I guess the next cheapest thing is the relay, and yes there is one under the battery box. I'll give that a go and report back. Thanks guys.
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I found out what is clicking so rapidly, It's the starter solenoid. The bendix drive engages and then the starter solenoid rapidly clicks back and forth. The starter relay is grounded to the frame as Duffy said. So are we still going with the relay? Thanks Murph1959 XLCH
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Well, after nos relay lost in the mail and finally getting here after I ordered another one, I installed it today and still the same problem with the starter solenoid clicking rapidly when the starter button is pushed. So just to refresh what I did with no change as of yet.
Brand new bendix drive installed
Took a known working battery from my shovelhead and tried it no change, put it back in my shovelhead and that fired right back up.
Swapped out the starter solenoid known to work and no change.
Installed nos starter relay and no change. I tested both according to the manual and test bulb and tested correctly. I left the nos one on there.
I am currently looking into the push button but have doubts that's it.
WHAT NEXT?? Thanks Guys I'm frustrated
1959 XLCH
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Murph,
Push button is about all that is left. With a good voltmeter check battery terminal voltage. Plus side of battery to negative side. Also check plus to frame or engine, should be the same. Take the voltmeter and attach the red + lead to the relay from the push button and the - negative lead to frame or engine. Push the start button and you should read very close to battery terminal voltage. If not you either have a bad pushbutton or a high resistance connection. Meaning you need to check all connections between the push button and the relay.
You can also lift the wire from the push button at the relay and take a jumper from the + side of the battery and momentarily touch it to the relay where you lifted the wire and if the solenoid engages you have definitely found the problem,
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Thankyou, I was going to ask is there a way to jump out the push button to see if that can be ruled out. This bike has been rewired at some point in its life. I pulled up the push button last night to investigate and found original wiring on it that does not match with the wire at the other ends which tells me there's a splice somewhere. If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly the wire from the start button to the relay is #3 and the one I need to use to jump out? I will continue my quest and report back. Thanks again for all the help.Last edited by murph; 07-23-2024, 08:36 AM.1959 XLCH
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Murphy,
If you are familiar with "voltage drop testing" please perform the test and it will lead you right to the problem. Quickly and accurately.
You can voltage drop the contacts and wiring at the starter button, relay and solenoid . It will show up. Remember larger wire gauge has a acceptable limit of 0.6 VDC Or less combined while smaller gauge wire may be up to approximately 1.0 VDC or less combined.
The smaller the gauge along with longer length, the higher the voltage drop.
Along with most everything, it is typically a accumulation of faults that need addressing. Contacts, wires, crimps, etc...
Hope this helps,
Duke Kleman
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I tried removing the #3 wire from the relay and temp touching it with a jumper and the results are the same rapid clicking from the solenoid. I completely took the starter button out of the equation by removing it from the terminals. I get 12 volts from all the points suggested. I am unfamiliar with the voltage drop test but when I hit the starter button the battery voltage drops from 12 to 5 volts.Last edited by murph; 07-24-2024, 08:04 PM.1959 XLCH
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Rapid clicking always meant dead battery to me. 5 volts is definitely dead!AMCA #41287
1972 FX Boattail Night Train
1972 Sportster project
1971 Sprint SS350 project
1982 FXR - AMCA 99.25 point restoration
1979 FXS 1200 never done playing
1998 Dyna Convertible - 100% Original
96" Evo Softail self built chopper
2012 103" Road King "per diem"
plus 13 other bikes over the years...
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I have a piece cut from an old outer primary cover that you can bolt on to support the starter drive. That way you can try the starter and observe if there is a mechanical reason that may be stopping it from working. I just thought that maybe there is something that binding up to stop it from turning over and also pulling the voltage way down when you try to start it. What happens if you remove the plugs and try to start it?Jim D
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