New 1965 Sporty xlch in the garage and the magneto is the issue....

[Flathead80]

Hi, well I have kicked a few Sportsters And before I did real damage I tried this.
I started priming the carb by choking it with a couple of kicks while pushing down on the kill button then
Released the kill button with the choke a couple of clicks open then kicked it and they started.
If I didn’t prime kick it first it would only give a pop every other kick.
It also works on my Flathead 80” and my 74” Knucklehead

[FNG1]

My 67 had a fixed base no retard mag. The tractors and Wisconsins have an impulse coupler to spin the mag fast while cranking. If you inch right up on compression the mag may not spin enough before the points open to make a spark. An adjustable base and a kicking technique may help you out.

[KNUCK]

Got the Mag fixed and the S&S "L" rebuilt but won't start, will try to run with a shot of starter fluid. I think that carb is the issue. Maybe try the idea Flathead 80 mentioned, as I just read his post again.

[Chris Haynes]

Make sure you are using copper plug wires. Not carbon filament.

[kitabel]

My history of condenser failure includes everything (new Fairbanks, new aftermarket, believed to be good used) except "just removed from a running bike" and the now $$$ Mallory external brass nail bucket.

[T. Cotten]

I see Cotton and I joined the AMCA Forum the same month in 2001. That is a long time ago! Charter members?

Actually, Knuck,...

I joined years earlier, but a forum update froze the "Cotten" name, and I had to add T.

Are you scared of bubble-testing?

....Cotten

[chuckthebeatertruck]

Got the Mag fixed and the S&S "L" rebuilt but won't start, will try to run with a shot of starter fluid. I think that carb is the issue. Maybe try the idea Flathead 80 mentioned, as I just read his post again.

I can help you with the S&S L series. Relatively few people know squat about them -- but the long story made short is that they are VERY sensitive to float height. But, before we get to that, I need some information to give you some decent information.

First, what is the actual marking on the carburetor?

Second, is the float bowl a top or a bottom feed?

Third, if it is a top feed, does it have a brass float?

Fourth, what is the main and the pilot jet numbers?

Fifth, does it have it's original choke plate?

Sixth, has the throttle shaft been rebushed?


I've got a soft spot for L series carbs; GBL.jpghere's a photo of a GBL I was working on recently sitting on my kitchen table . . .