Installing exhaust pipes/muffler...

[rustynuts]

seems almost there

thank you for responding, especially for your input Steve. i believe the clamps in my photo are actually servicar types. but i guess they could still fit. when all else fails- check Palmer's. hope he's right on this one. also the 36 parts book.

anyway, i have another set, correct style (i think). and once the tabs are twisted like you so clearly described, and then tightened and loosened a few times, they fit. when these pieces have never been together before, they act like they don't want to be. But it's a beautiful exhaust when it's fitted together correctly. so many of these fishtails end up twisted in all sorts of directions because of ill fitting pipes. you can see it a mile away. Hey, if it was easy, everyone would be doing it.

the lesson here is to fit up these parts on the bike before finishing them, duh. I am now re-spraying 2 front header pipes and 2 S pipes and a rear header pipe. 2 OEM and 2 repop and one unkown, so after 4 days, not counting an extra day for paint drying, I should be able to move on. the difference in the OEM front pipe and the repop front pipe (that I have): the repop bumps the case bolt, but the OEM curves upward a little more so that it doesn't. the repop is also a longer at both ends. probably left long by the maker on purpose. no kinks or deflections in the OEM, repop not so much.

my rear header pipe (repop) was nearly an inch too long. but once it was shortened, the muffler fell into place nicely and i got clearance for the brake shaft lever. muffler clamp was a piece of cake after dealing with the fronts. still not really satisfied with the stress the rear pipe seems to make on the cylinder.

these pipes have to be shoved in pretty hard b/c of their diameter (repop seems larger than OEM). they are a tight fit in the exh spigot. there was enamel paint in the opening from the cylinder respray, but i got that out. and the ceramic paint on the pipes has to be nearly sanded off before the pipes will really even fit in to the spigot.

So I worry these are too stressed, but there is nothing I can do about that now. if the OEM front pipe wasn't dented up I think I would be home free. As is, I'm moving on- but I have a feeling this system will need some improvement before I have an up and over the pass bike.

thanks again all for the replies.

[PSANTORA]

Knucklehead exhaust

It seems that the big problem with the fitting of the Knucklehead exhaust systems is the rear header pipe. I have had that pipe faithfully reproduced and have sold quite a few without a single complaint. They are long at the exhaust port end and do need to be trimmed. The pipes that I had reproduced are being sold by another vendor, however I had another batch made and they are available for $67.00 + shipping each. Quanity discounts available. Feel free to call, if you don't like the part return it for the cost of shipping only. AMCA handle PSANTORA Thanks, Phil 216-312-4098

[Robert Luland]

So once again the twelve pack and a bible thing holds firm. Told ya so! Bob L

[Steve Little]

The rear header pipe that I purchased from the Olsons may have been one of yours as I bought it from them about 12 months ago.

It seems that the big problem with the fitting of the Knucklehead exhaust systems is the rear header pipe. I have had that pipe faithfully reproduced and have sold quite a few without a single complaint. They are long at the exhaust port end and do need to be trimmed. The pipes that I had reproduced are being sold by another vendor, however I had another batch made and they are available for $67.00 + shipping each. Quanity discounts available. Feel free to call, if you don't like the part return it for the cost of shipping only. AMCA handle PSANTORA Thanks, Phil 216-312-4098

[bobdo]

Rustynuts,
This might be an old thread & this info may be too late, but...
I might have misled you unintentionaly in my earlier post. I found info on a front header pipe clamp on the AAOK website that states that the clamp you have in your pic is correct for a '47, actually 1937 - '47. The clamp I had mentioned is also shown on that website, it states that it is for a 1936 model. That's assuming the website is correct.

[len dowe]

you have the wrong clamps.

[rustynuts]

thanks Bob, and all others. it's never too late to acquire useful information. and yes, the clamps i started with were not correct for EL. though i made them fit (as shown in photo). so i tried another set like the ones shown for Els in Palmer's (duh) and once i tweaked them a little, they fit correctly.

no big deal, now that i look back. just another lesson learned. hey, if it was easy, everyone would be doing it.

[len dowe]

I believe the ones in palmers book are not correct. they should be straight and not offset as shown.

[bobdo]

Len,
When you say "straight", do you mean centered, perpendicular to the center of the opening?
" Offset", do you mean tangent to the edge of the round, like a letter "b" ? I just want to make sure I'm clear on this.
The clamps I have for my 47EL are both "b" shaped. Also, from what I can tell of the two front header pipe clamps, only
the header pipe clamp tabs are angled or "tweaked". The frame clamp is left as is with no angle. Is this correct?
Thanks, Bob

[len dowe]

Bob,
I mean centered like a "C" and angled for the header pipe and centered like a "C" for the frame clamp with no angle. The header clamp needs to be on the front side of the frame clamp. Couple of pics for you...First 2 is the setup on my 38el. 3rd pic is the header clamp. 4th pic is how it should mount up(header pipe on left in front of frame clamp as pictured). Clamp on the left is the correct header clamp, (centered and angled). Clamp on the right is not the correct frame clamp( i don't have another oem one for my 38uh project). Correct frame clamp should be smaller and not crimped on the end but centered and not angled like the clamp on the right(clamp on the right is correct for a servi front muffler- battery box exhaust strap). When you have the right clamps and installed as pictured, it fits right up and should be no problems at all. As far as the rear header pipe fitting into the muffler,i use a rubber mallet and tap at the rear of the muffler when the muffler is lowered at the rear tapping as i raise it into the rear header pipe and squish pipe at the same time. You need to twist the rear header pipe a little and it should go right in all the way raising the rear of the muffler to the mount hole in the frame.. Taken my exhaust more times than i can count and it always goes right in for me..Need any more help just let me know... Len
Note: Looking straight at the header clamp,,angle should be top of clamp to the right, bottom of clamp to the left. If you hold it up square to the front header you will see that the angle is right in line with the frame and frame clamp.
P.s. Anybody that has an oem frame front header mount clamp, please let me know as i need it for the 38uh...thanks.

[len dowe]

i believe the clamps in my photo are actually servicar types.

The clamps you have are for 45"

[bobdo]

Len, Thank you..very helpful & perfectly clear.
Earlier I was a little confused,
quote: I believe the ones in palmers book are not correct. they should be straight and not offset as shown.
I remember Palmers book showed a pic of clamps like you just provided. I'm going to look for "C" shaped clamps.
Thanks again for the help, I'm sure others will find it helpful also. -Bob

[len dowe]

Your right Bob. On pg 493 it does show the clamps. Hard to see the angle on the header clamp. My sincere apology to you and Bruce...

[bobdo]

No need to apologize to me Len, I appreciate the help.
You mentioned the first two pics were on your 38EL? They look to be higher up than Chris' factory pic that has the frame clamp just above the sidecar loop casting. I usually see them there. I'm asking because I made a pair of clamps because I couldn't find them. I used images of clamps like yours ("C" shaped).
They turned out pretty good, but I couldn't get them down by the sidecar loop casting. At first I questioned the clamps being "C" shaped, thinking they might need to be "b" shaped. Or, maybe the header pipe was off, it wasn't fitting well at the head anyway. I'm replacing all my pipes hoping to get a better fitting exhaust. It makes sense that the "b" shaped clamps would be able to slide lower. There would be more room for the bolt off center. Maybe there's a difference between 1938 frame/pipe geometry & 1947? But, Palmers book illustration does show the "C" shaped clamps for '47. I'm not having my bike judged, but I would like to get it right if possible.

[len dowe]

Bob,
I know i have the correct oem clamps and i have pics of bikes being judged this way. Thats what i went off of and trying to fit them lower was getting to close to each other and they wouldn't fit up any other way. the front header gets to close to the frame in order for the squish and rear header to match up correctly... I do know for a fact that my header pipes are oem as well as my squish pipe(muffler repop)....
I know the pics Chris is showing (the MoCo has been known to alter their so-called picture's)imho) and maybe there is a difference in 47 and 38? I wouldn't think so but my friend has a 47 and i believe it's the same as mine. I'll look again this coming wkend and check my pictures just to make sure one more time.
Chris, could you post a pic of yours? Are yours down by the loops? I would like to know as well on this as i have tried every possible fitment with the correct clamps and this is the only way that i have found for them to fit and line up. But if anybody has a better way? i would like to know as well. Have i been doing it wrong all these yrs? Please correct me if i'm wrong,,,Chris,,Matt, Robbie,,anybody??? The puzzle seems to fall into place with this application as well with the motto "if it doesn't fit, don't force it".
Len.
P.s. Not trying to step on toe's or be disrespectful in any way