Hd 63805-48 oil filter housing-in need of repair

[CAP'N BOB]

20211231_114249.jpg20211231_114315.jpg20211231_114322.jpg20211231_114332.jpg20211231_115300.jpg Good afternoon and Happy New Year. I am restoring a 1948 for a customer. Part of what he brought to me is an oil filter housing and canister. The housing has the number 63805-48 and a number 9 or 6 stamped inside. I believe this to be a true 1948 part and worth saving. The issue is that the internal (female) threads that allows the housing to attach to the tank with the permanent fitting is hogged out. There are threads, but I'm guessing that was an insert of some kind because I found part of the insert inside. The cause may be because the female threaded portion of the housing is off-center. I was able to get the housing on, but never able to adjust it or make it tight. The half-moon mark on the housing is from where I ran the housing in tight to the tank and the housing was pointing straight up, causing me to inspect it. I use Time-Serts, but cannot find one of theirs that is the correct size insert. I've checked many sources, and do not come up with an insert.

Any help would be most appreciated. It may be that this could be repaired without an insert (welding?), but not by me.

Thank you for your help.

[larry]

Do you have a lathe?

[CAP'N BOB]

I do, a Smithy Mill Drill Lathe, though, I must admit I am very good at using it. What do you have in mind?

[larry]

The thread you're trying to repair is 1/8 npt. You can make an insert to accomplish that. Done properly, it will hardly be noticed. You could alternatively tap for a larger pipe thread and use a reducer, but that will be easily seen.

[CAP'N BOB]

It is the hole in the oil filter housing that is stripped out, and the oil tank fitting measures just over 1/2 inch, so I think the NPT would be 1/4. I put an oil tank fitting in the housing to show how easy it drops in versus being screwed in. I think you are telling me to machine threads, something I have never done. If it is like a Time-sert, there is an external thread and an internal thread on the insert, the tapped hole for the external thread of the insert would be larger than the 1/4 oil tank fitting and a little larger than the hogged out hole in the oil filter housing, while the internal thread of the insert would be the 1/4 NPT tapered thread and the insert is basically swedged in place with a driver, after cutting the threads with a tap. I use that process fairly often and have multiple size kits from Time-sert, but cannot think how I'd make my own insert, sorry.

[larry]

Purchase a good one.

[T. Cotten]

The horizontal hole is 9/16"-24, Cap'n!

(The vertical hole is 1/8" NPT.)

I have two, but if I were to repair one, I would cut an oversized aluminum insert, and bore and thread the casting.

....Cotten

[exeric]

I would cut an oversized aluminum insert, and bore and thread the casting....Cotten

That's what I would do, and have done in the past on delicate castings. Welding, and re-threading would be a last resort for a number of reasons.

[larry]

The horizontal hole is 9/16"-24, Cap'n!

(The vertical hole is 1/8" NPT.)

I have two, but if I were to repair one, I would cut an oversized aluminum insert, and bore and thread the casting.

....Cotten

Is there an early and a late casting?

[T. Cotten]

Is there an early and a late casting?

I believe, Larry,...

The '50+ versions were the same casting, but 1/8"NPT on both holes, and also drilled for the center mounting stud.

I had a hard time getting a good, secure seal between the housing and the oiltank, and still keep it vertical.

Today, I'd grab a scrap o' PEEK and cut something. If anybody needs some, whether for seals, wristpin buttons, or whatever, please feel free to email me direct at liberty@npoint.net.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

The horizontal hole is 9/16"-24, Cap'n!

(The vertical hole is 1/8" NPT.)

I have two, but if I were to repair one, I would cut an oversized aluminum insert, and bore and thread the casting.

....Cotten

9/16-24 is what I measure, Tom, but that confused me because it is pipe thread, right? and that is NPT, and 1/8 NPT, as I measure it. The housing threads are so screwed up (no pun intended), that I have no idea what those are, but the normal(?) oil line/tank fitting drops in, as you can see in the photos. What is PEEK? I like the idea of an insert and think I can handle that. I do not want to discard this 1948 part. It is old and has value, just because of that. I want to fix it!

I just looked up PEEK. I like that idea. When I did have the housing on and the oil line hooked up to it, it leaked but felt like it was wedged in enough that it would not come out, so with a "filler"/insert that should do the trick.

I am going to send you a message and ask to order some from you. Thank you.

Bob

[Rubone]

Those fittings are NOT pipe thread. The 9/16-24 is correct and they are straight threads with the taper to seal. A pocket could be cut, threaded, and an insert installed without disturbing the tapered portion. Those filter caps were discontinued early on due to issues they had with leakage and causing breakage of the oil tank at the fitting.

[larry]

All my castings are 1/8 pipe. I've never seen the 9/16. I learned something today.

[Rubone]

All my castings are 1/8 pipe. I've never seen the 9/16. I learned something today.

The 1/8 pipe are the '50 up upgrade for remote mounting with the center screw on the top. The early cap screwed directly onto the tank, an extremely poor design.

[T. Cotten]

The leakage issue with them, Folks,...

Is that there could never be a compression taper within the casting, as it would inpossible to keep indexed to vertical.

So apparently there was a seal between it and the tank, of appropriate thickness.

....Cotten
PS: PEEK works great for the bottom of the canister, too!