Hd 63805-48 oil filter housing-in need of repair

[stroker]

i would drill hole out over size turn some an insert to a light press fit insert 3/32 below surface then tig weld flush spot face drill and tap

[stroker]

i mean turn a piece round stock to a light press fit

[T. Cotten]

A pressed insert's gonna spin, Stroker...

It's got to be twisted onto the oiltank tight.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

I ordered some solid brass round stock, 3/4", should be able to drill then tap with the 9/16-24, and turn the 3/4 down to use the 11/16-20 die to cut threads and the 11/16-20 tap to make the threads in the housing, after CAREULLY enlarging the hole? Green loctite the insert? Try to center the hole and fill in with the liquid metal? I think you mention a dremel or small cutting tool to bring the hole to the "fat" part of the housing (part I colored red), moving the hole that direction a little and maybe not cut into the thin part, Tom?

[T. Cotten]

Not a day goes by, Cap'n,...

That I don't use a triangular scraper.

Any alternative to hand-carving requires that the housing be fixtured for machining, and that will require creativity.

Boring and threading has always been easiest for me on the lathe. Although it would be conventionally mounted to a faceplate, I have bored pieces while clamped to a toolpost, with a 'spoon' in the lathe chuck. You may be more comfortable to mill-bore it.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

I was trying to figure it out, and mill-bore was all that I could picture working, because of the shape of the part. I'm pretty sure I can clamp/secure the part on the table in a vise, and that will allow me to bring the spindle down to the part, plus move the table back and forth, if we reach agreement on removing some from the "red" marked side. That may make it egg shaped, but I am concerned about the small amount of metal on the "black" marked side. Looking down into the hole, it appears that maybe the whole drilled out portion is at an angle, not just off-center.

I have various sizes of vises and can visualize that process. How I could mount it and have the lathe part work, does not come to me. If I could secure the part, I could still move the table at the bore/bit but I would not see it as well as if the part is standing up and the mill spindle is coming down. Mine is all manual, not CNC, so this is all on me to control the cutting.

The insert will be easy enough, I've done 3, though 2 did not work. Learning as I go. When the brass rod arrives, that will be easier to work with than the first attempts, a piece of aluminum, a pipe and then the 5/8" bolt. This is fun! Scary, but fun. I do not want to damage the oil filter housing. Making the inserts is just time, I can replace those parts and try again. The oil filter housing because of its age is irreplaceable, in my mind, so there is one shot at that.

[T. Cotten]

It shouldn't be that hard to calculate, Cap'n,...

Just how many thou you can move the center of the new hole and still 'clean up'.

It shouldn't go oval unless your spindle isn't stiff enough for an interrupted cut.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Have been working on this; the photos show where I am and give an indication of how I got there.

Made what I planned to be a Jig, to let me move up carefully on the modification, turned out to be more of a gauge, when I could not figure out any way to secure the oil housing to the jig or even the Smithy to allow me to use the Jig. The thought of running a power tool on this part--mill, lathe or drill--was more than I could take. The 3 step jig allowed me to see how far off from center I was at each stage. I used a vise grips on the drill bits to allow me to carve the hole larger in the 3-stage multiple step process, then used reamers to get additional material out when the drill bits did not feel prudent; I also used the drill bits as gauges for the holes to try to not take out too much material at any time. I carved the hole out, manually, using the sneak up on it drill bits and various scraping tools. The hole is moved more center, if not fully center.

Next, I will use some light sanding paper to smooth the surface, then use the tap, using cutting oil. At that point, I will know if there is any sense making the insert. The brass rod arrived yesterday, so if the tap goes well, I will continue.

Which ever way this goes, I will inform you. Again, I very much appreciate your help and I have learned a tremendous amount.

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[CAP'N BOB]

That was the easiest part of all of this! The tap went in with no issues. Stands straight up in the hole. I can move on to making the insert.

Any recommendations on how deep I run the insert into the oil filter housing, once it is made?

The Die Blank Size I found, on-line is 0.6875" major diameter and 0.6262" minor diameter, and it told me to reduce the rod size to 0.6825", with a 30 degree chamfer on the rod to start the die. Is that correct, Tom?


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[T. Cotten]

..The Die Blank Size I found, on-line is 0.6875" major diameter and 0.6262" minor diameter, and it told me to reduce the rod size to 0.6825", with a 30 degree chamfer on the rod to start the die. Is that correct, Tom?

Who am I to question "on-line", Cap'n?

As a "salvage machinist", I was more of metal butcher.

Your instincts should prevail, please trust them!

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Not always easy to trust. I can relate to the metal butcher.

[CAP'N BOB]

As stated, the goal was .6825. Unfortunately, I went past that and hit .6770. As you can see from the photos, there is plenty of meat for the inner threads, and an oil tank fitting of 9/16-24 fits nicely, so it will go on the tank with no issue .

I am a little concerned that the .6770 is too small. The threads are very easy going in until it bottoms out, and maybe, with the green loctite, that will be ok. I am going to try another shot at it, and be more careful when I get close to .6825. It was not easy cutting the threads with the 11/16-20 die, but not dreadful, either. .6825 may be too much to cut with the die, and maybe I will end up between that and where it is now at .6770.

It is close. I thank you, Tom for telling me to go with the 11/16-20, there is plenty of material on the insert, so I have no concern about failure from the insert. It will not collapse as the first two efforts did when I was using the 5/8th, too little wall between the inner and outside. This looks perfect.


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[BigLakeBob]

On a 2A class thread you are only under .001 from the major diameter low limit. That really shouldn't matter. The pitch diameter of the thread is what makes the proper fit. If you decide to make another fitting the only way to make a better fit would be if you have an adjustable die. Open it up for a tighter thread, the pitch would be larger. Good job saving a rare part.

[CAP'N BOB]

Thank you. The die is not adjustable. Never having done this before, the lack of experience makes it difficult to know what is good versus bad.

[CAP'N BOB]

Finished, except, any recommendations on staking this? I used green loctite on the lower half of the insert and Permatex Liquid Metal Filler on the upper half. The filler allows for drilling, filling, sanding, etc. After the filler had set for 4 hours, I cut the part from the brass rod and counter sunk the insert to facilitate installation onto the oil tank. After the green loctite cures for 24 hours, I will install the oil filter housing. That gives me time to stake the insert to the housing, if there are strong recommendations for that (the green loctite is sort of a chemical "stake").



How bad it was: 20220104_123430.jpg


How far it came:
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Not dead center, but better and the threads work.

Again, I want to thank all of you who took the time to help me with this. I believe this was worth every hour spent. It is an old part and it appears to have been saved; until it is on the bike and has oil running through it, I cannot say it is saved. The guidance and recommendations given about this were what allowed me to get this done. Tom Cotten, Highlander, Larry and several others helped me with this and I truly thank each of you. All the comments and recommendations helped me think about this, a lot, and get this far. Thank you, all.