Tillotson carb

[Grumpa]

Okay I have to at this point repent of all my anti-Tillotson sins. Put it back on and it started right up (almost like it was supposed to go there). Still gotta dial it in but so far so good.IMG_0005.jpg

[Randy M]

Thanks for the photos of home made Tilly Tickler

One of the first things I did when I got this '69 was to take off the Tillotson and put on a Bendix and I gotta say I've been disappointed with the crappy mileage. You guys have inspired me to give the Tilly another try. Now I just have to find where I put that push throttle and get all these parts flying in formation again.

Now I can start my Sportie same way I start all my English bikes, except push up instead of down to flood. For the guy looking for someone to rebuild his Tillotson (Richard): I tried it myself using a rebuild kit (avail from J&P or V-Twin Mfg - The rebuild kits are not cheap and contain stuff you don't need and omit stuff you may need and the rubber boot for the accelerator pump was poorly formed) But the reasons it failed was that despite the exploded diagram I had to work with I somehow did not notice a few tiny parts were absent. Duh! I will blame it on my aged eyesight. I then turned it over to a guy in town of Niagara. He converted the body from an A (1966) to a D (1969) and spent many weeks and a lot of research and phoning and driving to get all the wee parts. He only charged me for 1/4 of the time and $ he spent but it still came to over $1000 including a new C.B. set (turns out previous owner had put a car one in) and new HT leads. Runs great now though, and starting is easy using the tickler technique and thanks to the images from BigLakeBob I can get one made locally and not have to carry around a plastic stick or bent Q tip (stripped of cotton). I found when cold two quick pokes (you can heard it gurgle) floods the carb (a magazine article from back in the day says flooding is the trick to use) A rebuild is not hard, just don't make the same expensive mistake I did, although this way I have the much better D than the old A. (The previous owner must have been into it ages ago and forgot to put some parts back in or lost them and could not get replacements up in Alaska. Maybe the non-starting was why he sold it.) PS vent line was always connected, but pinched a bit. I will re-do.

[billpedalino]

I am not, and never was a fan of the Bendix carburetor. I worked at a Harley dealership in 1972 when they were first installed by the Factory and they performed poorly right from the start. I remember several visits by the Factory Rep. who offered advice as to how to make them right - none really worked very well. For years afterward while employed at an independent Harley shop I saw no significant developments in that carburetor to change my mind. I'm sure others may disagree, but even to this day, I see the Bendix as a compromise' carburetor (at best) and would certainly stay with the Tillotson, provided that you can find the necessary parts and learn about the minor idiosyncrasies of the unit. I'm staying with the Tillotson on my 1970 XLCH.

[Grumpa]

I have been running a Tillotson now for about 4 years and love it. Best carb I've had on the '69. Gas mileage is great 45 or so per gal, alot better than a Bendix at about 25mpg.

One of the first things I did when I got this '69 was to take off the Tillotson and put on a Bendix and I gotta say I've been disappointed with the crappy mileage. You guys have inspired me to give the Tilly another try. Now I just have to find where I put that push throttle and get all these parts flying in formation again.

[Spag]

Thanks Bob. Good advice. There are a few good U Tube videos on Tillotson rebuilds.
Richard

[BigLakeBob]

Richard, if you can't find anyone I would just do it yourself. Make sure all the passages are clean and shafts fit the body correctly. Hopefully you can find a good accelerator pump and boot. The manual is pretty explicit on how they work. I think there is a shop dope update about an upgraded diaphragm cover. But with yours being a '70, the last year or so, it probably has that cover already.

[Spag]

Does anyone know a person who is restoring Tillotson HD carbs? I just finished a restoration on a 1970 Sportster with an HD1C which needs attention. I know repair kits are available but it probably would be a good idea to send the carb out. Never worked on one of these before.
Richard

[Grumpa]

So what I hear you saying is to NOT unbolt and throw as far as you can into the forest/field/desert. Good thing I still have mine on the shelf.

[BigLakeBob]

I have been running a Tillotson now for about 4 years and love it. Best carb I've had on the '69. Gas mileage is great 45 or so per gal, alot better than a Bendix at about 25mpg. Robbie had made the statement before (after I made the below tickler) that they weren't really needed and the pump will do the same. I agree. I also feel you know with the pump how much gas you are giving it, one squirt, two, etc., where with the tickler it is hard to judge how much you are giving it when depressing the diaphragm. I usually use the pump when cold, and depending on how long the bike sits (after warm-if you stop somewhere) I will use the tickler. Just what I do, same as everyones procedure they do when starting a warm bike, we all may do something a little different.

[Rubone]

Randy,
You should be able to start it despite no tickler. The accelerator pump will prime it. You do have the vent line connected, right?

[D.A.Bagin]

If you look from underneath the carb there is a small hole in the center of the plastic cover. I use a plastic tube from a wd40 can and pump it until I feel resistance. You will feel the diaphragm move up and down and may even hear squishing sounds. Pump it a bit and kick away.

[Randy M]

Bill and Chris, Thanks for the tip on priming the carb. Just tried it on my 68 that has been sitting since Sept. and it worked great. Started right up and its 38 degrees here. Other times I'd be cranking for 10 min. By the way, a plastic tube from a w-d40 can works great.

Hi guys. This thread is exactly what I need. Exactly where and how far in do you poke the paperclip or plastic tube? I have been kicking for months on a '66 Sportster with Tillotson that I paid lot of $ to have rebuilt and still no luck. The mechanic says he can always start it but he is a lot heavier than me and even he says you need to kick it about 8 times. He warned me not to mess with the idle or mid range adjusters. (Bike runs fine once started). If anyone comes across one of those later tickler kits I will buy it.

[D.A.Bagin]

Bill and Chris, Thanks for the tip on priming the carb. Just tried it on my 68 that has been sitting since Sept. and it worked great. Started right up and its 38 degrees here. Other times I'd be cranking for 10 min. By the way, a plastic tube from a w-d40 can works great.

[Lloyd]

Guys I have several of these carbs for parts or rebuild. Send me a PM if I can help. Lloyd

[BigLakeBob]

Thanks for the info Bill. I will keep looking. Talked to parts guy at Jim's in Mendon, OH and he is trying to find some acceletator pumps also. I may try to disassemble the only one I have and make a new leather cup, but I would still be lacking the rubber cover boot, I need to look again but I think one from a Bendix is too large. Quickly visited the Tillitson website and a few distributors but could only find parts for small engines. Bob#6738