Cotten,they didn't use Nytrophyl or Peek either,....what's your point?
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Harley Davidson WLC scavenger oil line leak
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Originally posted by duffeycycles View PostCotten,they didn't use Nytrophyl or Peek either,....what's your point?
Admiration and respect for the resourcefulness of the founders of motorcycling!
We would not need modern floats if the fuel didn't eat everything, nor PEEK if you could get a fresh manifold over the counter every rebuild.
...CottenAMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Hi, this is a short update on the leak I had on the connection between the scavenger oil pump and the nipple. As seen in the picture, it was not much leak but a few drops a day, but still quite annoying. I replaced the steel line by a new one and the problem continues. There was no cracks on the scavenger oil pump.
What I did next was to replace the oil lines by rubber ones with the hope it will get better. It is too soon to judge, but I would appreciate to get feedback from you.
please check the pictures. I am not sure if the look is better or worse, I have to adapt to it, as I have the feeling that steel lines are better looking, the think is that my motorcycle is a WLC anyway, although the fuel lines are all made of steel,
EdYou do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 2 photos.
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Originally posted by epazikas View PostHi, this is a short update on the leak I had on the connection between the scavenger oil pump and the nipple. As seen in the picture, it was not much leak but a few drops a day, but still quite annoying. I replaced the steel line by a new one and the problem continues. There was no cracks on the scavenger oil pump.
What I did next was to replace the oil lines by rubber ones with the hope it will get better. It is too soon to judge, but I would appreciate to get feedback from you.
please check the pictures. I am not sure if the look is better or worse, I have to adapt to it, as I have the feeling that steel lines are better looking, the think is that my motorcycle is a WLC anyway, although the fuel lines are all made of steel,
EdLast edited by Jerry Wieland; 02-27-2024, 09:46 PM.
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Originally posted by dukekleman View PostEpazikas,
Do your best to verify that there are not any cracks in the pump casting, oil nipple, oil line nut and the taper area of the line itself.
If those items appear to be OK along with all other Gasketing, you can assume the fitting threads are wicking oil and the cause of your leak.
I can see signs of this in the one photo showing it assembled, I'm just not sure if it was all washed away clean after assembly. It's possible I'm seeing assembly oil residue in the image.
Regardless if things check out, use Loctite Thread sealant 565 in its correct intended way of application on that type of connection and your leak will go away.
Hope this helps,
Duke
IMG_20210608_100219673.jpg
These oil and fuel lines on my 57' have thousands of miles on them. They don't drip nor do they sweat. I believe you can zoom in on the photo for a look. I spend hours fitting and lapping the joints but also use 565 to insure a proper seal over many heat cycles and vibration encounters while riding. Give it a try if you haven't.
Hope this helps,
Duke
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Originally posted by dukekleman View Post...I spend hours fitting and lapping the joints but also use 565 to insure a proper seal over many heat cycles and vibration encounters while riding. Give it a try if you haven't...
I was never above using teflon tape!
....Cotten
PS: Just curious: How did you spin that scavenger pump cover flare true into the line flare to lap it?Last edited by T. Cotten; 02-27-2024, 03:52 PM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Cotton,
I lap the fittings with a assembly lubricant.
My reason is to insure fitment under compression without stress on the line or fitting. I do this to insure they don't crack
( At least I hope)...the 565 is used for assure a proper seal.
So in the end, lapp and align for stress, sealant for leaks, sweating and securement.
It's worked for me for a lot of years now.
Duke
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Originally posted by dukekleman View PostCotton,
I lap the fittings with a assembly lubricant.
My reason is to insure fitment under compression without stress on the line or fitting. I do this to insure they don't crack
( At least I hope)...the 565 is used for assure a proper seal.
So in the end, lapp and align for stress, sealant for leaks, sweating and securement.
It's worked for me for a lot of years now.
Duke
But how did you squarely lap a scavenger pump cover into a return line?
scavengers.JPG
....Cotten
PS: Just that bottom piece with the flare of course...
PPS: These are all available. Note the USNavy blue body!AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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I believe I should have chosen the term burnish lap.
I first spend the time aligning the flared tube with the nipple assuring it contacts correctly X and Y @ 90 degrees. This can be very time consuming as you know.
When finished the line will set in place without nuts installed with no gaps and no pressure.
Then I place engine assembly lubricant on the inside and outside of the flare on the line as well as the nipple flare and threads. I install the nut and burnish lap the assembly using the nut. You see it form things together while doing this.
Next I'll wash all components up thoroughly and properly apply my 565 gasket. I like to use gaskets I guess. No days they use O rings on flare fittings for a gasket as well...
This process has work very well for me over the years.
Hope this helps,
DukeLast edited by dukekleman; 02-27-2024, 05:14 PM.
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Originally posted by dukekleman View PostI believe I should have chosen the term burnish lap.
I first spend the time aligning the flared tube with the nipple assuring it contacts correctly X and Y @ 90 degrees. This can be very time consuming as you know.
When finished the line will set in place without nuts installed with no gaps and no pressure.
Then I place engine assembly lubricant on the inside and outside of the flare on the line as well as the nipple flare and threads. I install the nut and burnish lap the assembly using the nut. You see it form things together while doing this.
Next I'll wash all components up thoroughly and properly apply my 565 gasket. I like to use gaskets I guess. No days they use O rings on flare fittings for a gasket as well...
This process has work very well for me over the years.
Hope this helps,
Duke
By "burnish lapping", you mean tighten-'n'-loosen-'n'-tighten-'n'-loosen-'n-tighten-'n'-loosen-'n'-tighten-n-loosen-n-...?
I've done that too. If it still needed a goober, I figured it didn't work.
Its all semantics I know!
...Cotten
AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Originally posted by T. Cotten View Post
So Duke,...
By "burnish lapping", you mean tighten-'n'-loosen-'n'-tighten-'n'-loosen-'n-tighten-'n'-loosen-'n'-tighten-n-loosen-n-...?
I've done that too. If it still needed a goober, I figured it didn't work.
Its all semantics I know!
...Cotten
I just know it all works together as an entire practice.
I've never spent the time to see if it works without a gasket, I just do it the first time around with the 565 gasket and be done.
Duke
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Originally posted by dukekleman View PostCotton,
I just know it all works together as an entire practice.
I've never spent the time to see if it works without a gasket, I just do it the first time around with the 565 gasket and be done.
Duke
Because they didn't have flying saucer goobers!
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 02-27-2024, 08:41 PM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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