Need help firing up my 45

[ratfink]

Hoping someone can help me with getting my rebuilt 45 started. We had it running and then took of the Linkert which was leaking and dumping too much fuel. Got the carb back (thankns Cotten!) and the points have been set (.22), new plugs (.40 gap) and the battery is fully charged.

I wasn't geting anything out of it, so I shot some starter fluid in the cab and all it will do is spit back out the carb.

I must be overlooking something (yes the ignition is on!).

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[T. Cotten]

Ratfink!

Did you pressuretest the manifold as suggested in my enclosed notesheet?

....Cotten

PS: You might want to review your plug gap spec. A points system likes .026" better.

[ratfink]

I must admit that I did not pressure test. Call it blind faith, or ignorance, but I'm at the point where I if it works fine I will have nice servicar. If it doesn't, well call it art!

Part of my frustration is with the "hack" that I had given the bike to finish. Upon closer inspection, I think he did not set the circuit breaker properly.

It did run, albiet terrible and super rich. Could it be that dumping enough fuel into the cylinders would compensate for improper timing for a short time?

I read that you were looking to reloacte. I wish you the very best. Be sure to send me an email so we can settle up. Thank you!

[ratfink]

With the flywheel timing mark proeprly aligned, here is the position on the breaker cam.

Where should the mark on the cam be aligned?

I appreciate the help.

[P LaLonde]

ratfink,
your 45 is not any different than my 38 80. so that hash mark in your photo,should point to the fiber on your points.
Now on your distribertor base there is also a hash mark ,on the out side towords the bottom of the base. your advancer ring should have a hole in it. these Should be alined

try putting your cap back on an advance the spark, check to see where the shaft pointer is now.

you mite haft to pull your base an turn your shaft one way or the other a TOOTH.

Hope this helps

TooTall Paul

[T. Cotten]

Ratfink!

Your manifold is still another primary suspect for problems. You can diagnose any leaks, their location, and magnitude quickly with 15 psi and some soapy water: http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html.

Curing all vacuum leaks will not only make starting easy, it will lengthen the fuse on the motor considerably.

My shop is paralyzed with renovating and reorganizing, but not relocating.
(I'll be in touch ASAP,...)

....Cotten

[ratfink]

Hey Cotten!

So I have narrowed the problem down to the carb. Everything checks out (no leaks), timing is dead on, got spark.

There is gas in the bowl but it is not drawing into the manifold. The starter fluid will get it to fire up, but nothing more.

So how do I get the carb to start flowing? I have the idle adjustment (right side) turned out 3 turns and the high speed (left side) 5 turns. I removed the plug on the bottom of the bowl and there was gas, so the bowl is full. I don't even smell gas after kicking.

Thanks for your assistance.

[JohnR]

Are the intake and exhaust valves adjusted correctly?

[T. Cotten]

Sorry for another tardy reply, but distractions are piling upon me.

Try starting with the HS needle at ~1.5 turns, and the LS (the one with the lift lever) at about 4 turns. This should start, but on the rich side.

Starting fluid is not terribly safe, and tends to wash down the cylinders walls quickly. If starting is suspected to be difficult because of a lack of fuel, try hand-choking a couple of kicks with the ignition off.
(This will also help to purge the carb of any rustflakes, insect wings, or hairballs.)

Please quickly re-install the spark arrestor (air horn or cleaner) before switching on the igniton.

.....Cotten

[cheifrider]

Originally posted by ratfink
Hey Cotten!

So I have narrowed the problem down to the carb. Everything checks out (no leaks), timing is dead on, got spark.

There is gas in the bowl but it is not drawing into the manifold. The starter fluid will get it to fire up, but nothing more.

So how do I get the carb to start flowing? I have the idle adjustment (right side) turned out 3 turns and the high speed (left side) 5 turns. I removed the plug on the bottom of the bowl and there was gas, so the bowl is full. I don't even smell gas after kicking.

Thanks for your assistance.

rat, you are describing the exact problem i had with my 1941 u .right to the t. i originally tested the manifold the old fashioned way , with a spray can of something or other.i finally conceded that i would have to take it apart and do it the right way, as cotten suggests all over these forums .it took me about 1 hour to make a manifold testor ,and another 2 hours or so to identify and fix numerous problem areas in the intake system. i thought some were so small that they couldnt make a difference , but i think all these "little" things together make for major hard starting .i put my u back together yesterday and it started the way it is supposed to.while i was doing the fine tune on the carb i conducted a little experiment. i loosened 1 manifold bolt ever so slightly(1/4 turn mabey)and the bike coughed and spit like crazy.i know its a pain to do all this work ,but, your bike will start and you will have the peace of mind knowing that you dont have a manifold leak .my leak was so severe that i burned the front piston about a year ago , i have a 48 wl that runs like a champ , but i can never get the plugs to be the same color.the rear cylinder is always slightly lean. i will bet a dollar to a donut that when i test the manifold on it i will find my problem.im also going to perform this test on all my other bikes.its only half a day per bike ,if you dont find a major malfunction somewhere.good luck with your carby and if you need a pic of my version of the testorgive me a jingle,tom

[ratfink]

Thanks to allfor the replies.

When I first built the bike, I had a severly leaky carb and manifold. It did run but really rich and bogged out under a load.

The carb was rebuilt and I reinstalled everything. Now it seems as though there is no gas drawing through the carb. Gas is in the bowl, but there is no smell of gas after kicking and kicking and kicking. The starter fluid will get it to fire for a few seconds and thats it.

I retest the manifold, but I'm confident it is fine.

Wish me luck!

[cheifrider]

good luck , hey dont forget to make sure your intake valves are closed when testing ,on my 1st test they were not ,leading me to believe there were no leaks just some food for thought....

[ratfink]

Okay, upon further review there was a leak.

Now the problem is eliminiating the leak.

I removed the intake and cleaned everything up. Cotten had installed the plastic bushings, so that eliminates one potentila problem.

On the side that is leaking, it is extemely difficult to hand turn the nut over the bushing. The other side is loose and free. Does give any insight?

Thanks.

[cheifrider]

rat, i might guess that the nut has been "ovaled "thus making it smaller in one area over another.or the inside of the nut may have had junk or a burr on it makin the nut gall the bushing?

[T. Cotten]

The PEEK ring can be sanded with 220 grit if you need to clearance more for the nut (and whenever installation has left a mark upon the mating faces).

The outer diameter surface of the ring that rubs upon the nut threads is not a sealing surface, and does not require a 'finish'.

Often the second phase of testing is required to locate a specific leak: Pressureize each nipple separately with the manifold assembly removed. If your leak is from between the nipple and the cylinder casting, the manifold can't cure it.

Good luck, and let us know what you find.

....Cotten