Hd 63805-48 oil filter housing-in need of repair

[CAP'N BOB]

Not sure if I have updated this post, but I have run the engine multiple times and the oil filter housing and canister do NOT leak! Great. Thank you, all.

Bob

[CAP'N BOB]

Indeed! :-)

[joe fxs fxr]

Congratulations! Here's hoping it doesn't leak from either end

[CAP'N BOB]

It is on. Have not started the bike, yet, so do not know if it will leak.

The use of the Shifter Washer is to let me get it indexed; the second photo show that once tight, it is pretty much hidden and the oil filter housing is tight. Does not touch the exhaust pipe or oil lines. It fit well on the oil tank threads, even with me putting it on and taking it off multiple times to find out what would allow it to be a best fit, that I can make. I tried a brass washer and multiple sizes of O-rings before settling on the shifter washer. Even that, I had to modify a bit to get the nice fit Certainly would not pass muster at a AMCA show, but I'm not expecting this bike to ever be in one. The goal for him is to have it to be able to ride, not show.

The oil canister still concerns me. I cannot imagine that it will not leak out the bottom with the nylon washer that he had with it, but will give it a go.

Thank you, all, again for your help.

Bob

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[gitguy]

Nice work Cap'n! Thanks for sharing.

[joe fxs fxr]

Well done! Can't wait to see it on the bike

[CAP'N BOB]

Finished, except, any recommendations on staking this? I used green loctite on the lower half of the insert and Permatex Liquid Metal Filler on the upper half. The filler allows for drilling, filling, sanding, etc. After the filler had set for 4 hours, I cut the part from the brass rod and counter sunk the insert to facilitate installation onto the oil tank. After the green loctite cures for 24 hours, I will install the oil filter housing. That gives me time to stake the insert to the housing, if there are strong recommendations for that (the green loctite is sort of a chemical "stake").



How bad it was: 20220104_123430.jpg


How far it came:
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Not dead center, but better and the threads work.

Again, I want to thank all of you who took the time to help me with this. I believe this was worth every hour spent. It is an old part and it appears to have been saved; until it is on the bike and has oil running through it, I cannot say it is saved. The guidance and recommendations given about this were what allowed me to get this done. Tom Cotten, Highlander, Larry and several others helped me with this and I truly thank each of you. All the comments and recommendations helped me think about this, a lot, and get this far. Thank you, all.

[CAP'N BOB]

Thank you. The die is not adjustable. Never having done this before, the lack of experience makes it difficult to know what is good versus bad.

[BigLakeBob]

On a 2A class thread you are only under .001 from the major diameter low limit. That really shouldn't matter. The pitch diameter of the thread is what makes the proper fit. If you decide to make another fitting the only way to make a better fit would be if you have an adjustable die. Open it up for a tighter thread, the pitch would be larger. Good job saving a rare part.

[CAP'N BOB]

As stated, the goal was .6825. Unfortunately, I went past that and hit .6770. As you can see from the photos, there is plenty of meat for the inner threads, and an oil tank fitting of 9/16-24 fits nicely, so it will go on the tank with no issue .

I am a little concerned that the .6770 is too small. The threads are very easy going in until it bottoms out, and maybe, with the green loctite, that will be ok. I am going to try another shot at it, and be more careful when I get close to .6825. It was not easy cutting the threads with the 11/16-20 die, but not dreadful, either. .6825 may be too much to cut with the die, and maybe I will end up between that and where it is now at .6770.

It is close. I thank you, Tom for telling me to go with the 11/16-20, there is plenty of material on the insert, so I have no concern about failure from the insert. It will not collapse as the first two efforts did when I was using the 5/8th, too little wall between the inner and outside. This looks perfect.


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[CAP'N BOB]

Not always easy to trust. I can relate to the metal butcher.

[T. Cotten]

..The Die Blank Size I found, on-line is 0.6875" major diameter and 0.6262" minor diameter, and it told me to reduce the rod size to 0.6825", with a 30 degree chamfer on the rod to start the die. Is that correct, Tom?

Who am I to question "on-line", Cap'n?

As a "salvage machinist", I was more of metal butcher.

Your instincts should prevail, please trust them!

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

That was the easiest part of all of this! The tap went in with no issues. Stands straight up in the hole. I can move on to making the insert.

Any recommendations on how deep I run the insert into the oil filter housing, once it is made?

The Die Blank Size I found, on-line is 0.6875" major diameter and 0.6262" minor diameter, and it told me to reduce the rod size to 0.6825", with a 30 degree chamfer on the rod to start the die. Is that correct, Tom?


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[CAP'N BOB]

Have been working on this; the photos show where I am and give an indication of how I got there.

Made what I planned to be a Jig, to let me move up carefully on the modification, turned out to be more of a gauge, when I could not figure out any way to secure the oil housing to the jig or even the Smithy to allow me to use the Jig. The thought of running a power tool on this part--mill, lathe or drill--was more than I could take. The 3 step jig allowed me to see how far off from center I was at each stage. I used a vise grips on the drill bits to allow me to carve the hole larger in the 3-stage multiple step process, then used reamers to get additional material out when the drill bits did not feel prudent; I also used the drill bits as gauges for the holes to try to not take out too much material at any time. I carved the hole out, manually, using the sneak up on it drill bits and various scraping tools. The hole is moved more center, if not fully center.

Next, I will use some light sanding paper to smooth the surface, then use the tap, using cutting oil. At that point, I will know if there is any sense making the insert. The brass rod arrived yesterday, so if the tap goes well, I will continue.

Which ever way this goes, I will inform you. Again, I very much appreciate your help and I have learned a tremendous amount.

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[T. Cotten]

It shouldn't be that hard to calculate, Cap'n,...

Just how many thou you can move the center of the new hole and still 'clean up'.

It shouldn't go oval unless your spindle isn't stiff enough for an interrupted cut.

....Cotten