Steering Head Lock

[T. Cotten]

To prevent the plunger from getting 'stuck' at the back end of the bore.

Gimme a break, Rooster!

The detente on the core might break first?
(You already said the spring was weak...)

What keeps it from getting stuck forward?
(Its obviously more likely to get pinched by the forkstem than the bore in the headstock. The "engineers" just couldn't figure out how to add a spring there!)

....Cotten

[Rooster]

I post on this forum to help others when I think I am able to, based on my experience and knowledge. NO, I do not post a lot.
I do NOT post on this forum to argue with keyboard jockeys who apparently have nothing better to do than argue with other members- over the most asinine and trivial details which mean nothing to people who actually work on and ride their motorcycles.
Goodbye, Cotton.

[RAWHIDEROCKY]

Cotton, My Plunger is stuck forward. What to do? Do I have to Remove the Lock??
1957 Frame, I got a Key made for the Lock.
The Key locks and unlocks but only moves the Plunger just a small amount in and out. I'll keep working it, trying to get more movement.
Tried some pB Blaster to lossen thing up. We will see.

How far back into the Neck does the Plunger go? Even to the Inside of the Neck?
Thanks for any info.

[aumick10]

Not specific to your bike, and probably won't help you now, but I have always used graphite powder only on any locks.

[Rubone]

Not specific to your bike, and probably won't help you now, but I have always used graphite powder only on any locks.

Graphite powder is great to keep a lock working, but when they are rusted stuck.....

The Key locks and unlocks but only moves the Plunger just a small amount in and out.

If it turns all the way to the locked and unlocked positions and does not move the plunger it is most likely broken at the stem to camplate connection.

[aumick10]

If the barrel will rotate from the locked to unlocked position, this part is obviously not seized.

I am not familiar with these locks but if the barrel rotates, in theory it should be possible to remove the barrel. If the stem is broken off, the barrel will come out and the stem should remain in the neck. Then you can try to remove it. It is probably hardened, so hard to drill.

If the stem is not broken, you might need to get the barrel ready to remove, then use a slide hammer to remove the assembly. This won't do anything good to your lock assembly.

Good luck with whatever you use to get it out.
Cheers

[T. Cotten]

RawhideRocky!

The 'plunger' moves all the way into a hole in the fork stem.
The fork must be cocked to the left to engage it.

The lock core is secured by either a screw with its head chiseled off, or a roll pin for some later models.

Preferably with a left-hand drill bit, the screw must be carefully drilled away until the core releases.
Roll pins aren't as friendly.
At least you have a key to help pull the core when loose!

Ultimately, the fork should be completely disassembled for cleaning, with the plunger removed out the welch plug hole at the very front.

Patience, and Good Luck!

....Cotten

[RAWHIDEROCKY]

Thanks Cotton....for the pics.
I got a little move movement on the Plunger end today, but not enough into the recessed hole.
The inside of the Frame shows rust, so it's probably just rusted in there.

I am wanting to put a Springer Front End on this Frame, so the Lock will not work anyway.

Left Hand Drill Bit sounds interesting. What Size is Best?
Did see the welsch plug as being the only way to get it out.
Thanks again.

[Chris Haynes]

I am wanting to put a Springer Front End on this Frame, so the Lock will not work anyway..

It will work just fine if you drill a hole in the stem as they did in 1948.

[RAWHIDEROCKY]

Dat's One Big Hole.....

[T. Cotten]

It will work just fine if you drill a hole in the stem as they did in 1948.

My '49 has a hole, too, Chris!

(It was a Package Truck honest! Just ignore that Knuck motor.)

Can't remember drill sizes, RHR,
..its been decades.

But I do remember filing the remaining nub of the screw so I could center upon it, and of course I went smaller..
And when everything was fresh, I would tap the hole for a set screw, and cap over it with paint.

Its a pretty good design; Until you forget about it. It dropped me right in front of the Dealership.

Nobody was looking.

....Cotten
PS: Typically, RHR,... the hole gets bigger with age.
PPS: Your springer is a tweaked "off-set", right?

[RAWHIDEROCKY]

The Springer is Inline, but it's Over. 1942 ELC Springer.

[T. Cotten]

Still worth locking, RHR!

....Cotten