Tillotson carb

[BigLakeBob]

I have had a 69FL for a long time and never the correct carb. Can I get input from people who have run a Tillotson carb and their experiences? I have several bodies. Which is correct for my year HD101A, HD2D, HD1D ? I also purchased a rebuild kit from V-Twin(diaphragm, gasket and springs) but they were out of stock on accelerator pumps, does anyone know where I can purchase one? I had spoke to Jim Dingess about 10 years ago and if I remember correctly he bought a 69 new and rode across country and had to stop at a dealer and drill something larger in the body?? Can't quite remember what he told me. Anybody familiar with a problem like this? Thanks Bob #6738

[Chris Haynes]

A's, B's, and C's had problems. The D was supposedly the cure all. H-D sold a rebuild kit that would convert any letter to a D. As my foggy memory serves the D was in service in 1969.

[billpedalino]

A lot of guys hated this carburator, but once I learned how to live with them, I developed a long-standing fondness for them. The 'D' was the latest revision and was in service in 1969. I have run these carbs (all series) for may years on Sportsters and I've always had very good luck rebuilding them. You just have to be very thorough and precise during the rebuild and when running them, you must resist the urge to fiddle with the low speed/ Idle wheel. Set it up and leave it alone. These carbs are also very sensitive to dirt, so run a filter. Make sure that your vent line (running up through the gast tank to the fill spigot) is clear as well.

Keep your eyes pealed on EBay (ulgh !!) as I've seen parts, including accelerator pumps show up there occasionally. You may try to epand your old accelerator pump by soaking it in armoral for a few days. It doesn't take a lot of side pressure between the pump leather and the plastic cylinder to spray the fuel stream into the carb body.

Occasionally they do have a problem with priming which makes starting very difficult (thus the bad reputation). Many a Sportster kicker gear has been worn out as a result of this problem. If this happens, gently poke the steel button on the diaphrage located inside the in the bottom center hole of the white plastic diaphragm cover for about 1 second (only). That will allow gas to flow into the opening. There used to be an aftemarket butto for this, but I haven't seen one for many years.

[Chris Haynes]

I used to keep a paper clip on the top end oil line for "tickling" the diaphragm.

[billpedalino]

Ahh yes - those 'good' old days when we young ones had to be mechanics just to get our choppers started......

[Lloyd]

How do you tell if you have a A, B, C, or D? Thanks Lloyd

[Rubone]

Lloyd,
The number is stamped on the mounting flange. The letter is part of the number and tells you what you have.
Robbie

[billpedalino]

By the way, the rebuild kit that V-Twin has only contains the bare essentials. There are small parts such as the inlet needle/seat subassemblies and check valve (balls) hidden behind some of those welch plugs located inside the diaphragm area on the bottom of the body. These parts are not included in the current rebuild kits that I have seen. While finding these parts may be difficult, I would at least try to licate the correct sized welch plugs so you can remove the existing ones and remove/clean/check these parts and cavities for proper operation. ANother problem is bent brass choak flaps located in the front of the main body bore, which become bent as a result of backfiring through the carb. If bent, these must be straightened if they're not cracked from fatigue, or replaced.

We used to supply all of this stuff at Eastern, but I don't know if he still sells these parts to Ted and others. While he (Gil) is a wholesale operation only and does not sell directly to individuals, you might try calling them and asking if they still carry these parts. If they do you can inquire about which of his wholesale customers you may purchase them. Eastern is in North Carolina 803 284 3304. Ask for Jeffery (his son) or Carol.

Good Luck...

[BigLakeBob]

Thanks for the info Bill. I will keep looking. Talked to parts guy at Jim's in Mendon, OH and he is trying to find some acceletator pumps also. I may try to disassemble the only one I have and make a new leather cup, but I would still be lacking the rubber cover boot, I need to look again but I think one from a Bendix is too large. Quickly visited the Tillitson website and a few distributors but could only find parts for small engines. Bob#6738

[Lloyd]

Guys I have several of these carbs for parts or rebuild. Send me a PM if I can help. Lloyd

[D.A.Bagin]

Bill and Chris, Thanks for the tip on priming the carb. Just tried it on my 68 that has been sitting since Sept. and it worked great. Started right up and its 38 degrees here. Other times I'd be cranking for 10 min. By the way, a plastic tube from a w-d40 can works great.

[Randy M]

Bill and Chris, Thanks for the tip on priming the carb. Just tried it on my 68 that has been sitting since Sept. and it worked great. Started right up and its 38 degrees here. Other times I'd be cranking for 10 min. By the way, a plastic tube from a w-d40 can works great.

Hi guys. This thread is exactly what I need. Exactly where and how far in do you poke the paperclip or plastic tube? I have been kicking for months on a '66 Sportster with Tillotson that I paid lot of $ to have rebuilt and still no luck. The mechanic says he can always start it but he is a lot heavier than me and even he says you need to kick it about 8 times. He warned me not to mess with the idle or mid range adjusters. (Bike runs fine once started). If anyone comes across one of those later tickler kits I will buy it.

[D.A.Bagin]

If you look from underneath the carb there is a small hole in the center of the plastic cover. I use a plastic tube from a wd40 can and pump it until I feel resistance. You will feel the diaphragm move up and down and may even hear squishing sounds. Pump it a bit and kick away.

[Rubone]

Randy,
You should be able to start it despite no tickler. The accelerator pump will prime it. You do have the vent line connected, right?

[BigLakeBob]

I have been running a Tillotson now for about 4 years and love it. Best carb I've had on the '69. Gas mileage is great 45 or so per gal, alot better than a Bendix at about 25mpg. Robbie had made the statement before (after I made the below tickler) that they weren't really needed and the pump will do the same. I agree. I also feel you know with the pump how much gas you are giving it, one squirt, two, etc., where with the tickler it is hard to judge how much you are giving it when depressing the diaphragm. I usually use the pump when cold, and depending on how long the bike sits (after warm-if you stop somewhere) I will use the tickler. Just what I do, same as everyones procedure they do when starting a warm bike, we all may do something a little different.