Hd 63805-48 oil filter housing-in need of repair

[joe fxs fxr]

A friend of mine used to make thin wall sleeves, etc. on his lathe using titanium bolts. They are stronger than steel but tough to machine. A bolt big enough for you would be expensive if you can't get the from where you work, like he did.

[CAP'N BOB]

A company, make a great product. Like HeliCoil, only MUCH better. This is their site: https://time-sert.com/

The kits come with an oversize tap and everything to replace threads. Once I found them, I sold all my HeliCoil kits on eBay. It is an amazing product. I tried their site to see if I could find the inserts I am now trying to make, to save this piece of history, but the 9/16-24 is an odd enough size that they do not appear to produce a kit for them. If they did, we would not have had all of this conversation. I am glad to have had the conversation, I learned a lot from it. Just like all I've learned, putting the 1948 together. Not only adding mechanical skills, but developing a greater appreciation for the people who keep these old bikes running. Amazing. Thank you.

[T. Cotten]

You lost me with Time-Sert, Cap'n,.

I hope you just mean the oversize tap?

...Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Well. crap! Kept working and got down to 74/128, and set the end mill too deep on the next run, taking the threads, So, where I had 1/2 inch, it is not 1/4" :-(

Start on number 3 attempt, tomorrow. Maybe I need to modify the housing, make the hole a little larger. I sure do not want to do that. I guess I will be compelled to increase the size of the hole, like you said Tom. I do that with Time-Sert, of course, but this just seems different, being a 1948 part, and all.

Back at it tomorrow.

[T. Cotten]

Are they all off center like the one on the right, Tom?

Except those like the one on the left, Cap'n!

Those are the only two I've held in my hand.

Steel makes sense, stainless, or even brass.

But aren't you going to oversize and tap the damaged housing before you cut an insert to fit?
(I'd make it really long, so you can twist it in tight, let the goober set up, and then whack it off.)

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Are they all off center like the one on the right, Tom? That looks just about like the one I am working on.

This is a short status and request for comments.

I made an aluminum insert and it promptly collapsed. Working on a mild steel insert on the lathe, now. I have the 9/16-24 TPI threads cut on the inside of the insert and am running the outside down to fit the hogged out oil filter housing. The problem I see coming is that the oil filter housing is just barely over 9/16 (the oil fitting drops in, not leaving much slack but not catching the threads that are in the oil filter housing either), which means to me, the insert will need to be Very thin. I hesitate to drill out any more material than is already gone, but maybe I will need to do that to get the insert to get purchase (no matter what it is made from). If I can get just close enough, but not too thin, it will work. The hole measures 69/128, and there are threads deeper than that, since the 9/16 oil fitting drops in and pulls out, no turning, so not engaging any threads. The insert is at 79/128, as far as it has been machined down. The (future) insert is tapped 9/16-24 to about a 1/2 inch of thread.


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[T. Cotten]

Here's what I meant by core-float, Folks,...

FLTRHSNG.jpg

It looks like a smaller seal would be better than larger, or best yet, cut the seal to match the housing. Butting up to the tank is the only way it can be sealed, so it remains a mystery what the factory was thinking.

I've had zero luck with aluminum "solders" (although I haven't put my MuggyWeld to the test, yet). Nonetheless, with a thin-walled insert with fine threads, any heat at all isn't a good thing, unless you've got the expensive tap. It would be safer to goober it with a Loc-Tite.

Indexing would depend entirely upon the thickness of a seal that is not only compliant, but also tough: Heat and oil proof at least.
A full revolution of the housing at 24tpi would be just under forty-two thou, so that's about a degree of rotation for every thou or so you sand off your seal spacer.

You would have to paint it to hide it from the judges, though.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Great idea, thank you.

[joe fxs fxr]

If you go with an insert, you can clock it before soldering so the filter is vertical and the fitting is tight.

[CAP'N BOB]

Perhaps aluminum solder would be of use.

Thank you, that may work, too.

This AMCA Forum has provided me with a wealth of information and increased my ability to work on this motorcycle (and others). Thank you, all.

[CAP'N BOB]

Thank you, Highlander. I now have two options that make sense to me and I think I can do, yours and the one from Tom.

Thank you, both, very much. I want to save this 1948 piece for my customer, and one of these two methods will most likely allow me to do that.

[larry]

Perhaps aluminum solder would be of use.

[Highlander]

Yes, threads intact. I think the insert method discussed previously is the way to repair the one you are working on. Another insert idea would be to machine a piece of aluminum with the internal thread of the tank fitting with a no thread external diameter. The filter top would require a counter bore slightly larger than the OD of the aluminum bushing. The bushing would then be slid into the counterbore and TIG welded at the mating joint. Of course, one could possibly make the bushing with an interference fit and press into the filter top, therefore requiring no welding, except a tack weld, or a pin in the joint similar to the way case and cam cover bushing are retained to prevent movement.

[CAP'N BOB]

Thank you, Highlander. Were the threads in the filter housing intact? The one I am working with has the threads hogged out.

[Highlander]

Although I do not know how the factory intended for the canister to the tank interface to be sealed, I used a rubber donut fitted on the outside of the tank fitting sandwiched between the filter top and tank. This allowed the top to be clocked (tightened) to the proper position to accept the rigid line from the pump with no induced stress in the assembly. This also created a seal between the tank fitting and filter top by compressing the rubber. This seems to work as the filter has been installed on a rider for 12 years with no leaks or breakage.
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