Has anyone had trouble mounting 5.00x16 Shinko tires to a standard Kelsy Hayes H-D 16" rim? I have hand mounted many motorcycles tires, including clincher tires, and this Shinko tire is too small for the rim. Absolutely will not go on. The tire is new, and we had a nice hot sunny day here in Florida so the tire was pliable. Appreciate any comments.
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I had Shinko tires professionally mounted (machine) on my ‘58 Panhead original rims several years ago without any issues. By the way, these tires wear very well. And they are inexpensive compared to other well known brands.Richard Spagnolli
AMCA #6153
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Eric,
I run Shinko's on all my pans (5) and love them. Knuckles (5+) get Avon's. As Richard said they last longer are cheaper and speed rated which others are not. I used to change them myself by hand but got tired of tire spoons/irons flying all over the place so I take them to a Jap bike shop close by and have them mounted and balanced by them. For $40 it isn't worth it to me to break/bend something or put an eye out with flying tools. If I changed them more often I think I would invest in at least a manual tire changer but have too many bikes to ride so tires last a few seasons before they need to be replaced. Good luck!
Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766
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I had Shinko's on my '70 Shovel, worst tires I have ever had on a motorcycle. Bad death wobble. Turned out the rear tire was "out of round" per Shinko, they sent me a new one. All the labor was on me. Second tire was better but riding solo I would still get a wobble at highway speed. Riding to Terryville I had to slow down to 45 MPH to get it to stop. Went to modern Dunlops and all of my troubles have gone away. I would never use them again, glad others are having better results. Intended speed could be a factor, my FLH will cruise at 70 MPH all day, maybe on something intended for back roads and 45 MPH only would have a different result. Good luck.
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I have done numerous road runs and chapter rides etc. and never had any wobble issues or steering problems. Primarily on my 64 pan. Don't like to but have been up to 70 (trying to catch up to the pack) on them with no issues. Buy and mount what you feel comfortable with would be my advice. Modern tires and "replica" tire are no way going to ride or handle the same way. You might want to check out other things if you are having handling issues. Swing arm bearings, steering head adjustment,. shocks, front end adjustments etc. It may not be the tires. Do you get them balanced when you mount them? I have seen a fair amount of out of round tires over the years. Usually if you get with the supplier they will make good on replacing them the hassle is the double mounting effort you go through. Pain in the rear but better than crashing! As I said earlier at least Shinko's are speed rated the others aren't except modern tires.
Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766
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I’ve used these tires without issues for awhile now and think they are an excellent value and have the right look. Maybe it’s me but I’ve noticed with several different brands that some tire mount easier than others. One thing I have noticed with the shinko 5.00-16 tires is the profile seems a little wider and makes the rear tire a fight to get off the brake drum and out the frame or swingarm when on a star hub. Anyone have this issue?
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Just mounted a SHINKO tire on my 16 in rim and used the zip tie method. I used soft soap as a bead lube and have to say it went on rather easily.
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Interesting. I've been running shinkos on all 8 bikes since 2014/2015 when the price of my preferred bridgestones doubled. I've gotten excellent life out of them averaging 10K miles on rears and 15K on fronts. In 18" models, I've ridden them at sustained 100mph+ and in the winter down to 10 degrees F. I often recommend them to others as the bargain of the beer cooler.
They are not the "newest" tech - but they aren't crazy old either. Almost all the molds and the rubber formulas are Yokohama. Yoko sold their tooling and formulas to Shinko's holding company. So, what we really have in these tires is late 1990s tech.
Late 90s tech is still loads better than a lot of "vintage pattern" tires being sold.
I've mounted a couple dozen sets for myself and others on everything from 350 thumpers to 1100 goldwings. In every case the rear was much more of a fight than other brands. However, I had one instance where a buddy's ex cut the valve stems -- yet the stiff sidewall and bead let him handle the unexpected deflation with safety. Similarly, two other buddies either tore tubes or got a puncture and again the rear didn't shift and much like a tubeless they were able to safely slow down. I've personally had more than one rear tire spin on the rim during a deflation and nearly pitch me over the high side. As such, I don't mind fighting a stiffer tire if it stays put on the rim during an emergency.
I haven't tried the zip tie approach -- I have a craptastic amount of tire irons and simply bite them 1 inch at a time. Really should get a tire changer . . .and never have.
I do have four tires to mount right now . . .and might need to try out this zip tie approach just because.
My favorite bead breaker was a 2x4 and the truck bumper; but I bought these motion pro irons and the built in bead breaker is a breeze:
https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08...44469715&psc=1
I did not pay this much for the irons . . .but they are lovely and very easy to use. I haven't fought a bead since I got them -- including removing some 20-25 year old tires that didn't flex at all.
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