Cotten...You checking all TIRS when you set one up ? All ring grooves running true, all diameters dialed in, wrist pin on center to diameter, piston face running out ? We are talking about conventional machine tooling, not 95% contact precision collect production machine tooling where an operator needs only to load and unload parts.
Three jaw chucks are for roughing or don't mean much parts. Great for polishing at best. Never saw a true running three jaw. Close to true, give or take a thousandths, but never true. What do you do when a part moves a tiny bit on ya ? Change it to a four jaw, that's what. Might as well have setup the four jaw in the first place. Four jaw is the only way to go when finishing critical works. Holding power is better and more reliable than any three jaw. Never trust a three jaw for precision work. You can't dial it back in like you can a four jaw. Three jaws have a tendency to spin loose around a part too. Try chasing threads with a three jaw. If the chuck spins loose from the part or the part moves, try picking the thread back up on it. That is a nightmare enough with a four jaw, but at least it can be done. Paps
Three jaw chucks are for roughing or don't mean much parts. Great for polishing at best. Never saw a true running three jaw. Close to true, give or take a thousandths, but never true. What do you do when a part moves a tiny bit on ya ? Change it to a four jaw, that's what. Might as well have setup the four jaw in the first place. Four jaw is the only way to go when finishing critical works. Holding power is better and more reliable than any three jaw. Never trust a three jaw for precision work. You can't dial it back in like you can a four jaw. Three jaws have a tendency to spin loose around a part too. Try chasing threads with a three jaw. If the chuck spins loose from the part or the part moves, try picking the thread back up on it. That is a nightmare enough with a four jaw, but at least it can be done. Paps
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