What is it??

[Steve Little]

No bites on identifying the rocker arms or the bracket and lens?

OK, on with Experiment 1.
Diluted molasses: 10 parts water to 1 part Molasses, vs rust.
The rusty parts went into the molasses mix on the 22nd of Dec and came out on the 5th Jan = 3 weeks.
A before and after pic in the same post will make it easier for a comparison.

PC220002.jpg

P1050006.jpg


The K model rod went a little bit darker while the rusty no-name rod turned out nice.
But an interesting side note… while wiping the rods down with paper towel the rods knocked together. One of the rods let off a sound like a tuning fork and the other went donk!. I tapped each one separately and the K model rod sings…the no-name rod goes donk?

P1050005.jpg

The Sporty gear went in looking like a light wire buff would make it perfect and came out smoked.
It looks like either, some of the hardened skin has dissolved in the molasses or some of the rust has calcified on the gear.

I would like to try the vinegar next. Is it neat or diluted with water?

[BigLakeBob]

In response to the sporty gear and 'some of the hardened skin has dissolved'. I hear quit often remarks like 'going through the hardness'. My experience in the machine shop trade tells me a carburized and hardened piece of mild steel has a hardness thickness of about .035-.060 deep. Whereas a piece of mild steel can be carbo-nitrided to a case hardness of about .015 deep. I am also familiar with gas nitriding (which is very hard- I'd say high 60's Rc) which can be anywhere from .005 to .030 deep, but in my experience the base metal has to be hardened first to at least 28-32Rc. And then there are tool steels which are usually hardened throughout. Do we know how HD parts like gears, crank pins, and shafts were heat treated and what the base metal was?
Hope I'm not hi-jacking your thread Steve. Thanks, Bob

[exeric]

I never put hardened parts, or springs in a chemical bath to remove oxidation. I ruined some parts years ago doing that. I have no idea what happens on a metallurgical level, but I guess acid loves to eat carbon. In regards to the vinegar bath, my method is to make a vinegar to water ratio of about 2 : 1 and monitor the progress. The main reason I use vinegar is because I keep it in a covered bucket behind my storage shed. There is also a large bees nest in a tree back there and I think molasses would be asking for trouble.

[Chris Haynes]

I have found that Horse feed molasses works best. Buy it at the feed store.

[T. Cotten]

I have found that Horse feed molasses works best. Buy it at the feed store.

I'm in a rural town, Chris!

And still must make a seventy mile round trip to the big city for feed grade molasses.
Horse owners must be rich. Gotta be.

So I go through gallons of white vinegar from the "dime-now-dollar" store.
'Course I use it for many, many other purposes than just converting ferric oxides to soluble ferric acetates.

Ultimately, it always takes 'elbow grease' or some other mechanical means to remove the crud.

....Cotten

[Chris Haynes]

I'm in a rural town, Chris!
And still must make a seventy mile round trip to the big city for feed grade molasses.
Horse owners must be rich. Gotta be.
....Cotten

Here it is, delivered to your door.
https://www.amazon.com/YTEX-EQUINE-G...ses+horse+feed

[T. Cotten]

Here it is, delivered to your door.
https://www.amazon.com/YTEX-EQUINE-G...ses+horse+feed

You are making me a Luddite, Chris!

Amazon delivered doesn't seem organic, somehow.
Neither's the 'dollar' store vinegar, but its only a half-block away (and I have no "Amazon" account.. yet.. ).

Everything has a time and a place, and I'll bet molasses has better effect in some instances than others have in others.
Pity nobody studies it.

....Cotten

[Peter Cooke]

I would like to try the vinegar next. Is it neat or diluted with water?

Steve,
I've used home brand vinegar straight. I figured being home brand it'd be weak anyway without adding any extra water. Works ok, leave it soak for a few days and wire brush off. Good for weed killer as well.

[Steve Little]

Hi. Thanks for all the responses, including hard surface, and tempered depths. When we used to make the pressing dies for the frame business, we used to get the heat treatment plant to put a 0015" - 003" skin on them to stop wear.

Also enjoyed reading the vinegary and tempered responses.

From my experience, I will throw a note of caution to first time molasses users:
Hardened or high carbon parts ie shafts, gears, clutch hubs, clutch drums, or anything with a bearing race, should not go in the molasses mix?

Thanks Pete. I’m off to the super market to see if I can get some good Australian product… Skipping girl vinegar.

Skipping girl image.jpg

[Peter Cooke]

I think I read somewhere once that apple cider vinegar works better than white vinegar but I've never got around to trying it.

[FNG1]

Hi Steve, no one is interested in the late 50s Triumph Tiger Cub rocker shafts. Check out the Indian Scout motor on this saw.Dow saw.jpg

[T. Cotten]

I think I read somewhere once that apple cider vinegar works better than white vinegar but I've never got around to trying it.

It would certainly eat more wallet, Peter!

I boil some stuff.
Other stuff you must watch carefully.

Just don't forget the baking soda neutralization.

....Cotten

[BigLakeBob]

.
FNG1 I can't identify yours but whatever they are out of, it will most probably have some kind of removable cap to adjust those adjusting screws.
And these parts are from a similar ammo can in a different part of the world.

Red lense has TMC-717 SAE-STDB-62 GLO_ BRITE. IT measures 93mm diam or 3 11/16"
The steel backing plate is 98mm or 3 7/8"


[ATTACH=CONFIG]23478[/ATTACH]

DSC06064.JPGDSC06065.JPG
OD is 95mm and lens configuration looks different. Maybe with this being a NOS in the box with part # might help narrow the search or head you in the right direction. This one says on the bottom 'SAE STDB', on the top 'GUIDE R6-60'. Hole spread is 72mm with 5mm holes offset from center. I bought this hoping it would fit my Leggero, but no cigar.

https://harleyhummer.com/products/68091-60 Yours looks like this lens, maybe.

[Steve Little]

Thanks Bob. I reckon your on the right path. This has a part number finishing in -62. Wikipedia suggested Ranger, Pacer, or Scat for 1962 to 1965.

FNG1. Man!! That's a weapon. When I was in my mid twenties, I operated tracked machines ie: Koering and Cat feller-bunchers and a Koering processor, in clear fall pine and later on, I was set loose in plantation hard wood.
I had to have a chainsaw licence to clear the bigger edge trees. I cant think why the guy who built that machine needed all that grunt. Maybe it was for chainsaw racing. That's a mad sport.

[Tom Wilcock]

Steve
Back to the molasses and water rust removal method. I mentioned it to a chemist. The molasses /water mixture simply converts red oxide to black oxide which can be readily removed. It will in no way affect the steel or erode it, only the oxide.
Tom