1966 shovelhead

[murph]

So I had an issue with the bendix drive taking a dump on a 66 shovelhead and no issue with the clutch to my understanding (this is a friends bike I'm working on). When I disassembled to replace the bendix drive I discovered that the basket had only 3 steel plates with the anti rattle ball bearings distorted as can be and 3-1/2 fiber plates. Meaning the last fiber plate against the pressure plate was bare metal on the side which touches the pressure plate. My parts book shows 4 steel and 5 fibers. Can anyone confirm the amount? My book is for numerous years and I'd like to be clear if someone can give me the count. Also can anyone give me a replacement manufacturer suggestion? Thanks Murph

[joe fxs fxr]

There are 4 steels and 5 fibers in both of my later shovels. I used Alto red in my 79 with an isolated primary and ATF. I also used steel plates without the balls. My 82 with stock oiling has green plates installed by the previous owner, I think they are the kevlar ones?

[duffeycycles]

I don't isolate,I use VTwin # 40-0741 inline screen filter for return to engine oil.I hate Kevlar because of the sticky release issues they can have.Red Alto are better than kevlar

[murph]

Thanks guys, I'll see what I can do. Any rhime or reason there was a half a plate and they were short one each? I never seen that before.

[Rubone]

Previous to the demise of the mousetrap all H-D clutches, including '66 model year used a 3-1/2 plate clutch all the way back to 1941. The springs are also much stiffer than the later '68 up type. Does the bike have a mousetrap or hand shift? That clutch is fine with either.

[murph]

Previous to the demise of the mousetrap all H-D clutches, including '66 model year used a 3-1/2 plate clutch all the way back to 1941. The springs are also much stiffer than the later '68 up type. Does the bike have a mousetrap or hand shift? That clutch is fine with either.

It has a mouse trap, hand clutch lever, foot shift. So what's the recommendation with the order 3 steel and 3-1/2 fibers again?

[Rubone]

You can use either 4 steel and 5 friction or 3 steel and 3-1/2 friction, but I would recommend keeping the stiff springs to make the mousetrap work correctly, the soft springs have trouble overcoming the mousetrap tension spring.

[murph]

You can use either 4 steel and 5 friction or 3 steel and 3-1/2 friction, but I would recommend keeping the stiff springs to make the mousetrap work correctly, the soft springs have trouble overcoming the mousetrap tension spring.

Ok, that makes sense to me now. Thanks guys

[RichO]

I might also add don't use the old style anti-rattle steels with the later five clutch discs. I missed that memo and just found out why. The ball retainers will machine a 1/16th slice off the top of you clutch discs and the older style clutch material is thicker and keeps the metal in the middle of those plates away from the ball retainers. Never to old to learn.it will mess with the adjustment too.

[RichO]

I see in my '71 and up parts book they show a drawing of the clutch assembly with 5 fiber plates and 4 steel plates and the steel plates have the anti-rattle balls attached. Yet I have the same plates that have out stamped on them and are the same only with no holes to attach the ball and spring assembly. In my service manual of the same vintage it say to stagger the steel plates from '781/2 to'81. I've always done that even with the old 3 1/2 clutch setup. I'm using this clutch setup in a tin primary electric start knucklehead and thought the anti-rattle plates would cancel the chatter but caused an interference issue. I would think that with the later aluminum primary's the oil and such quited them down so they were not needed. Rubone or anyone have input on this?

[Rubone]

Rich, what Ive seen is the OEM bonded plates from '68 up did not have any interference issues, however as more load and output was introduced to the clutch over the years the anti rattle feature was deleted because it became more of a liability than a help. The unit just didn't hold up with the increases and regularly broke sending debris into the system. And yes, the aluminum primaries definitely reduced the noise level. That being said I have to admit I ride a Ducati with a dry clutch, talk about racket....

[duffeycycles]

I agree with Rich & Robbie comments.I do pay close attention to that clearance but as Robbie said not all interfere with the anti rattlers.

[murph]

OK now a new problem......new clutch plates and bendix drive as talked about already. Installed the primary cover hit the starter I can hear the bendix drive engage and crank but now I hear a rapid clicking noise as if a dead battery. (again not my bike) so I check the battery and find low cells so I top off and charge the battery with no difference in the noise. I went to the easy stuff first with a known working battery and starter solenoid and still no difference. I disassemble and check my work with the bendix drive and all is smooth. I bumped the starter with the cover off and can see the bendix engage but hear the click. Where am I at this point? Starter rebuild? I hate just pulling parts but all of what I thought was the easy stuff.. Any help or suggestions? Thanks in advance. Murph

[Lyle Manheimer]

Starter relay under the right side of the battery box or possibly a high resistance, faulty, push button.

[duffeycycles]

probably not starter,is there a relay installed?They didn't have one originally but needed one.If there is a huge relay & wired with ground to one post,it is wrong.Ground goes to the relay frame not to a post.That will make a nightmare clicking in & out.There are solenoid wiring drawings online that are wrong.'91& later plastic relays use least current to power the solenoid.A bad bendix will also click & not drive the clutch.
Lead acid batteries are only 240-270 amp,Scorpion absorbed glass matt from Battery Stuff is 370 amp & lights up those '65-'88 starter systems.