While trying to figure why my 6v sealed beam is so dim I discovered that the headlight terminal on the ignition switch is only reading 5.7v while 6.3v is going into the switch. I took the switch off and it was reading about 4 ohms resistance on both the headlight terminal and the ignition terminal going to the coil. So obviously this is too much lost power but my question is; should I expect some loss through the switch and if yes how much is acceptable?
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Voltage Drop Across Ignition Switch
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Keep in mind that when the switch is on in the lights position the ignition circuit is also on a well as anything on the accessory post.Voltage drop is normal as it is being drawn from several downstream sources. That is the purpose of the third brush on three brush generators, or the regulator on two brush, it increases output when those systems drawing more are connected. Only reads right when running and at a reasonable RPM.Robbie Knight Amca #2736
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If your switch can be taken apart you can clean all the connections with contact cleaner and re-assemble. Sometimes burnt contacts can be re-surfaced with 2000 sandpaper wetted with WD40. Clean all surfaces afterward with contact cleaner to remove abrasives/WD40.
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That is the same switch DEEBS. As a follow up on Rubone’s advice I hooked up just the power from the battery and the headlight feed through the switch and got full voltage at the headlight leading me to believe it’s not the switch though I did clean the contacts and rotated the roller to a fresh spot on the contacts. I haven’t checked voltage with the bike running yet but bottom line is the headlight is very dim with everything hooked up but ok when only the light is powered leaving me to believe all headlight wires and ground are sufficient. I think next I’ll hook up one wire at a time back to the switch and see where the voltage drops.
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I prefer to see 1 ohm or less resistance across any switch especially on a 6 volt system. The good thing about running incandescent bulb is at least it still lights even if the voltage drops. When I converted my Chief to LED, I learned LED bulbs are a good continuity check of the wiring system because The LED wouldn't fire unless it received over 6 volts. Getting it all tidied up I have the 48 Chief headlamp and spots converted to LED. On the 64 FLH I have an original T3 I converted to LED as well as the spots and turn signals. Both bikes running 6 Volt. I end up riding after dark occasionally and both bikes really light up the night. Never know its only 6 volt system. Have electronic voltage regulators in both which run 7.1 - 7.2 volts constant with engine running.Jason Zerbini
#21594
Near Pittsburgh PA (Farm Country)
Allegheny Mountain Chapter http://amcaamc.com/
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Deebs, - the 48 has a sealed beam so its different than your application. Several years ago Vintage Car LEDS https://vintagecarleds.com/shop/7-in...headlight-kit/ Had a 6volt sealed beam that was plug and play. For some reason they discontinued it, but still shows on website. Wish they wouldn't have as others wanted to convert. Makes daytime riding safer as well as its so bright.
I will PM you an AMCA member contact that can help you with an LED bulb for your application. He has supplied LED as well as electronic regulator conversions for Cannonball bikes and numerous.
Jason Zerbini
#21594
Near Pittsburgh PA (Farm Country)
Allegheny Mountain Chapter http://amcaamc.com/
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I tried a 6v led on this same bike and it would light usually but sometimes not. Now after reading this thread I know why: not enough voltage. The only 6v bulb I could find was on Amazon and was Chinese. I blamed chinese crap for the issues at the time for what I now know was voltage drop. The bulb I used fit in a halogen bulb fixture which is compatible with the factory headlight.
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I tried one of these Chinese elements (I know the Harley socket is different than the Motolight Indian socket) but it was pretty weak.
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