Venturi stuck

[T. Cotten]

I don't know who has reprints, Steve,...

But my copy's cover says The Armored School, Motorcycle Department, Fort Knox, Ky, MOTORCYCLE MECHANICS HANDBOOK, 1943.

On the back: Mtcl-57-51-H-Ft. Knox-8-12-43-2500 Reprinted in UK.

....Cotten

[loch]

Thanks Steve! Good story about your dad and the front cylinder cracking when catching the wash from an approaching truck. Same thing happened to me when riding through the White Mountains several years ago. My brother and I had just navigated through a downpour. I thought we were good. Then as we rode through one of the valleys a UPS truck created a wave so big you could've surfed it. I think he was aiming for me. Fortunately I was on a modern scooter so no cracked cylinders.

I have the very same text. I just got lucky. I also have copy of the compilation of 1940's Military Models WLA & WXA, that HD published in 1985. I found them both on Abebooks.com. You have to keep checking until you find one. Most of the time I've found rare publications about antique motorcycles are more reasonably priced at a rare book dealer than on E-Bay or any of the other common sources for price gouging. Moreover, I've seen sellers on E-Bay trying to get top dollar for something they appeared to have printed off of their laser-jet.

Check the AMCA library also. I found a pdf of the '28 - '32 VL parts book (perfect price - free-ninety-free).

Cheers,
Loch

[Steve Swan]

Thank you Tom and Loch for your referral to that manual. I was able to download a pdf which i can print off. Lots of great information; i love those military manuals, they are so thorough and reading them is about as close as one can get to attending mechanic's school.

I have rode in quite a number of adverse weather conditions, have yet to surf the wash of an oncoming truck... i got caught in an unexpected downpour test riding my restored '27 JD that has original cylinders. All i could think of was my Dad's story about cracking a cylinder...

[T. Cotten]

If you like digital stuff, Steve,

Then websearch "TM 10-515 The Motorcycle, 1942", if you haven't already snagged it.

I've only saved the carb stuff, and its funny how just like the Armored School, the Quartermasters illustrated Schebler chimeras,.. but different graphics completely.

Didn't Jerry W. attribute all the cracked small-port front Knuckleheads to something like splash? Hope he chimes in...

...Cotten

[Steve Swan]

If you like digital stuff, Steve,

Then websearch "TM 10-515 The Motorcycle, 1942", if you haven't already snagged it.

I've only saved the carb stuff, and its funny how just like the Armored School, the Quartermasters illustrated Schebler chimeras,.. but different graphics completely.

Didn't Jerry W. attribute all the cracked small-port front Knuckleheads to something like splash? Hope he chimes in...

...Cotten

Thanks Tom!

[Rubone]

Tom, could you share a bit more about the "Armored School Handbook?" If it's possible, i'd like to find a copy for my reference library.

Easily found on eBay. It is also on the Hydra-Glide forum site. It is also downloadable. See the "downloads" section.
https://www.hydra-glide.net/phpBB3/a.../category?id=8

[T. Cotten]

While Loch works on it, Folks,...

Here's how bad a nozzle can get with a potmetal Scheb!

STUKNZZL.jpg
(The spacer below the nut is a bearing.)

And some venturies come out harder than others...

VENTTORT.jpg

Some fall out because the bike burned, but that's a last resort...

VENTMELT.jpg

Nobody can make a living at this.

.....Cotten

[dukekleman]

You hit the nail on the head there Cotton!
I've been at this a long time as many others have. It's very difficult to get paid for your actual time spent when it comes to working on the older bikes. We do it because we love it, doesn't always pay the monthly expenses.
However, I really do love doing it!!!

[Jerry Wieland]

Thanks Tom!

Tom My opinion on the front knuckle head cracking was the 'perfect storm' of 3 things 1. Poor initial design with the cooling fins coming together at 90 degrees. 2. Bobbers running without a front fender allowing rain to splash directly on the front of the head. 3. Aftermarket pipes that were oversized and were routed under the chassis were driven into the exhaust port and then were bounced on when the bike bottomed out.

Thanks Jerry

[T. Cotten]

Tom My opinion on the front knuckle head cracking was the 'perfect storm' of 3 things 1. Poor initial design with the cooling fins coming together at 90 degrees. 2. Bobbers running without a front fender allowing rain to splash directly on the front of the head. 3. Aftermarket pipes that were oversized and were routed under the chassis were driven into the exhaust port and then were bounced on when the bike bottomed out.

Thanks Jerry

My fossil record was only a shadow of yours, Jerry!

But I think #1 accounted for nearly all of them. There were too many.

To bring this back to front-cylinder-heat topic, front OHV heads had significantly more finnage than rears. Did it help or hurt?

.....Cotten

[Steve Swan]

Easily found on eBay. It is also on the Hydra-Glide forum site. It is also downloadable. See the "downloads" section.
https://www.hydra-glide.net/phpBB3/a.../category?id=8

Thanks Robbie!

[loch]

Update on Venturi removal:

I attempted the heating and removal with a dowel method today.

I got a 1 3/8 inch dowel from the hardware store. About five minutes with a rasp and it was just the right diameter to slid into the carburetor. I injected the atmospheric vent hole with WD-40 yesterday, prior to leaving for Philly and the Museum of the American Revolution (just an excuse to go downtown and get some excellent grub.

Today I heated the carburetor body with a plumbers torch and made multiple attempts to knock the Venturi out with the dowel and a 5 lb mallet. It did not move, not one centimeter. I was not gentle with the hammering part.

Is there another method of removal that is effective? I mean, next step of me is to cut a longitudinal line into the Venturi and crush into the center of the throat. I used this same method for removing old throttle post bearings on the M74 last summer.

The Venturi is pitted along the leading edge (edge facing the air cleaner). I suspect that it's either been in service for a long time or has been neglected, or both. Either way, it probably needs to be replaced.

Any suggestions on cutting out a stuck Venturi?

I also need to find a replacement. I'm pretty sure the M31 isn't the correct Linkert for this model year VL. Anyone know the correct part number for the M31 Venturi?

Thanks,
Loch

[T. Cotten]

It is certainly replaceable, Loch!

Although cutting it out has risks, and since we do not know what is holding it, it might not release with a saw-cut anyway.

I freely admit that I have put them in a press...

J&LPRES2.jpg
And they have made a decent 'report' when they broke loose!

....Cotten

[loch]

Oh, well that's not very promising! Wish I had a press.

Thanks, Tom! Like your shop companions. Sometimes the neighborhood cat strolls around the garage when I'm working. Not so much now that it's cold.

I will attempt the Dremel, with a cutting head on a 6 inch shaft.

I think the correct replacement part number for the Venturi would be 1269-30A, 1 1/8 Venturi for the 1930 - 1932 VL, as listed in the parts manual, 1928 - 1932.

I did manage to get the tanks off and installed and tested the primary fuel tank petcock, then installed the fuel line. Then I discovered I need another elbow for the reserve side. Sometimes it all seems like an upstream swim.

Loch


mainfuellineinstalled.jpg

[PaulCDF]

Loch;

I only did this once; so far from expert; at this point I would consider tincture of time(patience) and submersing the body (again?) in White vinegar 48-72 hours followed by; blow dry everything with compressed air then submerge body again in penetrating oil of choice: Kroil; PB Blaster; ATF/Acetone mix for additional 48-72 hours. Only thing you lose is time (Not like we're going on a
run tomorrow).