Linkert M74B

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  • dukekleman
    replied
    Laurie,
    If your carburetor body is warped more than 0.015" , I would suggest you straighten it out prior to sanding.

    This will minimize the material lost when sanding which aids in retaining thread depth.

    Hope this helps!
    Duke

    Leave a comment:


  • Laurie
    replied
    Originally posted by T. Cotten View Post
    Like Duffey posted, Laurie,...

    Not only are there many common places to leak, some leak at "impossible" places (little 'blisters' of foam form at porosities after a half-minute or so, and yes, they do affect performance!):

    MANBLSTR.jpg MANBLSR2.jpg

    Those were 'plumber's' castings, but here's modern S&S O-ring leakers:
    S&SPORE.jpg
    S&Spore2.jpg

    Without bubbles such curses could never be cured.
    (Note the first two had been perforated with a port, shown here repaired,
    in a frustrated attempt at some better idea, because they were not diagnosed.)

    Note also that the manifold-to-carb connection cannot be bubble-tested, so please arbitrarily grind the manifold flanges to *flat*,,... because they never are!

    FLNGDST4.jpg

    ....Cotten
    Cotten
    hope to get at it tomorrow, but I will also flat sand the flanges Thanks for the advice!

    Cheers & Beers

    Leave a comment:


  • Laurie
    replied
    Originally posted by duffeycycles View Post
    They can leak in many places,one is the rivet that holds the inserts in the heads.Another is the inserts to heads around the threads.If you actually have o-rings it is not stock.Either stock or modified, any point in the system can have a leak.Carb to manifold etc.
    yes mate the heads were modified before I got them to O Ring type manifold

    Leave a comment:


  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Like Duffey posted, Laurie,...

    Not only are there many common places to leak, some leak at "impossible" places (little 'blisters' of foam form at porosities after a half-minute or so, and yes, they do affect performance!):

    MANBLSTR.jpg MANBLSR2.jpg

    Those were 'plumber's' castings, but here's modern S&S O-ring leakers:
    S&SPORE.jpg
    S&Spore2.jpg

    Without bubbles such curses could never be cured.
    (Note the first two had been perforated with a port, shown here repaired,
    in a frustrated attempt at some better idea, because they were not diagnosed.)

    Note also that the manifold-to-carb connection cannot be bubble-tested, so please arbitrarily grind the manifold flanges to *flat*,,... because they never are!

    FLNGDST4.jpg

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 04-11-2024, 08:33 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • duffeycycles
    replied
    They can leak in many places,one is the rivet that holds the inserts in the heads.Another is the inserts to heads around the threads.If you actually have o-rings it is not stock.Either stock or modified, any point in the system can have a leak.Carb to manifold etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • Laurie
    replied
    Originally posted by T. Cotten View Post

    As long as it was regulated, it should be sufficient, Laurie..

    Its not about accuracy as much as constant supply, and fifteen psi is over-kill but prudent.

    (Had to make certain you weren't using a tire pump, or worse yet, a Schrader valve upon the test plate like silly ebay offerings.)

    Once again I must add, you have really beaten the odds!

    ....Cotten
    So Cotton
    Where do they usually leak from?and why? bad fitment or to big a gap for the o rings?

    Cheers & Beers

    Leave a comment:


  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Originally posted by Laurie View Post
    Cotton
    I hope your right! will get back to you when ive tested again, quick question though whats the best way to make sure the valves are shut?
    Simple, Laurie!

    Just watch the regulator; It will rise and drop as motor valves open and close, then set it at about fifteen at its highest. Its all about the pressure differential, not holding pressure, and it doesn't matter what stroke its on.

    Please remember that there will always be air passing around the intake stems and guides that is orders of magnitude greater than the leaks we seek. That's why a constant supply is required, and Schrader valves give false negatives.

    (The valves on Chiefs never seem to shut completely at the same time!)

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 04-10-2024, 08:10 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • dukekleman
    replied
    Laurie,
    I'm not sure if you asking about fuel valves or engine valves.

    On the engine valves you can set the engine to TDC compression stroke. If you are doubting either Valve over lap verse compression stroke, remove your push rod cover retaining clip , raise the cover tube and verify that both pushrods spin freely with your fingers.

    Valve sealing integrity can be verified by performing a cylinder leak down test.

    Hope this helps,
    Duke

    Leave a comment:


  • Laurie
    replied
    Cotton
    I hope your right! will get back to you when ive tested again, quick question though whats the best way to make sure the valves are shut?

    Leave a comment:


  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Originally posted by Laurie View Post

    Cotten
    I'll have to admit that it probably wasn't regulated properly and therefore not constant as my regulator is pretty ordinary, so im going to buy another regulator tomorrow & try again
    As long as it was regulated, it should be sufficient, Laurie..

    Its not about accuracy as much as constant supply, and fifteen psi is over-kill but prudent.

    (Had to make certain you weren't using a tire pump, or worse yet, a Schrader valve upon the test plate like silly ebay offerings.)

    Once again I must add, you have really beaten the odds!

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 04-09-2024, 08:20 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Laurie
    replied
    Originally posted by dukekleman View Post
    Laurie,
    I'd like to try and help by first asking if the spring collar is in place and installed correctly? Here's and image of a spring collar.
    Screenshot_20240408-202901.png
    Also I'd like to ask if the throttle disc is installed in the proper direction. It's important to have it installed correctly. If not, your idle circuit will not operate properly nor will it transition fuel correctly. Here's an image of a throttle disc. Note the bevel at the 6 o'clock position in the photo. This bevel needs to be located by the idle and transitional circuits in the correct manner to function as normal.
    Screenshot_20240408-203108.png
    Hope this helps,
    Duke
    Duke I'll check the carb tomorrow! Thanks Mate!

    Leave a comment:


  • Laurie
    replied
    Originally posted by T. Cotten View Post

    If your conversion doesn't leak, Laurie,..

    Its one in a thousand!

    (Forgive me but I must ask: You are using a regulated, constant air supply, right?)

    And I had great luck tuning M74Bs, even for EL Knucks. But then, everything else was in order....

    ...Cotten
    Cotten
    I'll have to admit that it probably wasn't regulated properly and therefore not constant as my regulator is pretty ordinary, so im going to buy another regulator tomorrow & try again

    Leave a comment:


  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Originally posted by dukekleman View Post
    Laurie,
    I'd like to try and help by first asking if the spring collar is in place and installed correctly? Here's and image of a spring collar.

    Also I'd like to ask if the throttle disc is installed in the proper direction. It's important to have it installed correctly. If not, your idle circuit will not operate properly nor will it transition fuel correctly. Here's an image of a throttle disc. Note the bevel at the 6 o'clock position in the photo. This bevel needs to be located by the idle and transitional circuits in the correct manner to function as normal.

    Hope this helps,
    Duke
    That reminds me of the time, Duke,..

    A recognizable international Indian personality (at least within the Indian zodiac) sent me his vintage-tricked brand-X M5 with shaved shafts for flow, for a re-fresh.

    The throttledisc was soldered-in backwards.

    He had run it righteously for years! If they weren't forgiving, they would never have become legendary.

    ...Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 04-08-2024, 08:51 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • dukekleman
    replied
    Laurie,
    I'd like to try and help by first asking if the spring collar is in place and installed correctly? Here's and image of a spring collar.
    Screenshot_20240408-202901.png
    Also I'd like to ask if the throttle disc is installed in the proper direction. It's important to have it installed correctly. If not, your idle circuit will not operate properly nor will it transition fuel correctly. Here's an image of a throttle disc. Note the bevel at the 6 o'clock position in the photo. This bevel needs to be located by the idle and transitional circuits in the correct manner to function as normal.
    Screenshot_20240408-203108.png
    Hope this helps,
    Duke

    Leave a comment:


  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Originally posted by Laurie View Post
    Ok I did a leak test using a plate similar to the https://web.archive.org/web/20250615...hleaktest.html (forgot I had 1) and no leaks,
    I should mention that the heads has had an O ring manifold conversion done.

    Jerry
    I have a '46 thats been running a M74B for the last 8 years no problems there.
    If your conversion doesn't leak, Laurie,..

    Its one in a thousand!

    (Forgive me but I must ask: You are using a regulated, constant air supply, right?)

    And I had great luck tuning M74Bs, even for EL Knucks. But then, everything else was in order....

    ...Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 05-13-2026, 10:23 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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