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  • Chasing the idle speed on my WLA

    Maybe I am asking too much of my 45 but I have been chasing the idle on it for the last 3 years with different iterations of motor changes to get it back to stock. When the engine is cold I have a nice “putt – putt” idle (spark fully advanced), so slow the generator light flickers. When the engine warms up during a high speed run the idle speed is high at the next stop, almost racing. I have to retard the spark and it gets slower but not at a speed I would call an idle, more like a fast idle. If I turn the hot engine off and start it 15 minutes later the idle is back to the “putt-putt” mentioned above.

    Regardless of the iterations in getting this engine right it now has the following:

    New barrels, pistons, rings, valves, valve springs, head and base gaskets.

    Aluminum #5 heads with Teflon gaskets.

    The intake manifold has the extension between the carb and the manifold, some call this a heat blocker but I have read it does not block heat but moves the carb out from between the hot cylinders. All the mating surfaces look flat and mate without any noticeable warps.

    The carb is an M88 with adjustable high speed. The location for the high speed jet is plugged with a brass plug and so is the other hole.

    New throttle shaft with barely discernable “wiggle” in the throttle shaft bushings. Just to be on the safe side I squashed an “O ring” under the throttle arm to seal better as a last resort.

    I have cleaned the carb including making sure the two little holes where the butterfly closes are open.

    The vent in the venturi is clear.

    The nozzle is not stuck but it does not readily fall out when the bowl and spring are removed. A few thumps on the carb body by hand and gravity is all it takes to get it out.

    The venture is tight and I have not removed it.

    This sounds like an air leak to me but I can not figure out where it is.

  • #2
    Forgot to mention....

    New float and adjusted per the military engine rebuilding manual

    New brass compression fittings on the intake manifold to cylinder fittings

    If no one has a solution, is there a diagnsotic technique I can use to find the problem area.

    Comment


    • #3
      Do you have the correct tophat washer installed under the idle mixture needle spring? It should be about .103" ID.

      Comment


      • #4
        Rvp!

        Although your carb may have common issues (like daylight around the venturi, or excessive borewear), it is far more likely that your tuning difficulties originate downstream. Even though your brass ferrules are new, it is most important to pressuretest the assembly with soapy water upon it to be certain that you do not chase your tail. Just 12 to 15 psi max is all it takes for even the tiniest gremlin to show itself as a blister of foam.

        Just get a big rubber stopper that fits your manifold and poke a hole in it for your air supply. (And wash any detergent off afterwards because it is corrosive!)

        Good luck,

        ....Cotten
        AMCA #776
        Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

        Comment


        • #5
          Chasing the idle

          Thanks to those that responded. There is a "top hat" washer on the idle mixture needle, whether it is correct or not I will have to measure it.

          Never though to pressure test the intake manifold to cylinder connections. Assuming I do find a leak (lots of foaming) how to I correct this? Can I just mash silicon into the joints and wipe it clean?

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          • #6
            Nope....use peek seals. Paps

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            • #7
              Do not know what peek seals are...

              OK, you got me on that one. What are peek seals?

              Comment


              • #8
                Pa..........

                I got PEEK seals, on the WLA
                AND just got in my DuraFloats from Cotten...

                Just about spent a couple hours making sure the float's set up right..

                Will exchange the bowl this weekend....and runer up.

                Now...........since I was using the heavy brass float and now gone to one that's only about 3 grams....

                What am I looking for, as far as carb needle adjustments?

                RvP........Tom Cotton makes PEEK seals.......contact him.

                George
                George Greer
                AMCA # 3370

                Comment


                • #9
                  press.-test is a good way to go. That said, you can also bring engine up to approx. 2,000rpm and carefully spray something like WD-40 around each area you want to test. Any signif. change in eng. speed (up or down) indicates a likely leak.
                  Let me know how this turns out as I have the exact same symptoms on my '71 shovel, can't find a leak and am not sure what's going on.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Spraying stuff like WD-40 or even using a fire extinguisher will only give a result if the vacuum leak is quite large. And you still can only guess the whereabouts.

                    The tiniest fissures that only make a tiny blister of foam under pressure are enough to make cylinders burn differently, and affect tuning. Bubbles pinpoint problems when they exist.
                    A brief discussion at http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html addresses places other than the ferrules where leaks may occur.

                    Pressuretesting WHILE installing later O-ring assemblies allows you to find the 'sweet spot' of a perfect seal before you go to the trouble of installing the carb, as well as preventing over-tightening of the clamps.

                    More and more shops around the world are machining worn manifolds and the thermoplastic PEEK to fit 'plumber's' manifolds.
                    http://www.enfieldracing.com/8.html now offers cast ferrules, however your manifold spigots will have to be in pristine condition to accept them properly.

                    ....Cotten
                    Last edited by T. Cotten; 08-25-2008, 08:19 AM.
                    AMCA #776
                    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by bueutyygo
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                      WTF is this? Is this what I get for $30 a year?
                      Ride 'em. Don't hide 'em.
                      Dan #6938 FUBO

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by motorhead1 View Post
                        WTF is this? Is this what I get for $30 a year?
                        As far as the leadership of this club is concerned it is.
                        Be sure to visit;
                        http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
                        Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
                        Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Aaahhhhhhhh

                          Makes me wonder about renewing.....

                          Although at each B/B that I am at/member of I learn something...but this spam crap is BS...
                          George Greer
                          AMCA # 3370

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