1948 chief clutch or transmission trouble?

[Bugzy]

Well my test ride went off without a hitch,I have more questions.......anyone care to comment,please do. How much work is involved in changing the cork oil seal washer behind motor sprocket?My test ride today76 miles yielded results that proved the theory of motor sucking primary/trans fluid . I returned home and the oil tank breather tube was puking everything that was above the top of the tube. What tools are needed to change seal? Who has them for sale? Am I calling it by its proper name? Does any one think I may have a crankcase breather problem? Should I remove the primary case breather and install the plug? When does that primary breather need to be used? What was the first year/model to use one of them? It was on the bike when I bought it. Also how do you check/tighten the cylinder base nuts? Also when I took bike on test ride, I needed to adjust the clutch, what does one do when the locknut on the clutch rod from pedal run out of adjustment against the clevis for attatching to the release rod worm lever? Do I simply flip the release worm lever and shoot for the 2o'clock position? Thank you Phil,Red Fred, and Jack. Very big thanks,again...........Bugzy

[redfred84]

Hey Bugzy & Phil,
Thanks to the Club, we can help each other, and support our passions. The more organized and 'together" our Club is, the better, especially in the up-coming policital battles with oil and US politics mounting. Anyway, Clutch adjustments are straight forward in the manuals, especially the military manuals. The clutch worm lever at the primary is cut at a multi faceted pattern, which lends itself to be rotated a "notch", or "flat", PLUS being fliped, and rotated a half "notch or flip". This is considered a Major adjustment.
You seem to be pretty well versed in taking the primary apart and putting it back together again (a skilled trait). If so, I would recommend doing it once more. This time, making that you have the correct lock washer on your clutch basket, correct gap on your cluster end play, and counter shaft slop. Also the correct spiral bushing & seal on your gen drive. Since you've already been here before, I take it that you are familiar with the removal of your engine sprocket? It takes a "hammer" on the outter edge to "pop" is loose from the drive pin taper. You may need new folding lock washers for all these points (something I like to keep in stock). You can then acquire a new cork seal at the engine srkt (what year engine are we dealing with here?), and shave it for the proper clearance.
Make sure and use the proper folding lock washers at the clutch basket & lock tite.
If you drop the cluster, be sure and install a new gasket at the right side of the counter shaft.
Fun with old junk, RF.

[Bugzy]

Red Fred,I am gonna follow all of your suggestions. Thanks much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I love this club! My chief is a 1948,by the way. What is the correct gap on cluster end play? And what is proper counter shaft slop? Is blue[medium strength] loctite the one to use? I think the closest chapter of this club is the sunshine chapter, that is over 2 hours away,thats kinda far for me to think I could be any kind of regular at the meetings,but I will consider making a showing. I am gonna pick up a military manual,too. Thank you for the lesson on clutch adjustment,you are too kool! I appreciate the kind words of encouragement on removing +replacing the primary,thanks! I believe I have the correct spiral bushing[Not a big fan of the roller bearing in this application] from greer,with the improved addition of a seal[shorter bushing] In answer to the question on the removal of the motor sprocket,I used a puller last time, I think I will try your suggestion,next time,first. Would you change the affected woodruff keys in question? When you say "shave the cork seal for proper clearance" is that side or face?,or will I see when I get in there? Thanks, again Bugzy

[fillibuster]

quote: "[Not a big fan of the roller bearing in this application]"

I think I have 22 years on my needle-roller plus seal on gen-drive shaft.
Press that cork into the sprocket, then shave it off "just proud" of the sprocket face. ... try to pronounce that "proewd", almost like "prude".
The 2/8" drill bit Fred suggested is for the end play in clutch basket after the snap ring is in. I use a 1/8" welding rod because I can with a pliers bend it into a short "L".
Pliers, hammers (clubs), crow bars, black tape, whatever it takes!
As to your valve clearances, a good chief doesn't have to make noise other than it's bark. Clatter means valve gear is in need of attention. A pronounced knock can mean a piston is hitting the head, which means your crank pin is terribly worn, and you are at risk of a fly-apart. Take nothing for granted, keep your eyes and ears open, and try to feel it. You'll know the rewards. Great for the soul!

[redfred84]

I concure with Phil, especially on the cork seal. Install it dry, then do figure 8s on some flat mounted sand paper to shave the cork, so that it's just proud of the engine sproket. Then remove, clean up, and coat it with light grease, and some drope of 50wt oil to soak in before re-installing. If the cork is too proud, it produces way too much drag on the engine. The washer it rubs against should be spotless also.
I like the Krank Vent, as researced & developed by Geoff Ringle of Old Iron, but now sold out and distributed by Jerry Greer. Careful as some of the early Greer gen. drive bushing had the spiral machined the opposite direction, in essence, directing the oil OUT of the primary!
HTH, RF.

[Bugzy]

Well Thanks again ..............you guys are a great help!!!!!!!!!!!How long can I ride my 1948 chief sucking primary/trans. fluid [same 50 wt as motor] into the oil in the motor before I do any damage? How do you hold the valve covers up to adjust the valves? I used black elictrical tape.What is the mix ratio of 2 cycle oil to gas,as I have been advised to put some in my fuel when I fill up,or marvel mystery oil? Also I met a guy today with a 1947 chief lower end from virginia,with title what should I offer him for it? I am in fla. Does anyone know if I can register it,I was under the impression that Indian registered to the frame #'s. I believe my "48" has non matching #'s,how do I do it? Get a frame with title? In advance I would like to thank anyone with any info,oh by the way............Red Fred,what does HTH mean at the end of your last post? See you in New Smyrna this weekend. Peace Bugzy