Steering Head Lock

[JSB55]

Hi, All ... got a locksmith coming over shortly to see about a new key for the steering head lock on the 65 FL, and thought I'd try to kill two birds with one stone...

On the 65 FLH I built a few years back, I installed a B and S steering head lock I had gotten from Bills. Tested it several times before and after putting the front end on, but after a few uses, the key now rotates 360 in either direction with no effect on the lock (fortunately, it's in the unlocked position). From reading other threads, it sounds like I could just pull the lock (assuming we can get the roll pin out) and either drop in another lock, or reposition the current one so it better engages the plunger. Can't remember if I have the little spring in there behind the plunger or not.

I'm guessing either the lock broke, or it has backed out just enough to not engage the plunger. Am I reading correctly that I can replace the lock without taking the front end off, snagging the plunger out of there, etc?

I know that lock provides next to no "security", but I'm OCD enough to like to keep everything in working order.

[Rooster]

Yes, the lock cylinder is independent of the plunger pin. If you can remove the cylinder retaining pin, the lock cylinder itself can be removed.
However..... the retaining pin is actually a roll pin, hollow not solid. It's difficult to remove. I've seen very limited success with a Tig welder welding a piece of filler rod to it as a purchase point for gripping, twisting, and removing. I did say "very limited success". After several failed attempts, the process usually reverts to melting the old lock out, focusing on the area of the roll pin, then pushing the pin back out from the inside.
Either way involves heat and ruined paint. The area of ruined paint is usually contained within the triangle area of the steering head casting that contains the lock. Touchup paint is doable.

It does sound like the lock was not inserted deep enough to fully and properly engage the plunger pin. You can do all this work without removing the front end, but let me ask you this- how will you know the replacement lock is properly engaged providing full function?
Usually shortcuts are for the lazy, and seldom serve success.

[upsrod]

I think they all turn 360 with the key inserted. Turn the front end to the left and turn the lock 180 and it should be locked, remove the key.

[JSB55]

If only it were that easy, Upsrod.

Thanks, Rooster. As luck would have it, I left about a sixteenth of the roll pin sticking up when I installed, so maybe my tiny needle nose or something the locksmith has will be able to wiggle it out a tad. If I can then figure out where on the lock body to cut a tiny detente for the roll pin, maybe I can get it working like it did when I first installed it. Not a function issue, anyway, since the thing rarely leaves my sight unless it's locked in the garage.

[upsrod]

If you didn't drill a hole in the lock body for the pin to go into, the lock has probably backed out and not moving the pin into the neck hole.

[T. Cotten]

My approach Folks,..

Was to tap the hole for a set screw that would hold the core firmly, and so it would be removeable if ever necessary.
Then I capped over the screw with some autobody filler, and hid it with a dab of paint.

....Cotten

[craig (DE)]

Great tip Cotten!

I'm still trying to find a local locksmith who will cut a replacement key for my'65!

[Guest]

I think that guy just called you lazy.

[T. Cotten]

I think that guy just called you lazy.

My wife agrees, if you're talking to me!

Back to topic:
The spring behind the plunger seems like cocking a gun and putting it to your head, just hoping the core never works outward like JSB55's while your doing a left turn.

It works just fine without it.

...Cotten
PS: I believe earlier models (including Indians) used a screw, probably self-tapping, rather than a roll pin. Usually a nub where the head was chiseled off indicated it so you could drill it out with a left-hand bit.
Roll-pins are a real pain, because they were hardened.

[JSB55]

Somebody called me lazy??? I prefer the term "Personal Energy Conservationist"...

Saw the post about your method elsewhere on the forum, Cotten, and lo and behold, the smallest tap I have is ... *drumroll* ... 4-40, and a 10 pack of 4-40 x 3/16 set screws goes for $5.99 on Amazon. And by wiggling the lock with an inserted key while grasping a smidge of the exposed roll pin, I managed to pull the lock, complete with a nice scratch down the side showing me where I need a little indentation for either the roll pin or a set screw to engage.

Progress ...

[T. Cotten]

Gosh, JSB55,...

That should get you a hundred-lot from MSC or McMaster-Carr, I think.

Hope the shipping and handling makes up the difference!

....Cotten
PS: Mine came out of a dumpster, honest. (But that was 'back in the day' before the Crash o' 'O8. There has been no 'recovery' at the bottom of the food chain.)

[Rooster]

If you didn't drill a hole in the lock body for the pin to go into, the lock has probably backed out and not moving the pin into the neck hole.

Exactly, Rod. The locks from Bill's Custom Cycle - and other places, he hasn't cornered the market- must be drilled about 1/16" into the lock body. The huge drawback of this method is that the new hole is now 1/64" larger than the original hole as used by the stock solid retaining pin.
And the lock does rotate freely 360 degrees.
The spring behind the plunger is not strong enough to push the plunger into the fork stem under any circumstances; especially if ample grease was used upon installation.
Which reminds me that it doesn't hurt to occasionally grease the plunger on any machine in which the original lock still exists. How? Just hold the grease gun tip against the weep hole under the plunger bore, and pump away. Most of the grease will make a big blobby mess, but *some* will be forced up in and around the plunger, eventually becoming visible in the key slot. I can't tell you how many stuck plungers I've seen, but I can tell you why most fork locks fail.....
Why *grease*? Because grease fills the voids, discouraging the formation of corrosion.

(I know I left this conversation open for the many different ways to lubricate the lock and plunger, but as long as it's on our personal Periodic Maintenance Chart, it will have served its purpose. Just don't use WD-40; ask any locksmith.)

[Rooster]

.....I managed to pull the lock, complete with a nice scratch down the side showing me where I need a little indentation for either the roll pin or a set screw to engage.

Regardless of where the 'scratch' is, the correct orientation for the key slot is 90* - exactly perpendicular - to the plunger pin.

[T. Cotten]

Grease is a 'good thing', Rooster!

But if the spring isn't strong enough to do anything, then why use it at all?

The detente on the back of the core does everything.

....Cotten

[Rooster]

...But if the spring isn't strong enough to do anything, then why use it at all?....Cotten

To prevent the plunger from getting 'stuck' at the back end of the bore.