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Wet sumping question/hard to kick

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  • #46
    I beleive if you wanted to make some custom seal for the alum. pump,it would be best made for the pump shaft,not the check valve.I thought about a seal held by the pump cover screws but its all toghether now.
    If your setup was a 48 pump Im pretty sure you would see the shaft leak,not just the ball check.
    Tom

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    • #47
      Yeah, I think I will take the pump out and inspect and replace the check ball and spring. I'll see what I see.

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      • #48
        Originally posted by Lipdog View Post
        Yeah, I think I will take the pump out and inspect and replace the check ball and spring. I'll see what I see.
        If you want to see whats going on after you remove the pump put it in a vise with gasket and spring and ball.Then attach the oil feed line and it fill it with 20w or warm 50wt.Watch to see where the oil goes.Your check ball and spring are most likely fine.
        Tom

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        • #49
          Don't forget a big drip pan, Tom!

          Hard to get under the vise sometimes...

          ....Cotten
          Last edited by T. Cotten; 09-20-2019, 03:24 PM.
          AMCA #776
          Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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          • #50
            I thought an Indian owner would never notice a little extra oil on the floor.
            Tom

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            • #51
              Originally posted by tfburke3 View Post
              I thought an Indian owner would never notice a little extra oil on the floor.
              Tom
              I don't want to soak my rugs, Tom!

              (I tend to drop things...)

              ...Cotten
              AMCA #776
              Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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              • #52
                I took my pump apart, reseated the check ball, and put in a new check ball and spring. I also changed out the pinion shaft seal to Kiwi's, which looks really nice. We'll see if this helps the wet sumpling issue.

                But in the meantime, I have a question. At idle, I do get oil out of the return tube in the tank. It flows unevenly, sort of pausing for a second or two, and then flowing. The flow looks ok, but not steady or solid. It flows better when I rev it. Is this normal, and if not, can someone please describe what the flow should look like?

                Thanks!

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                • #53
                  Thats pretty much it.That show its circulating. its getting supply and returning.After a short,say ten mile ride the tank should be warm to hot.If you drain the sump after the ride and get about a half cup you have no running issues.The new seal will have no effect on your standing drain down problem.
                  Btw it seems you took your pump housing apart.The pump is inside the housing.Did you look at gears and gear case surfaces with special attention to how loose the pump shaft fits in the pump cover?
                  Have fun
                  Tom
                  Last edited by tfburke3; 10-12-2019, 04:15 PM.

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                  • #54
                    The gears don't look new but they don't look too bad either. The pump shaft fits tightly in the cover. One thing I did notice is that the (copper) check ball spring seemed very weak and barely extended beyond the face of the housing. I replaced it with a new one, which seemed much stronger. Between that and reseating the ball, hopefully I get less wet sumping. Some photos of the pump are below. Please let me know if you see anything that looks off.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #55
                      Pic # 4 not looking to good,but sounds like pump is working.Pic #3 of housing looks good.cant really tell about center case with gears in place.The new spring ,ball and re-seating may help wet sumping from storage..
                      Tom

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by tfburke3 View Post
                        Pic # 4 not looking to good,but sounds like pump is working.Pic #3 of housing looks good.cant really tell about center case with gears in place.The new spring ,ball and re-seating may help wet sumping from storage..
                        Tom
                        "not looking to good" is being kind to something needing replaced.

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                        • #57
                          I'll see if the wet sumping is better. If it is, would you recommend replacing just the internal pump assembly, or the whole thing?

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by Lipdog View Post
                            I'll see if the wet sumping is better. If it is, would you recommend replacing just the internal pump assembly, or the whole thing?
                            The housing pump surface looks good,but like bubbalowe said the top cover needs replacing.Then inspect the shafts,keys and middle case.Not to hard and it seems like you are up to it,but Im not sure about availability. Most complete pumps on ebay dont show the internals so a reputable rebuilder may be the best choice.
                            Tom

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                            • #59
                              Jerry Greer sells the internal pump assembly as well as the whole pump. Others sell the entire pump. Mike at Kiwi sells a pump that he tests, which is a good thing.

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                              • #60
                                On the Kiwi Indian website Mike has a Tech video on oil pump timing. If I recall correctly I believe he shows a check ball spring that protrudes a bit more than picture #5.

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