Hd 63805-48 oil filter housing-in need of repair

[CAP'N BOB]

Page two of this thread, post #30, Cap'n,...

The one on the right looks a lot like yours; I guess Plan B would be a goober'd and pressed-in insert, but lets figure how large of tap your housing would safely accept, and consider its availability.

Somewhere I think I have an 11/16", because I highlighted it in my MSC catalog.

....Cotten

What is the one on the left that looks like a push in plug that must fill up the hole enough that the threads of the oil tank fitting force the material out into the threads that are there? But there is a lip and that is what you were saying about a show bike not passing muster. Now I get it. What is that material?

I tried brass shim material, and actually got a solid connection with a fitting, but that did not last long under some stress. This has 17/128 material at the thinnest part.

A 5/8, being the next larger size, maybe?



20220103_145745.jpg20220103_150026.jpg20220103_150109.jpg20220103_152003.jpg



20220103_155443.jpg This is a 41/64 drill, which should let me run a 5/8-18 tap, so If I could use the lathe to make an insert with 9/16-24 inside and 5/8-18 outside thread (since I have a 5/8-18 bolt to work with) that could be carefully threaded into the oil housing and allow a fit?

[CAP'N BOB]

This is the 5/8-18 bolt I am working with and believe I may be able to drill it out and tap it to 9/16-24. I do not know if the housing would take the stress, though. Like you said, Tom, the stress of this may destroy the part.


20220103_161633.jpg20220103_161644.jpg

[T. Cotten]

I found my 11/16"-20 tap, Cap'n!

(And a spare 9/16"-24 tap, too, if anybody needs one....)
By eyeball, it would still leave a sixteenth or so clearance from the edge of the casting on my bad example.

"Shrink fit" is basically what I meant by Plan B, Larry!
But interference by any means risks splitting the casting, and more likely to break loose down the road than a threaded union.

Once again, Cap'n,..
It would make sense to cut a really really long insert, maybe three or more times too long.
Then you could whack one chunk off in case you botch installing the first, leaving the rest long enough not only to grab it in the chuck to install it into the housing, but to then part it off, facing the housing with a square sealing surface at the same time.

...Cotten
PS: Personally, I'd choose brass.

[Tom Wilcock]

Why not just make a new fitting with an oversize thread that will fit into the housing without removing any material from it and possibly destroying it. A sealing compound like Locktite Quick Metal or something else could be used on the threads to fill any gaps.
Tom

[Rubone]

Why not just make a new fitting with an oversize thread that will fit into the housing without removing any material from it and possibly destroying it. A sealing compound like Locktite Quick Metal or something else could be used on the threads to fill any gaps.
Tom

The fitting it screws onto is welded to the oil tank, no way to make one oversized.

[CAP'N BOB]

As Rubone said, welded to the tank. I am working on another insert, one long enough to get at least 3 out of. It is a bolt, as recommended, so has the outside threads, and I'm drilling on my lathe to get down to where I can attempt to tap the inside. God willing, this will do it. My concern is, as Cotten said, destruction of the part. I suppose one way to look at that is that it will be as much of a desk ornament destroyed as not if it is not repairable. I'm going for it is repairable and will be on the bike. Will keep you updated on the progress, and am more than happy to hear of more ideas.
Thank you.

[larry]

The off center condition can be corrected at the boring operation.

[Highlander]

I agree, depending upon machining resource capability to accurately machine. Even offset as is, the thin section is only a minute portion of the total circumference.

[T. Cotten]

The off center condition can be corrected at the boring operation.

That's true, Larry!

A modern shop could bore, thread, and face it on the same machine.

But lacking such resources, I would progressively drill it out to 39/64" or so, and tap it 11/16"-20, if there's enough meat.

A threaded insert is much less likely to split a casting than a pressed insert.

....Cotten
PS: I biased a hole with a die grinder and scraper more times than I should admit.

[larry]

I believe the Captain has a lathe and a mill?

[CAP'N BOB]

Good afternoon.

I do have a Smithy Mill, Drill, Lathe, small but it works. The operator leaves a lot to be desired, but he(I) is always willing to go where angels fear to tread, well, maybe not that adventurous, but...

The attached photos show what I am currently thinking, in line with the above. I have not taken any action on what you see, other than to show that the hole is off center and how I could possibly center it. After I get the threaded insert done, or maybe, now a sleeve to press in, looking at some of the recent posts, ream towards the red marking and fill in with liquid metal on the black of the circle, thereby centering the hole. I have used the liquid metal a fair amount, but nothing like this. I am also a poor to fair welder and have made a sheet metal brake that I used to make oil change pans, welding up the corners, sealing with the liquid metal because my welding is not always perfect. The liquid metal keeps the hot oil from fluid changes in the catch pans I made, I have even used it on parts I then powder coated, not that I would violate this beautiful part, that way.

We used to have a great machine shop in Anacortes, but Bob Marriott, a fellow biker, sold it and whoever bought it no longer does that work. I can look around for a good shop and maybe have a professional do this, if my feet turn cold.

Do you think I am moving in the right direction, with all of your help? Are you thinking a press-in is better than my making a threaded insert that threads into the bored hole and has a 9/16"-24 TPI thread for the oil tank fitting? A press-in, basically an internal thread bushing set in place with Permatex Sleeve Retainer? It does strike me that a pressed in threaded "bushing" would put less stress on the housing, because it would be in a press and pressed straight down, so most likely not much side play. The bushing could be long enough that it bottoms out in that hole and the oil would still flow unimpeded back into the tank? My plan for the 5/8-18 bolt drilled and tapped with internal 9/16"-24 was to coat the threads on the insert with the green loctite, anyway.

So, photos

20220104_123430.jpg20220104_123452.jpg20220104_123958.jpg20220104_123539.jpg

[CAP'N BOB]

Oh, I mis-read that, the press would put too much stress on the part and the threaded insert would be safer, sorry. I am open to whatever works the best, and you all have a lot more experience than I do..

[larry]

Is this what you have? smithy.png

[CAP'N BOB]

I have a CB-1220 XL, Lathe-Mill-Drill that I bought in June 1998. Not super sophisticated, but useful for what little I do. It can do a lot more than I know how to do. It was money well spent, for me.

[larry]

It looks like enough machine to do this job. Use a boring bar to center the hole and go slow