Front brake problem

[Perry Ruiter]

Looks like the square where the lever is attached to the cam is punched out wrong. Attached is a photo of a genuine lever. I think it's hopeless to try and get a functioning brake with that lever you have... Perry

[Paps]

There is your answer ! (:

[rbenash]

Wow - I knew someone would come through for him if we had a photo. Sheesh, doesn't say much for quality control in the re-pop world. Well, at least in this case.

[George Greer]

Wow - I knew someone would come through for him if we had a photo. Sheesh, doesn't say much for quality control in the re-pop world. Well, at least in this case.

That is why I am in the process of replacing every aftermarket part on my WLA

[KDR]

The lever shown in the pix from rbenash is from a 45 model. The one Perry posted is for a BT.

[rbenash]

The lever shown in the pix from rbenash is from a 45 model. The one Perry posted is for a BT.

Is the square whole orientation supposed to be different on the 45 arm vs the BT arm?

[KDR]

Sorry, I got that backwards....Perry's is a 45 model.

Should have my coffee before I type.

[Perry Ruiter]

Sorry, I got that backwards....Perry's is a 45 model.

Should have my coffee before I type.

Just checked my Palmer's (which I should have done first) and Kurt is right. What am I doing with a 45 part? I've never owned one nor a 45 front backing plate. Even stranger is the most common 45 in these parts is the WLC which has a big twin front brake on it. So true 45 brake parts are unusual hence I just assumed if I had it it was for a big twin. Live and learn. Thanks for keeping me honest Kurt ... Perry

[davidsonp9]

I have the same issue. I explained this in my previous post. The problem is the cam not the lever. I am not sure what to do about it. All of the VTwin are the same so do not waste your time returning it for a replacement. A friend is running his 46 with the same issue. He says you just need to pull harder. The other option is to make a custom lever or OEM cam. Shaving the shoes will also allow you to adjust the lever more horizontal.

Paul

[Lonnie]

I am also having a problem with the springer front brake, on a '41 EL. Parts are all genuine H-D - drum, brake shoes, no repop except for linings, lever and arm are factory correct. I have absolutely no brake, period! Can't even hold the bike on a grade. We even modified a rear brake cam to see if we could get more bite - no better.

Are there issues with the repop linings? Any ideas?

[Paps]

Make sure your drum brake surface is not glazed. You can deglaze it by turning it in a lathe and roughing it up with emery cloth. If the cam and other components are ok and you suspect the lining is to thin, you can shim the lining out if lining is help on by rivets. Paps

[Paps]

This site is in need of software updates.

[Mark M]

thanks for your help, I always suspected the v-twin part was wrong, now to find an orignal

[bmh]

Lonnie, check the I.D. of your drum. A drum that is close to maxed out will have a noticeable degrade in braking, one that is over will have very little if any braking. Also as a note, in the old days when re-lining was a common operation shops had a special grinder that put the proper outside radius on the linings after they were riveted to the backers. You can accomplish the same thing by hand if you have the patience. Rub a little colored chalk on your linings, assemble, spin wheel and lightly apply brake. Disassemble and the chalk will be missing from the high spots, sand with a sanding block and repeat until you have 75% or better contact. have also done similar in reverse to true up slightly out of round drums that pulsated.

[rbenash]

Lonnie, check the I.D. of your drum. A drum that is close to maxed out will have a noticeable degrade in braking, one that is over will have very little if any braking. Also as a note, in the old days when re-lining was a common operation shops had a special grinder that put the proper outside radius on the linings after they were riveted to the backers. You can accomplish the same thing by hand if you have the patience. Rub a little colored chalk on your linings, assemble, spin wheel and lightly apply brake. Disassemble and the chalk will be missing from the high spots, sand with a sanding block and repeat until you have 75% or better contact. have also done similar in reverse to true up slightly out of round drums that pulsated.

Brian gives great advice here! Used to do this with my cars and bikes to shoot weird brake fade problems. As a matter of course when changing shoes on cars back in another life at minimum you applied an emery cloth treatment to the drums and to the linings regardless of whether you changed lining or cut the drum. Let's not even talk about liberal use of the air gun when doing this (asbestos). I actually used to use soapstone not chalk, but have no clue which one would be better.