External Oil Filter Canister - Retaining Hardware

[Iacovos]

Hello everyone

I am a bit confused with the external oil filter canister retaining hardware.
The parts catalogue shows a acorn nut (63852-48) and a washer (63858-49) which is steel i believe.
Aftermarket rebuild kits give a normal style nut and a copper washer.
Why was the acorn nut and steel washer dropped by the aftermarket?
Which combination seals best the canister not to leak?
Is any form of grease or gasket sealant reccomended?

Thank you

[Saddletramp]

I believe there is a small diameter steel washer and possibly two nuts below the filter on the inside bottom of the canister and the 63858-39 (asbestos or maybe it is copper on mine) washer and acorn nut outside retaining the canister. The asbestos or copper washer is the solution for a seal. I have never used a sealant on the bottom of the can.
James

[otis71]

Originally all seals were made of gasket material. Where the canister mates to the top has a tendency to weep a little over time but I found a dry gasket works best on this application.

[Iacovos]

Thank you!

[Rubone]

The key to non-leaking canisters is the adjustment of the backing nuts on the rod inside the assembly which prevent collapse of the canister end. When adjusted correctly as the top gasket is compressed the canister contacts the nuts and then the acorn and gasket do a fine job of sealing the pointed end.

[Iacovos]

The key to non-leaking canisters is the adjustment of the backing nuts on the rod inside the assembly which prevent collapse of the canister end. When adjusted correctly as the top gasket is compressed the canister contacts the nuts and then the acorn and gasket do a fine job of sealing the pointed end.

Thank you Rubone

[dukekleman]

Lacovos,

Rubone nailed it. The correct adjustment length of the rod and nut assembly is crucial! I see them incorrect quite often.

With that said, you must remove the dimple that is most likely in your canister where the seals and outer nut seat. This dimple gets created because the adjustment is incorrect.
The other reason is people buy various gaskets sets available for the filter housings and their assembly heights vary. This requires the reset of the assembly.

Try to target for a 0.020" air gap in the end. This will allow proper pressure on your gaskets. It will also allow the memory in the steel of the canister to return when loosened for service.

Hope this helps,

Duke Kleman

[Iacovos]

THANK YOU ALSO dukekleman

MENTIONING A CORRECT ASSEMBLY ON THE ROD. WE ARE INSTALLING THE OIL FILTER WITH GASKET AND THE FIRST NUT TO SEAT ON THE BASE OF THE FILTER. AND THE SECOND NUT AS A LOCKING NUT.
THEN THE CANISTER, WASHER (63858-49) AND ACORN NUT. ON THE FILTER CAP THE THREADS OF THE ROD EXTEND AS MUCH FOR THE ACORN NUT TO BE IN PLACE AND SNUG
ALSO INSTEAD OF THE COPPER WASHER I AM USING 63858-49 ON THE CANISTER AND ACORN NUT (LEAKS LESS BUT STILL LEAKS...)
AM I MISSING SOMETHING?

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE

[dukekleman]

Lacovos,

Many times the bottom of the canister is dimpled as I mentioned. This dimple occurs because the rod adjustment was in correct for the stack height of the canister and required gasketing.
With that said, if there was a dimple, did you remove it as necessary?
Also be sure to verify the top of the canister gasket surface is flat for sealing purposes.

Hope this helps,
Duke Kleman

[Iacovos]

Great thanks a lot Duke.
All Clear.
We removed the dimple as much as we were allowed. But anyhow we will do another oil change soon and install a new oil filter
Will also check the oil filter assembly then.
I will be back on this thread in case things go south

[Iacovos]

OK SOLVED
Believe it or not was the nut underneath the washer. When we received the bike from the museum it had a plain nut.
We added the OEM acorn nut that has a flush surface and leaked stopped.
WASHER (63858-49) - did a good job.
THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT