Valve Clearance Tappet Bolt Replace

[Skirted]

Heard an extra top end rattle on last ride. Checked valve clearances and found broken tappet adjust bolt. Got broken piece out of push rod. Anyone have a trick to replace without raising cylinder? Somehow need to compress valve stem 1/4" or so. Thanks

[tomfiii]

Just saw this recently posted somewhere. Person rasied lifter to highest position and placed a brace between collar and guide and then lowered lifter for access.

[Rubone]

This is a factory valve lifting tool. It allows you to compress the springs and get a pushrod out without top end removal.

DCP_3390.JPG

[exeric]

You never cease to amaze me, Robbie. Knowledge is everything.

[Skirted]

Thank you for replies. Robbie, No coffee yet this morning, and maybe it won't help anyway, but I am trying to understand how that tool is positioned to gain leverage in order to compress valve spring up into the cover.
Much appreciated!

[PaulCDF]

Robbie;
Can I trouble you for some measurements of this tool?
Is the "fork" tapered?

[ChiefTwoKicks]

I had the same thing happen... a broken tappet bolt (caused by the split keeper nut coming loose) about 10 years ago. I had forgotten the details of how I ended up repairing the broken
bolt. Thanks to Rubone, he mentioned the forked tool used to hold the valve open enough to replace the faulty bolt/nut.

I don't remember the exact factory tool (which I do not have), but I do remember using a wedge tool that looked like the one pictured above. I think an automotive front end wedge tool will work, but you must be sure to raise the push rod cover UP high enough for clearance (maybe even trim or grind a very small amount of threads off the bottom of the replacement tappet bolt. When I broke the tappet bolt on my engine, I don't remember raising the cylinder... but I do remember the clearance is an issue.

I also remember Bob Stark telling me the new nut/bolt must be matched threads, so when tightening the jamb nut, the tightened nut must be tightened firmly, but not too tight as to stress the threads on the new bolt. Ask some of the experts about this... too tight, and the jamb nut will fracture the threads leading to failure. I have discussed this with Mike (KIWI) Tomas as well.

Do your homework Jason, ask others about the importance of matched bolt/jamb nut tappet bolts. I also remember Kiwi telling me there were alot of inferior tappet bolt jamb nuts floating around the retail vendors (several years ago). I did my repair about 10 yrs ago, never a problem since.

Oh, one more thing... was the tappet bolt on the exhaust or the intake ?? front or rear cylinder ?? When was the last time you did a valve adjustment on that bike ??
Hope some of this resonates and leads to a positive solution as to why you had a failure. Good Luck

Roger C2K

[Skirted]

Hi Roger,
Thank you for the detail. It was the rear cylinder, exhaust. Last adjustment was probably around 2500 miles ago. The other 3 needed adjusted though none were more than .003 over spec.
The jamb nut was still intact and bolt was still in place. It broke at the joint between the push rod hex and jamb nut. Over tightened perhaps? Or maybe just fatigued.
Waiting for the new bolt to arrive at this time.

[FLFD7]

I've never done this on a Chief, but have on a Sport Scout. Take the cylinder head and gasket off. It sounds like the hex head of tappet broke off, so put something in there between the jam nut and the valve, and crank the engine over until the valve is all the way up. Put something between the cylinder and the bottom of the valve (I think I used tool bits). Now crank the engine until the pushrod is all the way down and there should be enough room to screw the old tappet out and put the new one in. Set it high, crank the valve back up, pull out your spacers, adjust the tappet, put the gasket and head back on.
That worked on the Scout, I never took Chief heads off while the engine was in the frame so don't know if it'll work in your case.

Joe

[tfburke3]

Cut a 2x4 slightly shorter than the retainer to floor distance with the bike standing up.Use the 2x4 as the fulcrum to lever the retainer up,no prying up off the cylinder.
Tom

[PaulCDF]

Okay my hands up

Valve Train Courtesy of Jerry Geer.jpeg

IF I understand this (and that is always in doubt)
We are talking about positioning our fork tool and levering up #7 and #8 compressing spring #6 on Mr. Geer's diagram; this will allow one to remove #12?

Maybe McMaster-Carr 5661N13 (?) $45.00

[Skirted]

Hi Paul, that fork won't work. The bottom of valve spring collar and stem is flush with the bottom of cover in its full up position so whatever tool is used needs to be something that will go up into the ID of cover, but not be in the way when installing the new bolt. I am confident piecing together info above I can make a tool to get it done. Hoping to get new part before weekend.

[PaulCDF]

Please let me know what you fabricate.

[pisten-bully]

...as Joe mentioned in post #9 above. With the head off rotate the engine until you see maximum valve lift of the valve head off the cylinder deck (not the stem end of the valve) measure that space between the bottom of the valve head and the cylinder deck, then use a pickle fork, or fabricate something out of wood, to slide under the valve head so that it won't close, then rotate the engine until the tappet is fully at the bottom and then you should have sufficient clearance. Probably important to support that valve head on both sides, or all the way around, so that you don't risk bending it!

[dukekleman]

If your going to remove the cylinder head and hold the valve open, as some have mentioned, I'd recommend using a short piece of 1/4" - 3/8" recoil rope. We've done it for years with good success. I've even fed the rope in through the spark plug hole without removing the cylinder head and a little luck...

Otherwise just order the Harley Davidson service tool
Colony part number 3056-1 or V Twin part number 3056-1T
that Robbie has shown in an image early on in this post.

Duke