1966 FLH Linkert DC7 Info Please

[gitguy]

When I bought this bike 20 years ago it had a Super E installed but the original Linkert DC7 came with along with it. I've always wanted to get it back to it's original state. I bought a rebuild kit for the Linkert years ago and finally got around to the rebuild. It was apparent that this carb had never been apart since it left the factory back in the mid 60s. All the parts were there but it needed a good cleaning. Being a pretty simple device it went together rather easily with new seals and gaskets and the float set according the the manual: 1" +/- 1/64" from the edge of the float bowl.

So I have a couple of questions. I am concerned about this 55 year old float and how it will hold up with P4 ethanol. Anyone have any experience with this (Tom Cotten)?

Also I am uncertain about how many gaskets/spacers are required between the intake manifold and carb body.

Thanks for any input!







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[T. Cotten]

Graciously, Gitguy,...

There is ample room in the bowl for the float to swell!

I produced a batch many years ago, but received zero feedback.

....Cotten

[gitguy]

My obliged, Mr. Cotten!

Now I have to solve the gasket mystery . . .

Cheers!

[T. Cotten]

The Parts Book just shows a gasket, Gitguy!

The cast iron manifold and cast iron throttle housing won't distort nearly as bad as aluminum, bronze, or potmetal.

(The notion that multiple gaskets seal better is fallacy, as they allow distortion.)

I'd still grind them for inspection anyway, of course.

....Cotten

[Sportster Jerry]

That basically the same carburetor used on Sportsters from 1957-65. I have had the floats hang up on me a few times due to ethanol gas getting everything gummed up. On long rides I carry a spare loaded float bowl that I can swap on if need be.

[silver65]

I have been running my 65 sportster with a linkert DC for about two years and what swelled up with the ethanol fuel was the float swing arm pivot ( the white nylon piece that lifts the needle valve) to fix mine I enlarged/reamed the pivot with a little larger drill bit than the pivot shaft/rod and shaved the ends with a razor blade and started using non ethanol (recreation)fuel with a oz. of mystery oil every time I fill up. The float has and was not affected at all and have not had a problem in a while.Took two times to get it right and I keep a spare Float lever block but have not needed. IMG_1618.jpg

[gitguy]

This is what I found on the ITW site regarding the gasket situation, Cotten. That's where the confusion is from. I saw the parts manual showed a single gasket and then I came across this.


gasket.jpg

Thanks for sharing your experience with this Silver. Maybe I'll snag another swing arm pivot as a spare. Then there's Jerry idea of an extra float bowl at the ready.

So now I ask myself "Why do I want to remove a perfectly good carb and replace it with this?"

[T. Cotten]

Do you think your carb support will still line up, Gitguy?

Not much profit in just a single paper gasket!

Think you want to gamble on the insulator material's fuel resistance, when it ain't in the Book?

DCs are awesome. Can you guess what the first S&S carbs were patterned after?

....Cotten

[Rubone]

This is what I found on the ITW site regarding the gasket situation, Cotten. That's where the confusion is from. I saw the parts manual showed a single gasket and then I came across this.


gasket.jpg

Thanks for sharing your experience with this Silver. Maybe I'll snag another swing arm pivot as a spare. Then there's Jerry idea of an extra float bowl at the ready.

So now I ask myself "Why do I want to remove a perfectly good carb and replace it with this?"

Read your parts book, not some aftermarket suppliers listings. The stack of gaskets were adopted for Sportsters with magnetos, not for FLs with no clearance issues.

[T. Cotten]

I don't have a clue about Sportsters, Folks!

But I would have expected NOS (as claimed by the vendor) insulating spacers blueprinted in 1957 to be phenolic, which typically is a red-brown material, like Micarta.

Why two instead of one thick one?

Sportsters' iron heads run that much hotter?

....Cotten

[silver65]

This is what I found on the ITW site regarding the gasket situation, Cotten. That's where the confusion is from. I saw the parts manual showed a single gasket and then I came across this.


gasket.jpg

Thanks for sharing your experience with this Silver. Maybe I'll snag another swing arm pivot as a spare. Then there's Jerry idea of an extra float bowl at the ready.

So now I ask myself "Why do I want to remove a perfectly good carb and replace it with this?"

When I rebuilt my 900 xlch I started out with a new super "E" setup and after getting the jets right it took about 4-5 kicks on cold start with the linkert I got down to two kicks and sometimes one but I am in Florida what is cold I have a new super "E" if any one needs one.

[silver65]

Do you think your carb support will still line up, Gitguy?

Not much profit in just a single paper gasket!

Think you want to gamble on the insulator material's fuel resistance, when it ain't in the Book?

DCs are awesome. Can you guess what the first S&S carbs were patterned after?

....Cotten

Cotton I know that the S&S manufactured the L&L that had to be engineered after the Linkert DC carb , and I feel that the S&S Super B,E,&G was engineered after the bendix carbs there are just too many similarities to not think any different.

[gitguy]

Single gasket like original, it is.

[chuckthebeatertruck]

Magneto sportster and I turn similar mileage each year on old sporties running D.C. I had issues my first season with the pivot as mentioned here, but zero float issues. I've since covered 12k trouble free miles. I finfpd the D.C. The easiest carb on earth to keep in tune.

as for S&S, let's clean this up.

first carbs were G for gas, two sizes and very similar to D.C.
second Series were L, for late. GAL = gas, 1-7/8, late, gbl = gas, 1-3/4, late
third series were MGAL/MGBL. Same as above ur the m stands for modified.

The super b succeeded the L series. It has a concentric float to solve one of the l series downsides which is a major lean surge that happens when you hit the binders hard. The b also features much more easily accessed jets and a few other tricks that improve on the L.

The e is a different beast.

Spacers and insulators are as needed for clearance with magneto, though they come in handy for avoiding the cleaner hitting the big tank on pre-61 models. None needed for big twin.

Dc bolts right up to 1-7/8 manifold manifold whether alloy or iron. Iron/iron is hard to beat, but you must watch upper bolt lengths. D.C. Likes push or pull spirals or a snap throttle. It really is a forgiving beast.

[T. Cotten]

Thanks Chuck!

Just dug out my manifold box, and they all measure the same, contrary to my memory.

But I did find a funny 3/8" thick phenolic spacer.

Smells real to me...

...Cotten