WLA Manifold Nipple replacement

[T. Cotten]

Never seen one like that, Duke!

What year is it?

My previous post applied mostly to flatties, Indians, and Knucks, but the MOCO got creative with the early pans;
I haven't a pic, but the rivet was nicely domed to little more than its diameter, slightly above a spot-face.

(About '52, I think, they really screwed it up:
NPLBOLTS.jpg

It looks like my tool instincts were good, thanks again!

.....Cotten

[dukekleman]

Yeah, I just did a 1947 EL and it was very different of course.

This is a 1948 EL.

[BigLakeBob]

Thanks for sharing the tools you guys have made, always great to learn from the experienced.

[mkynaston]

Industry standard installation tools
IMG_20230930_075550852.jpg

Can you let me know the diameter of that tool. I have seen that one online but I don’t know if it will work with my 45. The inside diameter of my nipple is 1 3/16”

[dukekleman]

The tooling shown in the image above is for nipple fittings with an inlet ID of 1 1/2" .
Actual measurement is 1.560" on the inlet nipple fitting ID.
I'm unaware of anyone that produces the tooling you are requiring for your 45" .

The options I think would be:
A) Use the intake nut in conjunction with a brass manifold seal. Assemble these onto the nipple fitting and use the intake wrench to tighten it securely in the cylinder.

B) Purchase internal pipe wrenches.

C) Machine your own tooling based off images in this post.

If you happen to find a source manufacturing the tooling for the 45" inlet nipple fittings, please share.

Duke

[T. Cotten]

I used a nut and seal several times, Duke!

It almost worked once.

How do you bubble-test the security of the nipple when the nut covers the seam?

Gotta do that before its riveted, and if its not riveted, it will back out with the nut.

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

I typically used the tooling I have, however when I don't like say a 45", I torque the fitting in place with my thread sealant, allow proper cure time(24 hr minimum )and remove the nut.

[T. Cotten]

I typically used the tooling I have, however when I don't like say a 45", I torque the fitting in place with my thread sealant, allow proper cure time(24 hr minimum )and remove the nut.

Hope your sealant is proven fuel-proof, Duke!

(I know that's redundant, but labels often lie when it comes to P4gas.)

Beware Loctites that taste like saccharin wash out; Nothing worse than replacing nipple after nipple,..

Especially if huge oversize rivets ate the castings' meat for future repairs.

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

I understand what your saying. I haven't had issues, yet at least, and I've done it for a lot of years.

One other option, if you have a intake manifold nut to sacrifice, is to install set screws (drill and tap the face of the nut) into the intake nut face. I've done this 30 years ago.
I ground a washer to fit inside the nut first prior to install the brass seal and inlet nipple.
The set screws can be turned in 1 rotation
(360 degrees) then secured on the outside with a jam nut. Seal and Torque your inlet nipple, remove the jam nut, back off the set screws and the nut loosely spins off with your fingers. Extra work, but it works as a tool

Duke

[T. Cotten]

Hate to switch to sealers, Folks,...

But does anybody have any evidence that the MOCO used one?

Thanks in advance,

....Cotten

[mkynaston]

I appreciate all the advice. I got the nipple installed, and I am about to install the rivet. Should I coat the rivet with anything to ensure it is air tight?

[dukekleman]

Ideally the rivet would fit correctly in the hole.
Correct compression of the rivet would expand and create a seal.
If you have concerns about a rivet that fits loosely, I'd install a larger rivet or down size a larger rivet to achieve better fitment.
Bottom line is if the rivet fits correctly, any sealant would likely be removed when installed.
There are sealants that " wick transfer" after installation if your're still concerned about fitment.

[mkynaston]

Awesome. I got the rivet installed and did a bubble test for leaks. Everything is good.

Set the carburetor needle to three turns out and got the bike to start (it used to start with 2 primes and one kick, but things are starting harder now after cylinder and piston replacement.

Everything runs great in first and second gear but I have no power in third (above 40mph). Additionally once I have been riding at high RPM it is taking a long time to go back to a low idle. I have checked the throttle cable and adjustment screw and everything seems to be in place.

Any thoughts?

[dukekleman]

I'm going to assume your power issue exists at a particular throttle position/disc angle.

Going off that information it sounds like your power circuit (high speed) is the issue. Try adjusting the power needle.

Does your carburetor have both the plugs installed or is there a main jet installed? One never knows what has been done over the years so I have to ask...