53' Fender Badge

[ssantelman]

One of my OHV Deluxe fender Badges has a broken 6-32 stud. See the attached photo. The threaded piece on the right is a set screw.

Any idea on how to repair this without destroying it in the process?

[ssantelman]

The welders I know who TIG are shying away from this one.

I think I will take a hex bolt, 6-32, grind the head thickness down to about .030" and grind the broken stud off. Then I will epoxy the new stud in place. I can make a jig to hold position and squareness while the epoxy sets up.

[T. Cotten]

Ssantelman!

I am only familiar with repops...
Is yours potmetal, or brass?

If its brass, just dress it flat and clean, cut a thin, flat top on a screw, tin both surfaces, and solder it.

....Cotten

[exeric]

As Tom said, if it's brass, you could have success with solder. Personally, I would forget about attaching a new stud, and just glue it on, or used double sided tape on the broken stud side. There are automotive panel adhesives that are as strong as a weld. You already have 2 holes in your fender, and you're never going to take the badge off so use a modern super adhesive. As nice as those badges are, it would be a pity to heat damage the finish, or have a poorly adhered stud break off while your riding.

[T. Cotten]

As Tom said, if it's brass, you could have success with solder. Personally, I would glue it on, or used double sided tape on the broken stud side. There are automotive panel adhesives that are as strong as a weld. You already have 2 holes in your fender, and you're never going to take the badge off so use a modern super adhesive. As nice as those badges are, it would be a pity to heat damage the finish.

Eric!

The heat of soldering shouldn't hurt the other side (if its brass).
Use an iron, not a torch....

....Cotten
PS: AMWAY's Oven and Grill coating is one of the best 'snake oils' I've pulled out of the dumpster, as I routinely torch out detente balls on carbs without any effect upon original nickel finishes around them.

[Chris Haynes]

Use some JB Weld and don't over tighten it again.

[ssantelman]

The badges are plated brass; I scratched the plating next to the broken stud.

I will open and flatten a bushing and try my hand at soldering a screw to it. Thanks for the insight.

[T. Cotten]

..I will open and flatten a bushing...

???

After scrupulous prep, use "Rubyfluid" to tin both the badge back and shaved-flat screw head before jigging them (if necessary), and apply heat to the screw with a large iron.

Patience!

....Cotten

[exeric]

Glue always sounds like a half-assed fix, but I think I would trust it over a solder joint. I agree with Tom, that a high amp soldering iron is the only way to go for a clean solder repair. I just remember spending an hour combing a busy stretch of highway, looking for a genuine fender tip that let go. Studs were still in the fender though

[T. Cotten]

Glue always sounds like a half-assed fix, but I think I would trust it over a solder joint. ...

Eric!

Time for a double-positive:

Yeah, right.

...Cotten

[exeric]

I'm not saying to glue a new stud on, I'm saying to glue the studless side of the emblem onto the fender. Silver solder is the only fix that I think would hold up to the vibration, and possible "spring tension". Unfortunately, silver solder will change the color of the emblem due to heat. That's just my opinion, I gave it in the spirit of trying to be helpful. I am not a shill for the industrial glue complex

[T. Cotten]

I'm not saying to glue a new stud on, I'm saying to glue the studless side of the emblem onto the fender...

Hmmm, Eric!

Wouldn't it then read: VHO?

(Sorry in advance, I couldn't help myself....)

Silver solder is the only fix that I think would hold up to the vibration, and possible "spring tension". Unfortunately, silver solder will change the color of the emblem due to heat. That's just my opinion, I gave it in the spirit of trying to be helpful. I am not a shill for the industrial glue complex

If the replacement stud is as I described, a shaved screw with a flat retained at the base of its head, then the tension is between the nut and the flat screw head against the fender with the badge retained by the solder.

How much force does a badge put on its fasteners?

And certainly silver-solder has more tensile strength, if really necessary since the screw should support it all.
If really worried about the badge, then wrap it in a wet cloth, and skillfully silver-solder it. "Skillfully" is the key word. I might be able to do it (not offering: http://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/bbo...+announcements), but I'm sure there are many, many jewelers out there who could do it better.

Soft solder should be better than Gorilla Glue and peeling the paint upon removal.

....Cotten

[Guest]

glue the thing on there and forget about it.

[T. Cotten]

glue the thing on there and forget about it.

Let the next generation worry about it, huh Gerry!

....Cotten

[exeric]

This is my last comment on this topic, even though I love shooting the breeze. Who cares if it hurts the paint upon removal. The only reason to take the emblem off is because someone in the future may want to repaint the fender. If it an OP fender, on an OP motorcycle pay the dough for good, genuine emblems; or pay a jeweler to possibly screw up the one you have. If you glue it on, and need to take it off, you could probably use a heat gun to soften the glue enough to remove it. . . We have now reached the depth of my hypothetical B.S. on fender emblem fastening