Hd 63805-48 oil filter housing-in need of repair

[CAP'N BOB]

Are they all off center like the one on the right, Tom? That looks just about like the one I am working on.

This is a short status and request for comments.

I made an aluminum insert and it promptly collapsed. Working on a mild steel insert on the lathe, now. I have the 9/16-24 TPI threads cut on the inside of the insert and am running the outside down to fit the hogged out oil filter housing. The problem I see coming is that the oil filter housing is just barely over 9/16 (the oil fitting drops in, not leaving much slack but not catching the threads that are in the oil filter housing either), which means to me, the insert will need to be Very thin. I hesitate to drill out any more material than is already gone, but maybe I will need to do that to get the insert to get purchase (no matter what it is made from). If I can get just close enough, but not too thin, it will work. The hole measures 69/128, and there are threads deeper than that, since the 9/16 oil fitting drops in and pulls out, no turning, so not engaging any threads. The insert is at 79/128, as far as it has been machined down. The (future) insert is tapped 9/16-24 to about a 1/2 inch of thread.


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[T. Cotten]

Are they all off center like the one on the right, Tom?

Except those like the one on the left, Cap'n!

Those are the only two I've held in my hand.

Steel makes sense, stainless, or even brass.

But aren't you going to oversize and tap the damaged housing before you cut an insert to fit?
(I'd make it really long, so you can twist it in tight, let the goober set up, and then whack it off.)

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Well. crap! Kept working and got down to 74/128, and set the end mill too deep on the next run, taking the threads, So, where I had 1/2 inch, it is not 1/4" :-(

Start on number 3 attempt, tomorrow. Maybe I need to modify the housing, make the hole a little larger. I sure do not want to do that. I guess I will be compelled to increase the size of the hole, like you said Tom. I do that with Time-Sert, of course, but this just seems different, being a 1948 part, and all.

Back at it tomorrow.

[T. Cotten]

You lost me with Time-Sert, Cap'n,.

I hope you just mean the oversize tap?

...Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

A company, make a great product. Like HeliCoil, only MUCH better. This is their site: https://time-sert.com/

The kits come with an oversize tap and everything to replace threads. Once I found them, I sold all my HeliCoil kits on eBay. It is an amazing product. I tried their site to see if I could find the inserts I am now trying to make, to save this piece of history, but the 9/16-24 is an odd enough size that they do not appear to produce a kit for them. If they did, we would not have had all of this conversation. I am glad to have had the conversation, I learned a lot from it. Just like all I've learned, putting the 1948 together. Not only adding mechanical skills, but developing a greater appreciation for the people who keep these old bikes running. Amazing. Thank you.

[joe fxs fxr]

A friend of mine used to make thin wall sleeves, etc. on his lathe using titanium bolts. They are stronger than steel but tough to machine. A bolt big enough for you would be expensive if you can't get the from where you work, like he did.

[rms337]

Funny to see this. I just ordered a Timesert kit for a fix on 1/4-24 hole on the Indian. After no luck in finding options for helicoil in that size, I came across Timesert mentioned in a youtube video. Thought I would give it a shot to help save a part.

[CAP'N BOB]

I swear by Time-Sert. They call it an "over the fender" repair, meaning, you can fix treads without removing a part. If you are careful, you can repair spark plug threads (replace) without disassembling the head. Grease and care, no filings in the head. Amazing product.

[CAP'N BOB]

A friend of mine used to make thin wall sleeves, etc. on his lathe using titanium bolts. They are stronger than steel but tough to machine. A bolt big enough for you would be expensive if you can't get the from where you work, like he did.

Thank you. That is a thought. A really good thought, actually. Cut the bolt head off before chucking it up. Put the bolt in the jaw and run drill bits into it on the lathe, working slowly until it is up to the size that allows a 9/16-24 tap, and the outside threads are there, already. I am going to try that. May not use titanium, at least for the first one, but I like this idea, a lot. Thank you, Joe.

[T. Cotten]

I swear by Time-Sert. They call it an "over the fender" repair, meaning, you can fix treads without removing a part. If you are careful, you can repair spark plug threads (replace) without disassembling the head. Grease and care, no filings in the head. Amazing product.

I've got nothing against commercial inserts, Cap'n!

It just seems like it won't solve your problem; Making an insert for an insert just adds another place to seal, and another place to come loose.

I wouldn't plan anything until you have fresh oversize threads cut in the casting, and then just cut a single insert.

Uh oh. There isn't a common tap that won't bust out the wall...

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Oh, no, Tom, I did not mean an insert in an insert, I plan to make one insert that will fit into the oil filter housing, sorry, I was not clear on that. I agree, an insert in an insert would be a bad idea.

Here is what I think I know and my (current) plan: the oil line fitting on the tank is 9/16-24; drill out the housing to take a 5/8-18 thread insert; drill the housing with a 41/64 drill bit; and tap with a 5/8-18. I have a piece of 5/8-18 from an old bolt and plan to drill that out with a 37/64 drill bit and tap to 9/16-24. Then, use green loctite on the insert I make that goes into the oil filter housing, which should make it as solid as anything, being sleeve/bushing loctite.

Am I on the right track, or were you saying the tap will destroy the housing?

[T. Cotten]

Its back to that core-float thing, Cap'n!

How much meat does your particular casting have around the hole?

My example without much float could probably take a 3/4" tap (but its got perfect threads).

And I put calipers on a 5/8" tap, and it doesn't look like enough clearance between bottoms of the threads and the tops of 9/16" threads. You'd have daylight.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

I will measure.

I cannot find your example on Core-Float, Tom. Could you send it again, please?

Bob

[T. Cotten]

Page two of this thread, post #30, Cap'n,...

The one on the right looks a lot like yours; I guess Plan B would be a goober'd and pressed-in insert, but lets figure how large of tap your housing would safely accept, and consider its availability.

Somewhere I think I have an 11/16", because I highlighted it in my MSC catalog.

....Cotten

[larry]

Shrink fit would work.