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Tillotson carb

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  • #16
    So what I hear you saying is to NOT unbolt and throw as far as you can into the forest/field/desert. Good thing I still have mine on the shelf.
    I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".

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    • #17
      Does anyone know a person who is restoring Tillotson HD carbs? I just finished a restoration on a 1970 Sportster with an HD1C which needs attention. I know repair kits are available but it probably would be a good idea to send the carb out. Never worked on one of these before.
      Richard
      Richard Spagnolli
      AMCA #6153

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      • #18
        Richard, if you can't find anyone I would just do it yourself. Make sure all the passages are clean and shafts fit the body correctly. Hopefully you can find a good accelerator pump and boot. The manual is pretty explicit on how they work. I think there is a shop dope update about an upgraded diaphragm cover. But with yours being a '70, the last year or so, it probably has that cover already.
        Bob Rice #6738

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        • #19
          Thanks Bob. Good advice. There are a few good U Tube videos on Tillotson rebuilds.
          Richard
          Richard Spagnolli
          AMCA #6153

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          • #20
            Originally posted by BigLakeBob View Post
            I have been running a Tillotson now for about 4 years and love it. Best carb I've had on the '69. Gas mileage is great 45 or so per gal, alot better than a Bendix at about 25mpg.
            One of the first things I did when I got this '69 was to take off the Tillotson and put on a Bendix and I gotta say I've been disappointed with the crappy mileage. You guys have inspired me to give the Tilly another try. Now I just have to find where I put that push throttle and get all these parts flying in formation again.
            I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".

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            • #21
              I am not, and never was a fan of the Bendix carburetor. I worked at a Harley dealership in 1972 when they were first installed by the Factory and they performed poorly right from the start. I remember several visits by the Factory Rep. who offered advice as to how to make them right - none really worked very well. For years afterward while employed at an independent Harley shop I saw no significant developments in that carburetor to change my mind. I'm sure others may disagree, but even to this day, I see the Bendix as a compromise' carburetor (at best) and would certainly stay with the Tillotson, provided that you can find the necessary parts and learn about the minor idiosyncrasies of the unit. I'm staying with the Tillotson on my 1970 XLCH.
              Last edited by billpedalino; 12-20-2015, 07:57 AM.
              Bill Pedalino
              Huntington, New York
              AMCA 6755

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              • #22
                Thanks for the photos of home made Tilly Tickler

                Originally posted by Grumpa View Post
                One of the first things I did when I got this '69 was to take off the Tillotson and put on a Bendix and I gotta say I've been disappointed with the crappy mileage. You guys have inspired me to give the Tilly another try. Now I just have to find where I put that push throttle and get all these parts flying in formation again.
                Now I can start my Sportie same way I start all my English bikes, except push up instead of down to flood. For the guy looking for someone to rebuild his Tillotson (Richard): I tried it myself using a rebuild kit (avail from J&P or V-Twin Mfg - The rebuild kits are not cheap and contain stuff you don't need and omit stuff you may need and the rubber boot for the accelerator pump was poorly formed) But the reasons it failed was that despite the exploded diagram I had to work with I somehow did not notice a few tiny parts were absent. Duh! I will blame it on my aged eyesight. I then turned it over to a guy in town of Niagara. He converted the body from an A (1966) to a D (1969) and spent many weeks and a lot of research and phoning and driving to get all the wee parts. He only charged me for 1/4 of the time and $ he spent but it still came to over $1000 including a new C.B. set (turns out previous owner had put a car one in) and new HT leads. Runs great now though, and starting is easy using the tickler technique and thanks to the images from BigLakeBob I can get one made locally and not have to carry around a plastic stick or bent Q tip (stripped of cotton). I found when cold two quick pokes (you can heard it gurgle) floods the carb (a magazine article from back in the day says flooding is the trick to use) A rebuild is not hard, just don't make the same expensive mistake I did, although this way I have the much better D than the old A. (The previous owner must have been into it ages ago and forgot to put some parts back in or lost them and could not get replacements up in Alaska. Maybe the non-starting was why he sold it.) PS vent line was always connected, but pinched a bit. I will re-do.

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                • #23
                  Okay I have to at this point repent of all my anti-Tillotson sins. Put it back on and it started right up (almost like it was supposed to go there). Still gotta dial it in but so far so good.IMG_0005.jpg
                  Last edited by Grumpa; 01-05-2016, 05:44 AM. Reason: Picture file didn't load
                  I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".

                  Comment

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