'32 VL - New Family Member

[loch]

A '32 VL has chosen my home to spend the next several decades of its life. I'm creating a laundry list of things that it will need. Among them are, all of the fuel line components from the tanks to the carburetor. The previous caretaker plugged the main tank and ran fuel using rubber hose and what looks like a fuel valve from outboard motor tank - a plastic one. Seriously? Anyway.

My question is regarding the switches on the switch panel. They are black pull up switches. One illuminates the lights, the other engages the ignition system. Every picture I've seen it appears that there are actual keyed switches. I'm also becoming accustom to the idea that because of the lack of documentation at the time, or the loss of any documentation, it's possible that these could be original - although I highly doubt it, considering the state of the fuel system. Either way, I'm wondering if anyone has any information or idea about this.

I also have a question about the number stamps. The belly numbers match but they are 31 stamps and the engine number is 32. Is is possible that Harley Davidson made a bunch more cases than they could sell in 31 and used up the 31 cases in 32. The engine number is low - 1441. So considering they apparently started each year at 1000 this would be the 441st cycle off the assembly line.

VLSwitchPanel.jpg

[PaulCDF]

Loch;
AMCA Library has: "Spare Part for Harley-Davidson Motorcycles and Sidecars 1928-1932 Models Inclusive"
Might be a place to start.

[Jim]

You'll want to contact Steve Slocomb at https://www.vlheaven.com/ and buy his VL restoration book. it is a MUST HAVE for any VL owner. Those switches and light are incorrect. I think those books are also sold here in the US, but I forget who sells them. Someone else will chime in with that.

[Steve Slocombe]

Thanks Jim and Replicant Metals in PA have my VL Restoration Book if you don't need a signed copy. Your late 1931 engine cases could indeed be OK for an early 1932 engine number. The dash switches are incorrect but may work, likewise the fuel line. The Harley fuel valves have a steel core in a brass body and suffer from standing in the modern wet gas. Is the bike going to be 'just a rider' or a 'points bike' for AMCA judging? There is a significant dollar difference between, and some Winners Circle bikes don't get ridden as much as they should.

[ammorest]

Also noticed the ammeter is incorrect. Should be silver faced with the Harley bar and shield. Does anyone know of any good reproductions made of that ammeter and the later white faced one? Thanks.
Dave

[loch]

Thank you for all the feedback!

I have Steve's book. That notwithstanding, I have found the amount of misinformation continues to hamstring efforts at correcting errant failings of previous "restorers", as they might call themselves. Case in point; I recently had a recommended mechanic of vintage machines tell me the belly-number-year stamp should absolutely match the year-stamp on the engine embossing (VIN). I realized Harley Davidson's batch style manufacturing processes might create an overflow of minor proportions from year-to-year. So I didn't argue the point with the mechanic. Harley Davidson wouldn't just throw away extra cases that had already been paired and stamped. I have looked for photos that show the switch panel, to see if I could find one that was similar to one on my cycle. Obviously, I didn't find one. Sidebar: I live in PA. I think it's not at all ironic that I might read a book published by someone in England and read of a producer of replicant parts in Lititz, PA. A mere 80 miles from home. I already have an order with Tom for the missing fuel components.

Points, concourse - no thanks. I fall somewhere between that and patina. I scored a 195 on the S3 Assessment (Steve Slocumbe Sanity Assessment). I'm not single but my wife has said on more than one occasion, "You deserve to have all of the cool bikes you want." But who cares about any of this? Really? My philosophy is; if it's not functional then it belongs either in the trash or in a museum. When it comes to cycles, I want to ride it. But I don't want it to look like I don't care. Besides, a clean cycle is easier to work on and easier to find problems. At least that's been my experience. That said, I learned an important lesson this summer when working on my Panhead; don't use cheap parts. You just end up replacing them sooner than later.

I also noticed yesterday, after looking at a Mecum concourse model that the ammeter is incorrect. Thanks, Dave, for verifying that! Finding an original will be a chore. Finding a representative repro might be as difficult though. I will look around.

While I'm working on rebuilding my Panhead I'm noticing all of the leaking fuel and oil lines. The VL is going to need a lot I think before I even consider riding it down the road. My urge is to jump on it and give it a spin. But that's pretty much what I did with the Panhead. And it didn't have nearly as many things obviously wrong with it. Now I'm doing the needful to the Panhead. What I should've done when I first brought it home.


GrandfatherSon.jpg

[loch]

Almost forgot -

Who knows about glass bead balancing? I was researching tire replacement. Never done this before, shamefully. I've been riding my entire adult life and have never undertaken this seemingly simple task. Anyway, the VL tires NEED to be replaced. I'm pretty sure the date code is '78.

I found a site where the guy does glass bead balancing on vintage Honda tires. Will this work for an old bike with a rigid frame and springer forks? Or does that even matter. I'm asking because there must be dynamic-force differences between a tire run on a rigid frame verses a tire run on a swing arm frame with hydraulic shocks all around.

[joe fxs fxr]

Fixing a few odds and ends on the pan? Looks like major overhaul to me! Nice pair of bikes, enjoy.

[PaulCDF]

Loch
I know nothing about "glass bead balancing" but here is the method I used when changing tires on my Chief:

USE A PLASTIC BAG TO MOUNT A TIRE - Old Cars Weekly

[PaulCDF]

Also noticed the ammeter is incorrect. Should be silver faced with the Harley bar and shield. Does anyone know of any good reproductions made of that ammeter and the later white faced one? Thanks.
Dave

Dave;
Check Indiangauge.com
I believe Mr. Flanagan may have some Harley ammeter parts (or he may know where they can be found).

[loch]

Thanks, Paul.

Impressive. Did you get any of the bag caught in the tire or did it all come out? What happens if a piece of the bag is stuck between the rim and the tube. Won't it throw off the balance?

I also stumbled into the Indiangauge website this afternoon when doing some research. I need to look around a bit. The first one I came across appears to be an original '34-1/2 - '36 (sans bar and shield).

[Steve Slocombe]

If you have my book then the exploded view of the dash panel parts is a highlight. One of the points I make early on is to make a plan before spending major dollars. You have the Cycleray headlamp on the bike instead of the Motolamp, and the 1935/6 muffler instead of the 1932/3 style, and a correct 1932 paint scheme will not be cheap. Consider how much of this is important to you. My 1934 bobber has probably got more miles on it than my showroom restorations.

[PaulCDF]

Sound Advice from Steve.

Bag did not get stuck at all came away completely so no bits of plastic to effect balance.
I "cheated" a bit and sprayed a w a mist of WD40 on the bag. Kitchen "Pam" would probably work just as well.
A hot day or warm garage will make it easier than working in the cold. Slipped right on.

[T. Cotten]

Sorry I must ask Folks,...

But what's the "bag"?

If its the inner tube, WD-40 should be discouraged!

....Cotten
PS: For inner tube installation, I found a cone of pool room "talc" in the dumpster that is a life-time supply.

[loch]

Seriously, T!

Pool rooms? I haven't seen a pool room since I left the Navy.

Someone, somewhere also makes a good point about Windex rusting the inside of the rim.

Steve, I have given lots of thought to the ideas of showroom vs ridable restorations. I lean heavily toward ridable and don't really consider them restorations. Bottomline, I learned a lot from the Panhead experience. I know that just jumping on a bike and running it without any knowledge of its history is foolish. I'm just glad the Panhead decided to seize before I headed out on the cross country journey. I'm not going to the same with the VL. I'm doing just enough to get it in running shape.

Right now I pretty sure all of the fluid lines are leaking to some degree. The line from the primary tank is nonexistent and the reserve is, well, as I described before, messed up. So those are first. As is a carburetor cleaning and inspection and a pressure test on the manifold. This is while I wait for the tires to arrive. The tires on it now. Let me say, I've never seen tires that bad. While the tires are off I check the rims to ensure they're true. Brake inspection of course, the front brake feels a little squishy, limp. Maybe just a cable adjustment.

I'm just rattling on here. I'll create a checklist and just run down the list. Paint? That won't even make it on the list. The paint isn't original, but it isn't bad. And so a repaint isn't going to be original either, it will just look original. And quite frankly, I'm happy with the paint as it is. So I'm not going to care much about it as I'm riding the back roads of northern PA next spring and summer.