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  • Stuck in a gear after rebuild

    A few years ago the motor was rebuilt by a fellow in Canada and was shipped back to me as a running engine. Not so. Had to reassemble and add the extras from the get go. I have tried over the years to work this out but to no avail. It is stuck in a gear and I cannot get it out of that gear. Even tried a short leverage bar on the selector lever on the transmission.. Any ides or has anyone else had this problem? I hate to remove the engine and drop the lower case if I don't have to. Clutch works fine so that is not he problem. Thanks for any help out there.

    Ben

  • #2
    morn n, cant sleep. this is kinda like a murder mystery. at first i thought ( Even tried a short leverage bar on the selector lever on the transmission )was the clue. but now i think the ( I hate to remove the engine and drop the lower case if I don't have to ) is the clue to what your working on. right? enjoy a good mystery. look n forward to more. gary
    gww57.com

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    • #3
      I've had a number of Hendersons, and an Indian 4 and the problem you describe clearly warrants pulling the motor, and removing the bottom pan. Those engines are too valuable to diagnose from the outside, and only by looking inside will you find the problem. It doesn't take more than a few hours to have the engine out, and you can come up with a way of turning it upside down so you can leave the top of the motor intact. . . . Now, getting it back in the frame will definitely take more than 2 hours

      Eric Smith
      AMCA #886

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      • #4
        stuck in gear after rebuild

        Originally posted by gww View Post
        morn n, cant sleep. this is kinda like a murder mystery. at first i thought ( Even tried a short leverage bar on the selector lever on the transmission )was the clue. but now i think the ( I hate to remove the engine and drop the lower case if I don't have to ) is the clue to what your working on. right? enjoy a good mystery. look n forward to more. gary
        Thanks, Gary.I believe that you are correct, but i have held up hope for a simple solution. Ben

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        • #5
          thanks , Exeric. All my helpers have passed. But the pulling is probably the only way to. Ben

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          • #6
            Ben, when I need help pulling a motor, all I hear are crickets If you do have to pull the motor all by yourself, just plan it out well, give yourself lots of room, and use a lot of furniture blankets to protect your frame, the motor, and your toes. I guess you could use a car engine hoist, or block, and tackle and lean the frame over. We humans are a creative bunch, just look at those pyramids
            Eric Smith
            AMCA #886

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            • #7
              Where are you located??
              D. A. Bagin #3166 AKA Panheadzz 440 48chief W/sidecar 57fl 57flh 58fl 66m-50 68flh 70xlh

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              • #8
                Ben, I just now thought of a friend's Henderson that had the same problem. In his case, the shifter fork, locked up on the shifter shaft. He rode the bike often, but only for a few minutes at a time, and being in Florida, the humidity caused condensation inside the motor. I was shocked when I saw the condition of the ferrous metal parts inside the motor, which were covered in a flakey rust. Perhaps you can take the shifter fork plugs out of the case, and see if there is any problem with the shaft, and fork.
                Eric Smith
                AMCA #886

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                • #9
                  two guys can pull the engine easy, hire a neighbor kid for a couple minutes - one you have some trust in. Good luck

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                  • #10
                    Howdy Ben,

                    Realize this sounds fairly obvious but have you removed and inspected your shifter detent to make sure the ball is not seized in its bore. I would also look down that access to view the condition of the shaft and the detent groove. Some folks ratchet the adjuster down when they begin having second gear issues ruining the track and occasional the ball. Though it will require removing the rear fender you can also view the selector fork through the access door on the back of the top case.
                    Cheerio,
                    Peter
                    #6510
                    1950 Vincent - A Red Rapide Experience

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                    • #11
                      Just reading the stream, Peter is correct on the detent, adjustment is usually good for 'one turn'. I shuffled through some pictures of my 41, might give you a better idea of what you might need to get into. Middle picture you can see the inspection hole on the left. This will give you access to the binding bolt on the fork.
                      Bottom keyed nuts are now twist wired and woven under the cross shaft....thought I should mention that before someone said "ah ha" look what.....any way good luck, call me if you need help. Listed
                      Sunflower Chapter...Larry Burke or private message. Good luck with your project....ps please do not lever the shift tower fork....


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                      Last edited by L Burke; 06-19-2016, 05:11 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks guys. Just getting back to the problem now. ( July 2016) Pulled the detent and the ball but still no results. Sooooooooooo guess I will start with taking the damn thing apart and see what it out of whack. I appreciate all the info given to me over this thread. When corrected I will post the results of the quest. Thanks again for all the help.

                        Ben
                        Portland, OR

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                        • #13
                          I hate to hear that Ben, but you know you will not have a moments peace of mind until you have it out, and get inside. I'm sure myself and many others will be anxiously waiting to find out what's going on in there.
                          Eric Smith
                          AMCA #886

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                          • #14
                            Thanks Eric. Pull the engine yesterday. Only took 6 hours and snapped the wiring on my electric hoist while moving the ramp around. Now to get the engine on a stand and take the pan off. By the way, I have a complete FACTORY boring bar and reamer set up for the 4 cylinder and a factory book for sale[. If you or somebody else is interested, contact me by my email.

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                            • #15
                              Well guys. Pulled the engine and removed the pan. Guess what? Every thing was working correctly with the pan removed. It did look like the slider was kinda stuck between the second gear and maybe jammed. I'll put it back together tomorrow and see what happens. Several years ago I bought out a person in California and included was several gasket sets for a 4 cyl. At least I won't have to order new gaskets. I will have a couple of sets left if anyone is interested. They have Indian stamped on them so they are original. Thanks again for the input from all of you. Now all I have to do is put it back together and install. That could be a chore. My electric hoist control pulled out and had to use a come-along to remove it. Have a new hoist now so get it set up and that should help. For those of you who inquire about the parts for sale, as soon as I can will take pictures and get them to you.

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