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  • #16
    Thanks, Sarge - you've been more than helpful. I don't know what lightning bolt struck my wife, but I've been given full blessing on spending whatever I have to on this restore. I guess it doesn't hurt that I only had to pay $6000 for the bike and she recognizes the value in it.

    I will definitely let you know what I find in my journeys in regards to the front end. Hopefully we can help each other out!

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    • #17
      Originally posted by tomcat1 View Post
      If your not going to use the rear fender, And it is truly a 47 fender. I would be interested in it.
      No problem, Tomcat - I'll let you know if I end up replacing it. One thing to note - the tombstone light is intact, but the glass lense does have a crack in it.

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      • #18
        What I'd love to find at this point, is an OEM front end - I've seen there are several versions out there - any suggestions on which length will work best?
        There is only ONE length, and it is the same for all Knuckleheads from '36-'47. There are different versions in terms of method of construction (you need a brazed one) and whether inline or offset stem(you need inline). There are also differences in location of grease zerks and other minor differences. No longer versions were ever used on production machines except the ELC for the Canadian Military. The only other longer versions were early WLA and XA, neither of which is correct fore your bike. And before you commit to a restoration be aware that in order to be right every single part needs to be as it originally was finished, the right year (including the forks which need correct forging date hallmarks), the correct hardware, etc. The difference between a correctly restored Knuckle and a refinished one is immense, both in time and dollars.
        Robbie
        Robbie Knight Amca #2736

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        • #19
          Robbie's right, but I read you, Wingnut as saying you want it, "as close to possible, but if it's a little bit hybrid, (I'm) okay with it."

          Now is a crossroads for you. I remember someone else who frequents this board, and another board both Robbie and I follow, who started out with a similar attitude, about a '52, as I remember, but was influenced by "the more you learn, the more you want to learn," and changed his mind over time, I think, and he came to decide that he was (originally, "perish the thought!") going through with a full-on '52 restoration. Not that there's anything wrong with that!

          You have a "good" basis, apparently, for a '41, first year 74 Knuckle. There are pristinely restored '41 examples already in existence, and that is do-able, and the finished bike is 'more valuable' after all (the blood, swat and tears). 'Costs considerably more to do, also, of course. And once finished, everything you do with it risks lowering its value as it accumulates normal wear-and-tear; which is the reason so many pristine bikes end up as "trailer queens" or in museums, never even started up for a trip to the beach or for a pack of smokes to the grocery store.

          Piecing one back together, like embarking on a search for the exact right dated parts, simulating the bike that was taken apart long ago, also takes a long time in a garage before it ever sees daylight. You have a frame (probably) and a good, still-41 engine, "dunno" trans, but looks right, '41 fuel tanks and dash & maybe r. brake, and about everything else was 'updated' by a previous owner(s).

          Jerry Wieland in post #10 suggests you ride it as it has developed. Some would probably suggest that that route "preserves history" in some aesthetic way. So, there are several avenues leading from this crossroads. You have a plan to ride it, but as a rider '41. That's a bit easier to do if you're not chained to exact restoration, and considerably faster, usually.

          I got me a rider '37 U-model forty-two years ago, and i ride it and treat it like my everyday bike. It's one of my family members, and longest surviving life-companion, too. Some people are stunned, from comments i get (How can you ride it every day?"), but with the growth of the repop industry around these bikes, you can wear out any part of one, and have replacement parts overnighted to you and fix it and keep on truckin'. That sounds 2me a little like what you envision.

          However, if the correct, matching, cast date cartouche on the underside of your transmission top is essential for your happiness/well-being, or if you think only in terms of relative financial rewards at the end, that's not for you.

          The alternative is to strive for something, as in your mind, now, that looks considerably more like a perfectly stock 1941 FL, but is not intended to stand the scrutiny of AMCA Judges. That would be something you build to ride and have fun on, prepared to fix what you break and ride again. Basically, you can't wear these old bikes out if you're prepared to get your hands dirty.

          It's entirely up to you. As has been said often before, "we're just caretakers of these old pieces of machinery," & they'll usually outlive us and be passed down (like yours was) But don't start making an investment in your dream bike & waste energy and money by changing your mind later. Of course, I think the most fun is to build whatever pleases you, and the most fun for your dollars! Hope this helps!
          Last edited by Sargehere; 04-08-2012, 12:06 AM.
          Gerry Lyons #607
          http://www.37ul.com/
          http://flatheadownersgroup.com/

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          • #20
            Long as you have the motor all tore down you should check for cracks in the area I circled. 1940 and 1941 OHV's are very prone to cracking in that area, Jerry
            Attached Files
            Last edited by Jerry Wieland; 04-07-2012, 11:42 PM.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Wingnut234 View Post
              I guess it doesn't hurt that I only had to pay $6000 for the bike
              I think you did very well wingnut.
              AMCA #765

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              • #22
                Be careful beadblasting, you don't want to change the finish of the castings.
                D. A. Bagin #3166 AKA Panheadzz 440 48chief W/sidecar 57fl 57flh 58fl 66m-50 68flh 70xlh

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                • #23
                  He has to beadblast it.but yes, be careful as not to loose the sand casting finish if it still has it.
                  Looks like someone painted the whole engine silver. As suggested before, get palmer's book. Even if you don't plan on 100 point judged bike, and just want a rider. It will go along ways and worth everything you do if you put it back together correctly with the correct hardware, correct hardware finishes and painted parts on the engine. ie. silver painted carb.silver painted tappet blocks, oil pump ect. As long as you have it blown apart. And 6k for a pre-war knuck. you did very well. The frame is the key if it is correct for 41. I would paint it and put it back together and ride it and call it a riding restoration. ride it and change the front end when you find one. But when you do change something, do it right. resist the temptation to chrome it out. LOL!
                  AMCA 26656

                  47EL
                  47WL

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                  • #24
                    Would you mind posting some pictures of the frame - especially the neck and the toolbox mount. That would go a long way towards identifying the vintage. Jerry

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                    • #25
                      Wingnut,
                      Your at a very enviable crossroads, congratulations. I highly recommend a good paint with self etching primer instead of powder coat. My thinking when I built my 47EL was that I wanted the bike to age with the same grace & patina as they used to. I don't think powder coat will do that. My experience with powder coat is limited to the early stuff, it may be formulated differently now, I don't know. The early stuff was incredibly durable & seemed to be impervious to any wear. But, if you got a stone chip or something, moisture would peel it off in a "plastic-like" sheet or blister. Like I said, it might be different now. But, that would be a terrible thing to deal with on a finished bike.
                      Something to consider: I began my project (which took me 30 years) thinking I wanted to get it absolutely correct & have it judged. At some point I realized I didn't want to be limited to how it looked from the factory & the possibility that it might look identical to someone else's bike. So, for the most part, my bike is fairly accurate, but it has a few personal touches that make it "my bike". Any decision you make will be the right one for you. Just don't permanently alter any part for future caretakers.
                      Good luck & enjoy the hunt.
                      Bob

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                      • #26
                        Wingnut,

                        I sent you a PM with contact info. I live near you in NVa. Let's meet and talk old bikes. I have several knuckles and 2 are 41's. I also have several pans and flatties. I can help with resources and contacts both locally and nationally.

                        Tom (Rollo) Hardy
                        AMCA # 12766

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by bobdo View Post
                          Wingnut,
                          ... So, for the most part, my bike is fairly accurate, but it has a few personal touches that make it "my bike".
                          Hi Bob - I would love to see a pic of your bike - I like your way of thinking of "keeping it real" but also making it personal!

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Jerry Wieland View Post
                            Would you mind posting some pictures of the frame - especially the neck and the toolbox mount. That would go a long way towards identifying the vintage. Jerry
                            Here are the best pics I have of the frame - let me know what you think... If there's something specific, it's only 12' away in the garage, so i can run out and snap some more.

                            003.jpg009.jpg004.jpg006.jpg007.jpg

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                            • #29
                              001.jpg001.jpg013.jpg[QUOTE=Wingnut234;119780]Here are the best pics I have of the frame - let me know what you think... If there's something specific, it's only 12' away in the garage, so i can run out and snap some more.

                              Here's a few more

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Side-on, fill the frames of two pics of each of the sides of the neck, and show the entire front motor mount from front and back in another, and another, the area under the transmission, if you would, please, Mr. DeMille! Looking 41 to me, tho!
                                Gerry Lyons #607
                                http://www.37ul.com/
                                http://flatheadownersgroup.com/

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