Anyone ever removed the manifold nipple from the cylinder on a 47? Did it go well? Stan
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Originally posted by stan View PostAnyone ever removed the manifold nipple from the cylinder on a 47? Did it go well? Stan
But its still surgery;
Please review http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html
Beware nipple rivet holes are often distorted, tearing threads in the head if you back them out.
Good luck!
....CottenAttached FilesLast edited by T. Cotten; 10-10-2019, 11:03 AM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Recently purchased a NIB set of Eastern made in India cylinders and was told the the nipple threads are metric and nipples need replaced? Was also told a method of removing was welding a piece of hex stock in bore to turn out with wrench? As a young man I removed a set with a chisel to replace with Panhead O-ring style but that is another story. When these were built there wasn't Loctite thread locker hence the use of stakes/ rivets so question if they're necessary if green or red Loctite is used? Sorry to raise more questions but in reply to OP yes they are made to come out, just need a plan
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Originally posted by Bubbalowe View PostRecently purchased a NIB set of Eastern made in India cylinders and was told the the nipple threads are metric and nipples need replaced? Was also told a method of removing was welding a piece of hex stock in bore to turn out with wrench? As a young man I removed a set with a chisel to replace with Panhead O-ring style but that is another story. When these were built there wasn't Loctite thread locker hence the use of stakes/ rivets so question if they're necessary if green or red Loctite is used? Sorry to raise more questions but in reply to OP yes they are made to come out, just need a plan
You was damm lucky; Hundreds of Pans weren't. (Colony kits were complicit.)
No Loctites that taste like saccharin withstand P4gas. I found out the hardway.
The rivet was to retain the nipple if a crusty nut grabbed it. Otherwise the cylinderhead would have to be removed to remove the manifold.
Might as well get the right tool for the job,... Because you will need it to put in a fresh one.
....Cotten
PS: Chiefs did use a sealer unknown; Perhaps white lead?Attached FilesLast edited by T. Cotten; 10-10-2019, 11:06 AM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Originally posted by Bubbalowe View PostRecently purchased a NIB set of Eastern made in India cylinders and was told the the nipple threads are metric and nipples need replaced? Was also told a method of removing was welding a piece of hex stock in bore to turn out with wrench? As a young man I removed a set with a chisel to replace with Panhead O-ring style but that is another story. When these were built there wasn't Loctite thread locker hence the use of stakes/ rivets so question if they're necessary if green or red Loctite is used? Sorry to raise more questions but in reply to OP yes they are made to come out, just need a plan
Tom
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Originally posted by tfburke3 View PostI had read that the nipples were over sized slightly on the thread od and they had made oversize nuts to fit.I have seen them on ebay with nuts included.
Tom
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Originally posted by Bubbalowe View PostNot true, work fine. Had off multiple times in last 30+ years and always soft and pliable. High heat O rings are available but my experience aren't needed.
Ironhead sportsters could cook them regularly.
Must have been a loose nut on the handlebars.
....CottenAttached FilesLast edited by T. Cotten; 10-12-2019, 11:24 AM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Interesting posts about removing the rivet on the intake nipple. I have a similar problem, but on a different application. When I'm not working on my FL, I putter around with a 1964 Ducati 100cc 2 stroke single cylinder. I'm trying to properly install the air cleaner. The PO of the bike directly mounted the air cleaner to the carb intake (you can see it in the first picture). It looks good, but it interferes with the tool box cover. Originally, the air cleaner had a 30 degree aluminum elbow between it and the carb intake. It tilted the air cleaner down enough so that you could open the silver tool box cover.
I managed to find an old air cleaner on Ebay with the 30 degree elbow, but the elbow won't screw out of the old air cleaner because someone drilled a hole through the threads. Instead of a rivet, it looks like they might have put some sort of set screw in it (there's nothing in the hole now).
The posts about replacing the Indian manifold nipples advise to cut the old nipple to get it out and not damage the cylinder threads. However, given the scarcity of parts, I don't want to damage the Ebay air cleaner by cutting it off the elbow. Anyone have any ideas on how to unscrew the aluminum elbow without damaging the threads or destroying the steel air cleaner?
Thanks!
John
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Typically, John,..
Its HDs that need the cut-n-crush method, particularly Pans.
(Chiefs rarely need replacement, and Sport Scouts only when too long of a headbolt has already started to crush the nipple.)
Cast iron cylinderheads suffer much less, if they haven't been over-torqued upon the rivet.
I have no clue about your Duc, but heat and Kroil would be the first step.
Sometimes a sealer or adhesive has to be cooked to release it.
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 11-18-2019, 10:09 AM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Sorry for the misunderstanding on the HD vs Chief cut-n-crush method. I learn something new each day.
Thanks for the advice about the heat and Kroil. I had started to try heat and PB blaster, but things weren't moving so before I applied max force, I decided to seek the wisdom here. I'll go back and try it again and this time add a little more force.
The Duc, brings back memories of the first bike I owned, but I have a 48 Chief, 82 FLH, and a 47 UL in a million pieces (someday it will come together). I greatly appreciate everyone's efforts to post here and help preserve/pass along the many years of knowledge and lessons learned.
John
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