Front brake problem

[Mark M]

I finally got my 48 panhead running and had a great time riding it this summer, however I have in the garage for some upgrades and need to figure out why my front brake is not getting full action.

It seems that the lever that the cable attaches to is not at the correct angle to get the maximum leverage for the brake cam to move. I thought that the part was machined in properly and purchased a second one from v-twin, it was the same. it seems like the square mounting portion is machined at about 90 degrees incorrectly, if it mounted to the cam at about 90 degrees counterclockwise it would work better. Long explanation but my question is? is this the right part? is it machined impropertly, even the harley wizard that did some work on tuning the bike for me counldn't explain it.

[rbenash]

Hey Mark, don't know if I'm the one to help or not - but I don't see the attachment?

[Mark M]

thanks for the reply

I couldn't upload the photo because the file was too big, if you send me your email I can sent it to you directly, thanks for the help.

[Chris Haynes]

Put the photo on photobucket then past it here.

[rbenash]

Mark

Sent you a few emails/PM previous

If you have challenges with Photobucket let me know and I will help you out.

You can email me at rbenash@verizon.net

[davidsonp9]

Mark,
Was the first one also from V-Twin?

I have the same issue with my springer front brake from V-Twin. Their reproduction correctness is lously as well as their quality. Mine also has the wrong thread size in the hole for the brake cam grease fitting. I will need to custom cut threads on a grease fitting. I have had numerous issues with V-Twin quality and fitment. It would not take any more effort on their part to produce the parts to correct dimensions but they do not seem to want to make the effort. If people stopped buying their crap maybe they would change their attitude.

[rbenash]

Mark,
Was the first one also from V-Twin?

I have the same issue with my springer front brake from V-Twin. Their reproduction correctness is lously as well as their quality. Mine also has the wrong thread size in the hole for the brake cam grease fitting. I will need to custom cut threads on a grease fitting. I have had numerous issues with V-Twin quality and fitment. It would not take any more effort on their part to produce the parts to correct dimensions but they do not seem to want to make the effort. If people stopped buying their crap maybe they would change their attitude.

I for one will not buy any more V Twin until they fix their quality issues. Just not worth the added time, effort and expense. IMHO

[Ohio-Rider]

Lets not rule out the possibility that these mechanical front brakes never where much to write home about, even when factory fresh.

[exeric]

That is a very astute observation Steve. The first Harley I ever owned that could stop it's own weight, had a front disk brake. I have to say that lousy mechanical front brakes will make you into a superb defensive rider.

[rbenash]

Definitely agree with Eric and Steve regarding old bikes and the stock brake systems. But there still is the need to make sure that the stock brake is assembled correctly. I've run older bikes (from '65 on) with stock drum brakes. Twin cam, single cam, etc. You can assemble them wrong and it will affect braking.

More importantly you can pick up an old bike that you assume was correct, only to find out you copied a previous owners error. When I got my '65 the front and rear breaks were grabbing and down right dangerous. The bike would actually skid even at low speed stops without warning. I had to disassemble and clean out all the old grease (over maintenance). Light emery cloth on the drum surfaces. Replaced the permeated brake shoes on both ends. Much, much better except the front brake was very weak. All grabbing was gone.

Found out later that the front brake springs were assembled wrong, looked at an old shop manual and all is working fine. As strong as a front disc? No way, but quite capable of hauling the bike down reasonably well now, or at least as designed.

One of the reasons I'd like to take a look at some pics and compare them to a shop manual, etc. If we had the pics there are plenty of experts smarter than me here that could spot a problem readily is my guess.

[portagepan]

I have found on my '65 Harley big twin that the brakes aren't bad when they are properly set up and seviced. You have to check the arc on the shoes/drum to have a full stopping force. There are more agressive linings that are available than the originals, too. The vintage racers would be the experts on this, I would think.
Mike

[Ohio-Rider]

Excellent point about properly setting and servicing these mechanical brakes Mike. Anyone thinking they just need to take a set of after market shoes out of the box and install them is in for a real disappointment. The last set I assembled from the box where more than 1/8” out from being concentric with the axle. That may not seem like much to the manufacture but their not the ones hammering the brakes because someone pulled out in front of them.

[rbenash]

Sorry folks. Mike sent me a copy to post for him last night. But my "day job" got in the way today

Here's his reference photo:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...e/DSCF0106.jpg

Anyone have one they can compare to his?

[Rod K]

Front Brake Problem

Mark...I just went out in the garage and pulled my brake lever off my 48 to take a look.
It's the same as the one pictured. Are you using the correct brake cable? A friend of mine used a later, smaller dia. wire on a bike one time and it stretched when the brake was applied with the same effect you talk about.....Rod

[Mark M]

The cable does not seem to be the problem it has plenty of strength and can pull the lever, the problem is the positon of the lever does not give the full motion of the brake cam. it seems that the level should be mounted at a different angle on the brake cam. All of the photos I have seen of restored 48s show this part at about parallel to the ground level, my mounts at about 7 o'clock when it appears that it should mount at about 9 o'clock to achieve the maximum movement of the cam, does this make any sense?