Hd 63805-48 oil filter housing-in need of repair

[CAP'N BOB]

I was trying to figure it out, and mill-bore was all that I could picture working, because of the shape of the part. I'm pretty sure I can clamp/secure the part on the table in a vise, and that will allow me to bring the spindle down to the part, plus move the table back and forth, if we reach agreement on removing some from the "red" marked side. That may make it egg shaped, but I am concerned about the small amount of metal on the "black" marked side. Looking down into the hole, it appears that maybe the whole drilled out portion is at an angle, not just off-center.

I have various sizes of vises and can visualize that process. How I could mount it and have the lathe part work, does not come to me. If I could secure the part, I could still move the table at the bore/bit but I would not see it as well as if the part is standing up and the mill spindle is coming down. Mine is all manual, not CNC, so this is all on me to control the cutting.

The insert will be easy enough, I've done 3, though 2 did not work. Learning as I go. When the brass rod arrives, that will be easier to work with than the first attempts, a piece of aluminum, a pipe and then the 5/8" bolt. This is fun! Scary, but fun. I do not want to damage the oil filter housing. Making the inserts is just time, I can replace those parts and try again. The oil filter housing because of its age is irreplaceable, in my mind, so there is one shot at that.

[T. Cotten]

Not a day goes by, Cap'n,...

That I don't use a triangular scraper.

Any alternative to hand-carving requires that the housing be fixtured for machining, and that will require creativity.

Boring and threading has always been easiest for me on the lathe. Although it would be conventionally mounted to a faceplate, I have bored pieces while clamped to a toolpost, with a 'spoon' in the lathe chuck. You may be more comfortable to mill-bore it.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

I ordered some solid brass round stock, 3/4", should be able to drill then tap with the 9/16-24, and turn the 3/4 down to use the 11/16-20 die to cut threads and the 11/16-20 tap to make the threads in the housing, after CAREULLY enlarging the hole? Green loctite the insert? Try to center the hole and fill in with the liquid metal? I think you mention a dremel or small cutting tool to bring the hole to the "fat" part of the housing (part I colored red), moving the hole that direction a little and maybe not cut into the thin part, Tom?

[T. Cotten]

A pressed insert's gonna spin, Stroker...

It's got to be twisted onto the oiltank tight.

....Cotten

[stroker]

i mean turn a piece round stock to a light press fit

[stroker]

i would drill hole out over size turn some an insert to a light press fit insert 3/32 below surface then tig weld flush spot face drill and tap

[larry]

It looks like enough machine to do this job. Use a boring bar to center the hole and go slow

[CAP'N BOB]

I have a CB-1220 XL, Lathe-Mill-Drill that I bought in June 1998. Not super sophisticated, but useful for what little I do. It can do a lot more than I know how to do. It was money well spent, for me.

[larry]

Is this what you have? smithy.png

[CAP'N BOB]

Oh, I mis-read that, the press would put too much stress on the part and the threaded insert would be safer, sorry. I am open to whatever works the best, and you all have a lot more experience than I do..

[CAP'N BOB]

Good afternoon.

I do have a Smithy Mill, Drill, Lathe, small but it works. The operator leaves a lot to be desired, but he(I) is always willing to go where angels fear to tread, well, maybe not that adventurous, but...

The attached photos show what I am currently thinking, in line with the above. I have not taken any action on what you see, other than to show that the hole is off center and how I could possibly center it. After I get the threaded insert done, or maybe, now a sleeve to press in, looking at some of the recent posts, ream towards the red marking and fill in with liquid metal on the black of the circle, thereby centering the hole. I have used the liquid metal a fair amount, but nothing like this. I am also a poor to fair welder and have made a sheet metal brake that I used to make oil change pans, welding up the corners, sealing with the liquid metal because my welding is not always perfect. The liquid metal keeps the hot oil from fluid changes in the catch pans I made, I have even used it on parts I then powder coated, not that I would violate this beautiful part, that way.

We used to have a great machine shop in Anacortes, but Bob Marriott, a fellow biker, sold it and whoever bought it no longer does that work. I can look around for a good shop and maybe have a professional do this, if my feet turn cold.

Do you think I am moving in the right direction, with all of your help? Are you thinking a press-in is better than my making a threaded insert that threads into the bored hole and has a 9/16"-24 TPI thread for the oil tank fitting? A press-in, basically an internal thread bushing set in place with Permatex Sleeve Retainer? It does strike me that a pressed in threaded "bushing" would put less stress on the housing, because it would be in a press and pressed straight down, so most likely not much side play. The bushing could be long enough that it bottoms out in that hole and the oil would still flow unimpeded back into the tank? My plan for the 5/8-18 bolt drilled and tapped with internal 9/16"-24 was to coat the threads on the insert with the green loctite, anyway.

So, photos

20220104_123430.jpg20220104_123452.jpg20220104_123958.jpg20220104_123539.jpg

[larry]

I believe the Captain has a lathe and a mill?

[T. Cotten]

The off center condition can be corrected at the boring operation.

That's true, Larry!

A modern shop could bore, thread, and face it on the same machine.

But lacking such resources, I would progressively drill it out to 39/64" or so, and tap it 11/16"-20, if there's enough meat.

A threaded insert is much less likely to split a casting than a pressed insert.

....Cotten
PS: I biased a hole with a die grinder and scraper more times than I should admit.

[Highlander]

I agree, depending upon machining resource capability to accurately machine. Even offset as is, the thin section is only a minute portion of the total circumference.

[larry]

The off center condition can be corrected at the boring operation.