Complete knucklehead heads from Tedd's V-twin.

[T. Cotten]

Sorry, FNG1,

Turning in the nipple farther just boogers the rivet hole worse. It needs to seal there.
Backing out a nipple with boogered threads is worse, as I noted in the VirtualIndian discussion.

It should be firmly seated against a thin lip of the head casting anyway.

Don't be sure its the only leak, until it is fixed, and you are doing the test thoroughly to a regulated 14~15 psi.
It can take nearly half a minute for the tiniest leaks to show as white blisters of tiny bubbles.
No leak is an acceptable leak.

Nipple replacement is, in my opinion, the most challenging operation in vintage American motorcycle service, and if I suggested anyone they would hold it against me. Especially since its a Tedd can 'o worms.

Please review the VI discussion again,

....Cotten

[FNG1]

Hi Cotton, thanks, I am now forewarned. Ok, I am up for it. Not this week though. I'll pull the head and have a look at what I am up against. Contemplating a few ideas like boring it out till its thin or backing it out a little then drilling through the rivet hole to get rid of some of the deformed threads, or... I'll see. Any other tried and true methods? Thanks again for a ll the help.

[T. Cotten]

Hi Cotton, thanks, I am now forewarned. Ok, I am up for it. Not this week though. I'll pull the head and have a look at what I am up against. Contemplating a few ideas like boring it out till its thin or backing it out a little then drilling through the rivet hole to get rid of some of the deformed threads, or... I'll see. Any other tried and true methods? Thanks again for a ll the help.

FNG1!

Please test everything properly before you yank the heads.

The rivet hole will probably need to be reamed for a custom rivet, so please do not open it up any larger than it already is.
Your first attempt to unscrew the nipple will give you a feel for any resistance from 'upset' threads. Occasionally I was able to go through the rivet hole with a punch to deform the insert to where the threads no longer interfered. Occasionally not.

At least it is a cast-iron (or steel?) head, and more forgiving. Aluminum Panheads suffered invariably from nipple removal.

They look like pop rivets.
Considering the Tedd handiwork that has crossed my benches, both nipples might fall right out.

Please observe carefully, and I wish you great patience...

....Cotten
PS: Some afterthoughts:
Beware of any sealer or adhesive that may have to be cooked out with a torch.
You aren't using a tire pump, are you?

[FNG1]

Hi Cotton, I got very lucky and everything came apart for me. After knocking out the rivet the front nipple came out easily using the rubber expansion plug to unscrew it. I decided to do the rear head and turned a steel disc the same taper and length as a ferrule. With the manifold nut and disc tightened against the nipple I was able to get it out too. First, the rivets are aluminum and the rear head had an O ring. The front head didn't. The rivet holes measure .250 to .251 so I will wait to see what Colony's measure. There seems to be only oil on the threads. I will get new nipples and rivets from Colony. I am turning a anvil to back up the new rivets. I also drilled out the bolt in a 1 1/2" expansion plug and turned it down for hose, it will be my new universal manifold tester. I did use a 12v pump. My work space is limited and if I don't need something it gets moved out. Now that I know I need 15 PSI, I will use a compressor with regulated air pressure. My hand pump was good enough for Henry Ford and its still works good. Thanks for all the help. Reading what others have done on these forums has helped shed light where my experience is limited.

[T. Cotten]

FNG1!

I lost count long ago of the people who got futile "false negatives" with mattress pumps, shop vacs, and other contrivances.

The critical leaks are the tiniest.

Please use a constant, regulated air supply to test your final assembly, or set yourself up for more grief.

....Cotten
PS: Nice Ford pump. Eventually we come to sealers for the nipple replacement. Do the Tedd heads have a thin sealing lip protruding from the casting?
PPS: Was it a pop rivet?

[FNG1]

Hi Cotton, the rivets were solid aluminum. The pictures show the heads. As I have never seen disassembled OE heads I wouldn't know if they were similar. Colony's rivets are parked so they must be steel. I think I'll make a drill bushing and use a smaller drill to center and help align my drill and reamer for the new rivet holes.

[Chris Haynes]

Also visible are the V-Twin copper oil lines on the tins. Originals are steel.

[T. Cotten]

FNG1!

OEM heads sealed against the shoulder of the nipple by biting in with a thin lip.

Wide surfaces are hard to mate and seal, but it appears it was too much trouble for Tedd to do it right.

The rivet holes look huge; Patience, and good Luck!

...Cotten
PS: The o-rings were a lit fuse anyway.
PPS:Photos focus better on close-ups if you can find the 'macro mode', usually shown by a little flower icon.

[FNG1]

Hi Chris, I wondered about the longevity of copper too. But the lines are magnetic. I wonder if the copper flash is easier to solder than parkerizing? Probably just cheaper, I really don't know.

[elvisp1956]

Motortechnic Manufacturing ® Germany

[QUOTE=Jerry Wieland;171251]A friend recently bought a set of assembled 1940 to 1947 knuckle heads from Tedd and we are wondering if a guy can 'put them on and runn'em' or are there things we need to check first?

Has anyone heard of a guy in Germany that makes authentic looking heads. Biil Knorr (Motortechnic Manufacturing ® Germany)? Any good?

[FNG1]

I got lucky and everything went good. I made my own rivets and some new special HD tooling. I oiled the threads and tightened the nipples very tight. I made a drill bushing to center my drill and reamed the rivet holes. The anvil pushed the head of the rivet tight to the I.D. of the nipples. 15 PSI regulated constant air and no leaks. I will check the manifold when I get time.

[FNG1]

All good. Thanks for all the help.