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  • #31
    Originally posted by T. Cotten View Post
    You must now configure it correctly yourself, Freeman,...

    The springs on your installed advance weights are destroyed; The assembly shown on the right in your photo has a better chance to function.

    Static timing should then be checked, and if it starts, timing should be checked again with a strobe.

    ....Cotten
    How does Strbe work on panhead? It seems to be different from the way a car engine works.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Freeman View Post
      How does Strbe work on panhead? It seems to be different from the way a car engine works.
      It is discussed in the 1959-1969 Service Manual, Freeman,..

      On page 5F-6, and should be available through the AMCA library.

      Oil blowing out the timing inspection hole can be minimized by supporting the machine upright, and running the machine for a moment before removing the plug.

      RPM must be fast enough for the advance weights to reach their limits against the springs.

      ....Cotten
      Last edited by T. Cotten; 11-03-2022, 03:10 PM.
      AMCA #776
      Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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      • #33
        I wish we would not use HD's old oil numbers.This comes up often,as VPHD posted 105 weight.etc.Those are HDs old numbers.The first is from pan & shovel service manual,2nd from 19781/2-1984 manual.The later manual is using numbers for
        most oils today.Extra heavy was 60w,Regular heavy was 50w img261.jpgimg260.jpg
        Last edited by duffeycycles; 11-04-2022, 11:13 AM.

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        • #34
          That's what I meant by 'proprietary', Duffey!

          (Back in post #20..)

          If Freeman solves the timing, he may solve the noise too.

          ....Cotten
          AMCA #776
          Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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          • #35
            I thought I made it clear by stating 40 weight and 60 weight after the 75 and 105 statement...
            vph-d

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            • #36
              Originally posted by vph-d View Post
              I thought I made it clear by stating 40 weight and 60 weight after the 75 and 105 statement...
              vph-d
              Honestly, Vph-d:

              Originally posted by vph-d View Post
              Back in the 70s dealership wisdom was 75w for hydraulics, 105w for solids. 40 weight/60 weight I use H-D 60 in my rigids, 40 in my 65.
              vph-d
              If I didn't already know what you meant, from four decades ago, it would be gibberish.

              Please remember that Freeman is most likely using translation software!

              ....Cotten
              AMCA #776
              Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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              • #37
                Ready to use
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                This gallery has 1 photos.

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                • #38
                  My advice, Freeman,..

                  Please continue with 50wt, or even 40wt if your weather is cooling.

                  Clearances in a low-mileage motor should be minimal, so flow of a thick oil would be inhibited.

                  (Pressure at the gauge increases, but not the volume; Excess is by-passed into the gearcase to be evacuated, instead of feeding the rest of the motor.)

                  ...Cotten
                  Last edited by T. Cotten; 11-09-2022, 05:50 PM.
                  AMCA #776
                  Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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                  • #39
                    Freeman,
                    I would investigate the "rate" of ignition timing advance with the timing advancer shown in the photos you attached. They appear as though they are a thicker wire diameter which is a heavier rate spring. The heavier springs slow the advance curve of the overall ignition timing which in turn causes excessive engine heat. I've seen this issue on many bikes over the years.

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by T. Cotten View Post
                      My advice, Freeman,..

                      Please continue with 50wt, or even 40wt if your weather is cooling.

                      Clearances in a low-mileage motor should be minimal, so flow of a thick oil would be inhibited.

                      (Pressure at the gauge increases, but not the volume; Excess is by-passed into the gearcase to be evacuated, instead of feeding the rest of the motor.)

                      ...Cotten
                      OK.Follow your advice.thanks

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by dukekleman View Post
                        Freeman,
                        I would investigate the "rate" of ignition timing advance with the timing advancer shown in the photos you attached. They appear as though they are a thicker wire diameter which is a heavier rate spring. The heavier springs slow the advance curve of the overall ignition timing which in turn causes excessive engine heat. I've seen this issue on many bikes over the years.
                        I have adjusted it clockwise now, and the temperature seems to be a little lower. How to solve the spring problem?

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                        • #42
                          The advance rate can be checked using a timing light and portable/universal tachometer. Look up the correct Timing advance degrees and Rpm in the service manual and set accordingly.
                          I would purchase new springs of OEM diameter. Also be sure to lubricate the weight pivot pins as well as the inner cam lobe pivot. Keep in mind this is a annual maintenance procedures that should be followed for reliability.

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by dukekleman View Post
                            ...I would purchase new springs of OEM diameter...
                            There were at least three different OEM advance springs (-64, -67, -70), Duke,..

                            And this is not an OEM circuit breaker. Nor are the weights, but the design is '70 and later...

                            My suggestion Freeman, is to use the assembly on the right in your post #24, and strobe it of course; Arbitrary adjustments can hurt.

                            ....Cotten
                            PS: I put my '65 circuit breaker upon a SUN machine to diagnose bouncing points once; The advance was nearly instantaneous, with almost no "curve".
                            Last edited by T. Cotten; 11-10-2022, 11:29 AM.
                            AMCA #776
                            Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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                            • #44
                              I've played and done some development/modifications on HD units many years ago on the Sun distributor machine. It's there I started to learn how to work around issues and deal with higher compression larger Cubic inch HD's.

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                              • #45
                                I see in the manual, Folks,..

                                Advance is 35°, but I recently missplaced page 5F-6 to seek RPM, so we assume fast enough that the strobe shows it.

                                The degrees of advance before top-dead-center is set in steel with the flywheel mark, and HD was quite accurate.
                                (Indian not so much.)

                                It was many years ago, but I successfully made a similar aftermarket auto-advance circuitbreaker work, so it is possible.

                                ....Cotten
                                AMCA #776
                                Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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