Hd 63805-48 oil filter housing-in need of repair

[CAP'N BOB]

As Rubone said, welded to the tank. I am working on another insert, one long enough to get at least 3 out of. It is a bolt, as recommended, so has the outside threads, and I'm drilling on my lathe to get down to where I can attempt to tap the inside. God willing, this will do it. My concern is, as Cotten said, destruction of the part. I suppose one way to look at that is that it will be as much of a desk ornament destroyed as not if it is not repairable. I'm going for it is repairable and will be on the bike. Will keep you updated on the progress, and am more than happy to hear of more ideas.
Thank you.

[Rubone]

Why not just make a new fitting with an oversize thread that will fit into the housing without removing any material from it and possibly destroying it. A sealing compound like Locktite Quick Metal or something else could be used on the threads to fill any gaps.
Tom

The fitting it screws onto is welded to the oil tank, no way to make one oversized.

[Tom Wilcock]

Why not just make a new fitting with an oversize thread that will fit into the housing without removing any material from it and possibly destroying it. A sealing compound like Locktite Quick Metal or something else could be used on the threads to fill any gaps.
Tom

[T. Cotten]

I found my 11/16"-20 tap, Cap'n!

(And a spare 9/16"-24 tap, too, if anybody needs one....)
By eyeball, it would still leave a sixteenth or so clearance from the edge of the casting on my bad example.

"Shrink fit" is basically what I meant by Plan B, Larry!
But interference by any means risks splitting the casting, and more likely to break loose down the road than a threaded union.

Once again, Cap'n,..
It would make sense to cut a really really long insert, maybe three or more times too long.
Then you could whack one chunk off in case you botch installing the first, leaving the rest long enough not only to grab it in the chuck to install it into the housing, but to then part it off, facing the housing with a square sealing surface at the same time.

...Cotten
PS: Personally, I'd choose brass.

[CAP'N BOB]

This is the 5/8-18 bolt I am working with and believe I may be able to drill it out and tap it to 9/16-24. I do not know if the housing would take the stress, though. Like you said, Tom, the stress of this may destroy the part.


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[CAP'N BOB]

Page two of this thread, post #30, Cap'n,...

The one on the right looks a lot like yours; I guess Plan B would be a goober'd and pressed-in insert, but lets figure how large of tap your housing would safely accept, and consider its availability.

Somewhere I think I have an 11/16", because I highlighted it in my MSC catalog.

....Cotten

What is the one on the left that looks like a push in plug that must fill up the hole enough that the threads of the oil tank fitting force the material out into the threads that are there? But there is a lip and that is what you were saying about a show bike not passing muster. Now I get it. What is that material?

I tried brass shim material, and actually got a solid connection with a fitting, but that did not last long under some stress. This has 17/128 material at the thinnest part.

A 5/8, being the next larger size, maybe?



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20220103_155443.jpg This is a 41/64 drill, which should let me run a 5/8-18 tap, so If I could use the lathe to make an insert with 9/16-24 inside and 5/8-18 outside thread (since I have a 5/8-18 bolt to work with) that could be carefully threaded into the oil housing and allow a fit?

[larry]

Shrink fit would work.

[T. Cotten]

Page two of this thread, post #30, Cap'n,...

The one on the right looks a lot like yours; I guess Plan B would be a goober'd and pressed-in insert, but lets figure how large of tap your housing would safely accept, and consider its availability.

Somewhere I think I have an 11/16", because I highlighted it in my MSC catalog.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

I will measure.

I cannot find your example on Core-Float, Tom. Could you send it again, please?

Bob

[T. Cotten]

Its back to that core-float thing, Cap'n!

How much meat does your particular casting have around the hole?

My example without much float could probably take a 3/4" tap (but its got perfect threads).

And I put calipers on a 5/8" tap, and it doesn't look like enough clearance between bottoms of the threads and the tops of 9/16" threads. You'd have daylight.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Oh, no, Tom, I did not mean an insert in an insert, I plan to make one insert that will fit into the oil filter housing, sorry, I was not clear on that. I agree, an insert in an insert would be a bad idea.

Here is what I think I know and my (current) plan: the oil line fitting on the tank is 9/16-24; drill out the housing to take a 5/8-18 thread insert; drill the housing with a 41/64 drill bit; and tap with a 5/8-18. I have a piece of 5/8-18 from an old bolt and plan to drill that out with a 37/64 drill bit and tap to 9/16-24. Then, use green loctite on the insert I make that goes into the oil filter housing, which should make it as solid as anything, being sleeve/bushing loctite.

Am I on the right track, or were you saying the tap will destroy the housing?

[T. Cotten]

I swear by Time-Sert. They call it an "over the fender" repair, meaning, you can fix treads without removing a part. If you are careful, you can repair spark plug threads (replace) without disassembling the head. Grease and care, no filings in the head. Amazing product.

I've got nothing against commercial inserts, Cap'n!

It just seems like it won't solve your problem; Making an insert for an insert just adds another place to seal, and another place to come loose.

I wouldn't plan anything until you have fresh oversize threads cut in the casting, and then just cut a single insert.

Uh oh. There isn't a common tap that won't bust out the wall...

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

A friend of mine used to make thin wall sleeves, etc. on his lathe using titanium bolts. They are stronger than steel but tough to machine. A bolt big enough for you would be expensive if you can't get the from where you work, like he did.

Thank you. That is a thought. A really good thought, actually. Cut the bolt head off before chucking it up. Put the bolt in the jaw and run drill bits into it on the lathe, working slowly until it is up to the size that allows a 9/16-24 tap, and the outside threads are there, already. I am going to try that. May not use titanium, at least for the first one, but I like this idea, a lot. Thank you, Joe.

[CAP'N BOB]

I swear by Time-Sert. They call it an "over the fender" repair, meaning, you can fix treads without removing a part. If you are careful, you can repair spark plug threads (replace) without disassembling the head. Grease and care, no filings in the head. Amazing product.

[rms337]

Funny to see this. I just ordered a Timesert kit for a fix on 1/4-24 hole on the Indian. After no luck in finding options for helicoil in that size, I came across Timesert mentioned in a youtube video. Thought I would give it a shot to help save a part.