll be spending more money.
If your wanting to preserve your original tank. simply drain it completly ,let it air dry a couple of days to evaporate what little if any gas is left. Spray it liberally with water dispersive formula forty {WD-40}and tape up the bungs. I also see no need to put sealer in this tank.

Now back to the first Question about gel -crude in the carb. It was explained to me years ago this was the result of Galvanic reaction from all the different metals in the carb.
So yes, I always drain the bowl if I know the the bike is going to be idle for a while.

On a final note , whenever we suspected there may be water in our tanks, cars, bikes,tractors ,anything. we would pour in just a little denatured alcohol as it tends to absorb the water. We would not add gas until the tanks would run dry. Never store with alcohol/gas mix. The alcohol is a corrosive.

[mmoore]

[QUOTE]
I see no reason to use sealer in a new tank. I'm sure the vendor recomends it. This could hide a faulty tank, plus you'll be spending more money.[unquote]
I agree with what you said but... there is NO warrenty on these new tanks unless you seal them! when i buy them I will contact the manufactor and ask them what kind of sealer they insist on and ask if the warrenty will cover any fuel problems caused by it and then see what they say. I wish i could line them with lead maybe that would be the answer. mike

[T. Cotten]

Sealing rusty tanks

Don't look now folks, but the color red doesn't guarantee a sealer is better than any other against the evil P4gas!

This whole thread is a repeat of a year ago; check out my photo of tank liver at http://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/bbo...ht=Rusty+tanks
or type sealing rusty tanks into the search function at the top of the page.

Use of a sealer within a gastank is a desperate measure, best reserved for soldered tanks. We never know when fuels may get even more nasty.

....Cotten

[swall]

There is a tank sealer used by the homebuilt aircraft people, made by a company called Randolph. Supposed to be alcohol resistent. Try Wicks Aircraft Supply or Aircraft Spruce.

[T. Cotten]

For the record, 'alcohol' ain't the problem.

The aforementioned 'liver' was dried and cut into pieces, and then tested in a range of solvents, along with Buna-N.

Punctilious ethanol (rectified way beyond the first still drippings) had no effect upon either.
However, ethanol blended gasolines disoolved the sealer completely, and swoll the Buna-N noticeably.

Last year I tried to soak apart a bunch of flasks that had been super-glued into a flower vases. The first batch took two weeks to soften until I could pry them apart.
Yesterday I put another batch into this year's Shell Premium. Today the flasks fell apart upon inspection.
I fear that to be an indicator that this year's American pump gases will be the most noxious ever.
Never mind your gaskets and seals,....Hang on to your lungs, liver and kidneys,... moonshine in the exhaust would be healthier to breathe!

....Cotten

[mmoore]

cotten I agree with what you stated, alcolhol is not the problem. if I decide to use a sealer I will put some on a piece opf metal and let it soak in a glass jar so i can watch it. the problem is with the additives they put in the gas. as I stated earler when they have a bad batch of gas ( eg. too high of moisture or contaminants) they mix it with better gas or add other additives to make it saleable to us. with the profit on gas they dont want to waste any potential profit. Some gas retailers also buy this lesser grade and mix thier own additives to it and sell it at the same (or close to) the better ones. we will never know what we are getting unless we test every tankful! This info I got from a retailer that I knew for many years that would not put his own gas in a old cadilac he had!!! One last thing look at how it gets from there to here... it goes thru pipes,pumps,tanks and trucks before getting to the pumps. all kinds of other products go thru the SAME system! None of these systems are cleaned of the old product before the new one comes thru. thier solution is dilution. by the way I avoid shell also. I think they have too many additives. This is why im going to burn moonshine!! one last note last year a guy was fired from his job at a alcy plant here in iowa... seems there was a small spill so he cleaned it up and was found later to be drunk.... thats a dedicated worker (must have been cleaning the floor with his tongue!!!)

[AdminGuy]

If I (someone) were to distill corn or potato alc for a pool of 6 or 7 guys. What readily available additives would a chemical engineer recommend for it to burn with satisfaction in an old engine?

[T. Cotten]

Adminguy asked: "What readily available additives would a chemical engineer recommend for it to burn with satisfaction in an old engine?"

Zero additives, period, if he's a real engineer who has done his homework. Unless you feel you must denature it for tax purposes.
Most top end lubes would drastically lower the volatility of the 95 octane liquor.

Mike Brown ran 95/5 in modern times, although somebody had to have done it in hard times somewhere before.

You gotta start with a carbon-free motor, up your compression to 8 to 1 or higher (sorry, Flatties), and open your petcock and carb jetting to "full flood". (The volumetric efficiency of moonshine requires at least a half-again shot to give the energy of the compacted hydrocarbons of gasoline.)

Oh,....and you'll have a bitch starting it except in the heat of summer.

That's why ethanol should be reserved for dedicated transit or even stationary applications, thus freeing up fossil fuels best suited to our grandfathered vehicles.

.....Cotten

[mmoore]

about 6 years ago I ran the 85% alcy blend in a pickup a 300 six cyl. all I did was drill out the jets 10% on a stock carb. I ran it for about 8 months thru a iowa winter. It started just as well as it ever did which was pretty good (always in less than 5-7 seconds) even at 15 below. the only reason I changed back was the alchy was not easy to find back then. It has been around almost 10 years now.that motor had over 100,000 miles when I did it the guy that bought it was going to put the carb back on and run it again but i dont know if he ever did as i moved.On the nites when other cars would not run that truck always did so I cant say from my experence that it is not a good way to go. I believe it is better than gas that is sold today and has a lot less additives. Im not kidding here it burns a lot cleaner and when you change your oil send it in for a oil test (available at most auto jobbers). the results are amazing as how much less blowby contaminants are in it. gas is dirty and hard on oil. I cant wait till it is available coast to coast

[AdminGuy]

I think I can change the needle position and jet on the Triumph for it. Faintly remember reading something about that in carb settings. I think that would be a better experimental bike by the sounds of things.

[petri]

Additives

So what I am now wondering is:

Does anyone know if the additive that has caused the problems over the years in the 10% ethanol blends also appears in the new E85 gas? If not then perhaps E85 is a good option as ethanol is supposed to be a very clean burning fuel.

One problem I see is that E85 seems to be no cheaper than gas and when gas goes up so does E85. Why? We have it around here but as of yet it doesn't seem to be economical when compared to gas (energy content considered).

Still I'm for it since it gets produced here and creates jobs here and ought to cut into our overseas dependence on oil. And would that be a big plus.

Does anybody actually have any experience with it in an old motorcycle, flathead or OHV?

Howard

[DWN]

The older gas blends usually were blended with methanol, not ethanol. Methanol caused a lot of problems with garb gaskets, pumps, etc. Then they tried MTBE, which has another set of problems.......
As far as the price moving in step with straight gas, it's economics. Everyone wants to squeeze out that last penny. Do I like it? No, but it's what has made America great, and strong.
As an Indiana farm boy, I'd like to see everyone dependent on me, rather than foreign oil. But in reality, ethanol is best used as a way to get more oxygen into the fuel for a cleaner burn.