Linkert Carb low speed needle lift lever

[T. Cotten]

Mason jars are the foundation of our Nation, Will!

I carry my coffee in one daily.

(And my favorite beers come with Ball on the can.)

....Cotten

[lux]

And that's what makes you the artist Cotton.
I'm very happy with my apprentice level work. Even with my Mason jar at home nickel plating. I hope to buy you lunch some day for all your help.

[T. Cotten]

I avoid punchmarks, Will!

My punch leaves a circular dent around the ball,like the factory, and takes barely a tap.
I stake choke detentes on brass models, too, even if they weren't.

....Cotten

[lux]

Cotton, We make a hell of a team!
I used a punch as you suggested to make three tiny indents in a triangle around the hole. Then it snapped in like a champ. Now the low speed needle rolls on it perfectly and holds its setting.
I can't thank you enough for all the help. I kinda feel like a long distance apprentice.

[T. Cotten]

Hi Cotton,
I have another question;
I have the new spring and ball bearing for the lifter lever. I like the length of the spring. The problem is that when I push them both into the housing they do not snap into place. The bearing just slides back out. What should I do?
Thank you

Stake it, Will!

Takes patience, and something to hold the lever safely,

(note mine in the previous attachment clamps upon the casting around the spring),

and a punch countersunk to accept the ball "just right".

....Cotten
PS: The cam follower ball can wear badly, and its a whole lot harder to replace.
So I put a tiny dot of silver-solder on it.

[lux]

Hi Cotton,
I have another question;
I have the new spring and ball bearing for the lifter lever. I like the length of the spring. The problem is that when I push them both into the housing they do not snap into place. The bearing just slides back out. What should I do?
Thank you

[T. Cotten]

I've resorted to a diamond tool, Will,

(When I couldn't flame one out.)

I wished you patience and good luck,.. and it worked!

....Cotten

[lux]

I looked it up, it seems that they have discontinued that product but, they refer you to a product called V530 which seems to be the same thing.

I tried something a little different to remove the ball bearing from the needle lift lever. I took a really small grinding stone with my drimmel tool. I gently touched the ball only and it spun around nicely removing thickness as it spun. I did this in several directions until the ball was small enough to just fall out. I'm not a great welder, so this seemed a smarter method for my skill set.

[T. Cotten]

Dude!!!! Everyone already knows your an artist, beret or not.
Thanks for the tip, I'll start a search for a product like that.

There's only one, Will,

TNEMEC's Omnithane 530;
I hope the formula hasn't changed...

...Cotten
PS: Please don't call me 'dude';
Sadly, I no longer fit the demographic.

[lux]

Dude!!!! Everyone already knows your an artist, beret or not.
Thanks for the tip, I'll start a search for a product like that.

[T. Cotten]

There's no cadmium in my "cad", Will!

Its a fuel-proof isocyanate urethane dressing that is rubbed on.

For nickel, I mix bronze powder into it.

Then I put on my artist's beret and make it 'authentic'.

....Cotten

[lux]

I like your cad plating for sure, it's what the original finish was.
When I was researching cad plating I saw a lot of warnings about toxicity. Thats why I chose nickel here at home. Maybe I should have done more research?

[T. Cotten]

My "cad" on the manifold and nuts was okay, Will?

Its easier, cheaper, and a lot faster.

....Cotten

[lux]

Thanks Cotton, I was thinking you would be the guy with the answer.
I'll give this a try.
Also I recieved my intake manifold for this bike back from you, it looks great and no leaks.
In our emails to each other (my real name is Will Anglin) you mentioned that cad plating the parts was a lot of labor. I didn't try cad because of toxic warnings but, I did nickel plate these parts. Your right, the cleaning was a lot of work.

[T. Cotten]

Repop levers are ugly, Lux!

I remove the detente ball by welding a rod to it, and pulling.
This preserves much of the original stake, and often a new spring and ball will snap in.

You will need to make a fixture to hold it to restake otherwise.

Beware the spring is unique.
Too long, and the ball will bind; too short, and you are back where you started.

Patience, and good luck!

....Cotten