WLA Manifold Nipple replacement

[mkynaston]

After replacing the cylinders on my 42WLA I found that my intake manifold was leaking at the nipple where it went into the front cylinder. I was able to get the rivet and the old nipple removed, but I am struggling to install the new nipple. (The old one threads all the way in smoothly)

Any suggestion as to a tool I can use to get the nipple screwed in? All of the tools I can find are for Harley 74 OHVs.

Also what rivet should I purchase to seal it in place.

[dukekleman]

I personally do not know where you can purchase an installation tool for the 45 SV application.
However, you can make a tool by using an old manifold nut and brass seal to install the fitting. Tighten the inlet nipple fitting, Rivet it in place and remove the nut.
I purchase various sizes rivets from McMaster Carr based on the size required to seal the whole properly.

[Buster]

I use an expanding internal pipe wrench. You can get one at Harbor Freight.

[mkynaston]

Also does anyone have recommendations for a thread sealant? Want to make sure I don’t have any leaks from the cylinder side when I put everything back together

[T. Cotten]

I used expanding collets, MK..

nplcollets.jpg

JBWeld works better than most sealers, but it must cure a couple of weeks before it is completely fuel resistant.
(We never know what the next seasons' blends will eat.)

You will want to ream your new rivet hole, and lathe-cut a rivet to a sweet fit. I annealed large spikes in coals, and cut them with a tapered head that would seal itself when pressed outward from inside. (Note top rivet is an OEM buttonhead, which conforms poorly to the curve of the nipple:

RIVETRPR.jpg

An anvil must be conjured to press the rivet outward firmly so the exposed end can be peened. (Chief/WL at far left.)

NPLANVIL.jpg

They work best when they have a 'ramp' or cam curve that will press the rivet outward when turned with a wrench.

.....Cotten
PS:More insights at http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest

PPS: The problem with the nut and brass seal method, Duke,..
Is that you cannot test the seal of the nipple until after you set the rivet.

Sometimes it takes two tries, and nipples ain't cheap!

[Architect]

Everything Cotten said for sure.

I used a pick and thread cleaning tool (I think they call it a rake??) until the nipple could be seated completely by hand. You do not want to force it thru the threads. Yes you need a tool to seat it and get the rivet in, but it should spin in by hand first, good luck.

[T. Cotten]

A "rake" is a must, Architect!

If you are talking about the threads in the casting..
thrdchsr.jpg

Because an old nipple with whizzerwheel cuts doesn't always cut it...
Nipple tap.jpg Come to think of it, my 'rake' works in nuts, too!


.....Cotten

[dukekleman]

These images show tooling I've either made or purchased over the years for thread cleaning, thread forming and thread creating... IMG_20230930_074619339.jpg

forming and creating
IMG_20230930_075450854.jpg

[dukekleman]

Industry standard installation tools
IMG_20230930_075550852.jpg

[dukekleman]

Sometimes, because of a particular situation, I may use available insert nipples or machine custom nipples. Both shown in the image.
IMG_20230930_075225370.jpg
As well as various rivets to install and/ or modify prior to installation.

[dukekleman]

This is the typical tooling I have come up with to install my rivets both on and off the engine.
IMG_20230930_075018847.jpg

[dukekleman]

In the end, no matter what tooling you have purchased or created yourself, all that matters is that it's secured and sealed!
IMG_20230930_075320370.jpg

[T. Cotten]

In the end, no matter what tooling you have purchased or created yourself, all that matters is that it's secured and sealed!
IMG_20230930_075320370.jpg

Almost all that matters, Duke,..

Until the AMCA judges point their stink fingers at the rivet repair. (Or worse yet, a prospective buyer.)

With a proper anvil that presses a tapered head to seal the hole, and a light press-fit rivet, a single "upset" with a flat punch will barrel out the rivet shank securely, and leave an OEM appearance.

Could you please post more of the anvil in #9? It appears to have a 'cam groove' like my cobbles, thanks!

...Cotten

[dukekleman]

Requested Anvil images from #9
IMG_20230930_134200880.jpg
IMG_20230930_134209315.jpg

[dukekleman]

Here's an image of the untouched original rivet on the other cylinder head (front) ...
IMG_20230930_135421751.jpg