Venturi stuck

[loch]

(Not like we're going on a
run tomorrow).

Paul, excellent point. Since I'm concerned about slipping and gouging the carburetor throat I'm following your recommendation. White vinegar first.

And then while that's soaking I can finish wiring up the switch panel.

-- Loch

[T. Cotten]

If you really lose patience, Loch,..

You could always melt it out like the third pic in post #22.

The body wasn't fazed a bit.

...Cotten
PS: Since I routinely re-sized venturies anyway, external pitting was of little consequence.
Internal pitting was lathe-dressed for aesthetics only, as for all we know, the turbulence might help.

(The golf ball dimple thing...)

[loch]

(The golf ball dimple thing...)

Good points, Tom.

That's about what they are, golf ball dimples. and not at all very many, and only on the leading edge. As for the outer surface. Well as long as it's not going to fall apart I'm absolutely okay with dressing up the outer diameter just enough so it slides easily back in the throat of the carburetor.

Is melting accomplished with an industrial oven or pottery oven of some kind?

-Loch

[ammorest]

Just curious; if it is that stuck why take it out unless it is damaged?
Dave

[T. Cotten]

Just curious; if it is that stuck why take it out unless it is damaged?
Dave

Please review post #9, Dave!

...That's about what they are, golf ball dimples. and not at all very many, and only on the leading edge. As for the outer surface. Well as long as it's not going to fall apart I'm absolutely okay with dressing up the outer diameter just enough so it slides easily back in the throat of the carburetor.... Is melting accomplished with an industrial oven or pottery oven of some kind?
-Loch

Once your venturi and body have been cleaned of "crust", Loch, I'll bet it falls through with daylight around it.

DAYLIGHT.jpg

Most do,.. so many that Colony copied shrunken examples:

CLNYVENT.jpg

This too must be remedied!

....Cotten

[loch]

Hi Dave,

Good question! Seems logical, if ain't broke why fix it.

Firstly, I don't claim any ubiquitous knowledge in the care and maintenance of old motorcycles. My only response to your question is that it is in the interest of doing a thorough job of it. It has been my recent experience in not doing a thorough job that led to the Panhead engine seizing this past September. Probably could've been avoided if I'd taken the time to properly inspect and test the engine before taking it on the road.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enuHMmqsOLk

I suppose the gunk that can get trapped behind the Venturi (between the Venturi and the carburetor body) could get into the engine, see Cotten's picture in post #9 in this thread. But I'm not entirely confident about this.

Moreover, the cycle is new to me. When I picked it up it didn't have a fuel line from the main tank to the carburetor. The fuel line from the reserve tank to the carburetor was rubber fuel hose with a plastic shutoff valve similar to those found on outboard motor fuel systems. The carburetor appeared to have not been cleaned in several years. Fuel was leaking from the carburetor bowl nut - crush washer. There was a steady drip of oil from both oil lines, and the bolt that plugged the main fuel tank was leaking onto the rear head. The front tire has a dime sized chunk of rubber missing from the sidewall... I mean I could go on and on. The main point here is that the cycle was woefully neglected. My sense is that taking care of these things is an investment in time and knowledge of this cycle.

When you ask me why - I think why not? With some luck and a lot of perseverance I'll be riding this cycle across the country in September. Why not take the Venturi out and ensure I'm starting with a clean, fully serviceable carburetor?

Cheers!
Loch

[T. Cotten]

Its not so much about dirt getting into the motor, Loch,..

Its about plugging up the main nozzle holes, and running horrible:

NZZLCRUD.jpg
(M74B shown)

Many of you are aware how Indian Linkerts have their air correction port at the front of the venturi, like the WLA M88.

741-1VNT.jpg
(M741-1 shown.

The military was obsessed with clean air, and avoided the open hole on the side. Air is drawn in upon acceleration, through the venturies' void, down through the nozzle holes before ejected to the venturi bore.

Any stone unturned hides something to bite you.

....Cotten
PS: The molten venturi was achieved by burning down the garage, I believe, but oxy-acetylene might be more practical.

[otis71]

When it comes to ultrasound cleaner I’ve had great success with Awesome cleaner. It’s available at lower priced stores like Family Dollar. It’s the only cleaner I’ve found that doesn’t turn metal darker regardless of composition. Be warned though, use only the plain Awesome which is a yellow color. Stay clear of any other varieties including the ones with bleach, orange scent, etc.

[T. Cotten]

When it comes to ultrasound cleaner I’ve had great success with Awesome cleaner. It’s available at lower priced stores like Family Dollar. It’s the only cleaner I’ve found that doesn’t turn metal darker regardless of composition. Be warned though, use only the plain Awesome which is a yellow color. Stay clear of any other varieties including the ones with bleach, orange scent, etc.

Awesome® IS, Otis!

Definitely the poorman's SimpleGreen®, but I wonder how important darkening might be when neither L&L nor Schebler ever produced a bare bronze carburetor anyway.

My ultrasound cleaner worked great if I pre-cleaned everything first.

....Cotten

[otis71]

You’re right about darkening wouldn’t matter on the carburetors we’re talking about on this forum but I found simple green turns non bronze carburetors like Bendix and Keihin a shade darker.

[loch]

Thanks Ottis!

I'm picking up a hint here. Namely investing in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Simple Green definitely brightens the Linkert carburetors I've cleaned. The white vinegar brightens it more so. And I read that vinegar is corrosive to aluminum. I think this means that it can cause pitting as the aluminum is slowly dissolved by the acidic action of the vinegar.

[ammorest]

Tom, thanks for referring me to your post number 9. Yes, there could be hidden problems not visible without removal. So what is the remedy for a loose venturi? You say that the Colony repros are already loose. If i remember correctly you mentioned you have a method to expand a venturi. Could you please refresh my memory?Thanks.
Dave

[T. Cotten]

Venturies can be swaged oversize, and lathe-cut back to a light press-fit, Dave,..

But its more of an art than science, because the composition of venturies vary widely. Armed with an arsenal of various sizes of cones to fit the venturi fore and aft upon a half-inch threaded rod for a screw-press, the venturi is heated and compressed carefully, until the diameter at the leading edges are much larger than the target size. (You really don't know the target size until you have remedied any borewear, and cut an oversize throttledisc to match.)

I've ruined more than a few, particularly Scheblers.

Note also that because Zamac is a super-cooled liquid, it will shrink to a slip-fit in a matter of months, but at least they stay round!

...Cotten

[PaulCDF]

"I'm picking up a hint here. Namely investing in an ultrasonic cleaner."

Before I invested in an ultrasonic (unless you will be using it enough to justify purchasing).
I would try something more Rube Goldberg like (but then I'm cheap)
Here is a "family friendly" version of possible components:

Vibrator and Can A.JPGVibrator and Can B.JPG

[T. Cotten]

My comment on ultrasonics, Loch,...

Was hardly an endorsement; What good is a dishwasher if you must rinse everything first?

When I worked at a major lab, we had speed-controlled shakers that I wish I could have copied.

My Red Devil paint shaker was a bit too violent, and the motor burnt when slowed.

....Cotten
PS: DOH! The price of white vinegar has doubled!