Have you ever been looking at something for the first time, and even though it's the first time you've ever seen that particular thing, you just know something isn't right with the way it looks?
Does anybody happen to know the part number for what I'm fairly certain is supposed to be a plug that goes on top of the transmission?
I looked at the parts manual I downloaded from the library. It's not very specific with this particular plug or bolt.
- Loch
TransmissionPlug.jpg
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Originally posted by loch View PostHere is the SN. Open 4, closed 4. Steve's pic shows open 4 for 1932. Close 4 for 34. Not sure if this is definitive or not. The embossing does not show any of the signs shown in the bad numbers. But again this may not be definitive. The 32 in picture looks exactly like the 32 in Steve's example of the same year. The 4-digit SN itself is suspicious just because it's comprised of only two numbers; 4 and 1. But again, this alone does not mean it's a bad number.
Open 4? In your SN I see two closed 4s but no open 4. In Steve’s picture of 32VL4874 both 4s are closed. Where’s the open 4 for 1932? Which SN are you referring to?
I can’t see anything wrong with your SN and all characters appear consistent with factory stamping for 1932. As for the sequence portion consisting only of 4s and 1s, that isn’t a problem on this occasion and obviously a similar thing will occur with many other engine numbers. I even have a photo of a Sportster engine number with five 4s in the sequence portion but I can’t see anything wrong with it.
Eric
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Loch, The information on the road run will be posted on this website or in the Club magazine. Stay tuned!
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Hi Paul,Originally posted by PaulCDF View Post
Loch;
AMCA Library has: "Spare Part for Harley-Davidson Motorcycles and Sidecars 1928-1932 Models Inclusive"
Might be a place to start.
Where is the AMCA library? On this site or the regular AMCA site? -Found it!
-Loch
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Here is the SN. Open 4, closed 4. Steve's pic shows open 4 for 1932. Close 4 for 34. Not sure if this is definitive or not. The embossing does not show any of the signs shown in the bad numbers. But again this may not be definitive. The 32 in picture looks exactly like the 32 in Steve's example of the same year. The 4-digit SN itself is suspicious just because it's comprised of only two numbers; 4 and 1. But again, this alone does not mean it's a bad number.
VLSN.jpg
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Dear All, Rob Veitch in Australia is custodian of the VL Register and his Email address is on my Website at www.vlheaven.com. It contains all engine numbers submitted, from left crankcases seen at the swap meets to complete running bikes. The 1300 numbers collected in 25 years represents about 3% survival of the production. There are no owner details recorded so feel free to add your engine number.
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You could post a photo of your SN although you may get more than one opinion of it. But Steve’s book has some good pictures. My copy is the revised fourth edition and it has 32VL4874 which is a good example for comparison with yours.Originally posted by loch View PostHi Eric,
I have not had them checked. Who does this, authenticating VINs? As far as I can tell they're real. Using the example in Steve Slocombe's text. According to Steve there's some kind of VL registry. He comments in his book about one of the cycles in a picture is "the highest number on the registry..."(24-9). I'm interested to know if the registry is all currently known VLs. Or is like a the registry of historic homes - just those that are classified as museum quality or something like that.
-Loch
And here’s a partial example of a 31 BN.

I don’t know if the VL Register is still going but it used to contain SNs regardless of complete machine (restored, being restored, basket case, project) or just the engine cases.
Eric
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Sign up where, with who, Rich?Originally posted by RichO View PostDid you say Northern PA next summer? You need to sign up and join us at the Wellsboro, PA.National road run in June. Three days of riding great country back roads with like minded people and their old two wheeled wonders.
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Hi Eric,
I have not had them checked. Who does this, authenticating VINs? As far as I can tell they're real. Using the example in Steve Slocombe's text. According to Steve there's some kind of VL registry. He comments in his book about one of the cycles in a picture is "the highest number on the registry..."(24-9). I'm interested to know if the registry is all currently known VLs. Or is like a the registry of historic homes - just those that are classified as museum quality or something like that.
-Loch
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Originally posted by loch View PostI recently had a recommended mechanic of vintage machines tell me the belly-number-year stamp should absolutely match the year-stamp on the engine embossing (VIN). I realized Harley Davidson's batch style manufacturing processes might create an overflow of minor proportions from year-to-year. So I didn't argue the point with the mechanic. Harley Davidson wouldn't just throw away extra cases that had already been paired and stamped.
BNs are often the same year as the SN but sometimes the BN is earlier and on occasion the BN can be a later year than the SN. Perhaps you could ask the ‘recommended mechanic of vintage machines’ you mentioned to read this thread.
Judging by the few photo examples I’ve collected thus far there may have been hundreds of 1932 V-series engines with 1931 BNs. And I would guess your 31 BNs are in the 7000s or 8000s?
But, and with no offence meant, are your numbers factory-stamped? Have you had them checked for authenticity?
Eric
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Did you say Northern PA next summer? You need to sign up and join us at the Wellsboro, PA.National road run in June. Three days of riding great country back roads with like minded people and their old two wheeled wonders.
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Seriously, T!
Pool rooms? I haven't seen a pool room since I left the Navy.
Someone, somewhere also makes a good point about Windex rusting the inside of the rim.
Steve, I have given lots of thought to the ideas of showroom vs ridable restorations. I lean heavily toward ridable and don't really consider them restorations. Bottomline, I learned a lot from the Panhead experience. I know that just jumping on a bike and running it without any knowledge of its history is foolish. I'm just glad the Panhead decided to seize before I headed out on the cross country journey. I'm not going to the same with the VL. I'm doing just enough to get it in running shape.
Right now I pretty sure all of the fluid lines are leaking to some degree. The line from the primary tank is nonexistent and the reserve is, well, as I described before, messed up. So those are first. As is a carburetor cleaning and inspection and a pressure test on the manifold. This is while I wait for the tires to arrive. The tires on it now. Let me say, I've never seen tires that bad. While the tires are off I check the rims to ensure they're true. Brake inspection of course, the front brake feels a little squishy, limp. Maybe just a cable adjustment.
I'm just rattling on here. I'll create a checklist and just run down the list. Paint? That won't even make it on the list. The paint isn't original, but it isn't bad. And so a repaint isn't going to be original either, it will just look original. And quite frankly, I'm happy with the paint as it is. So I'm not going to care much about it as I'm riding the back roads of northern PA next spring and summer.
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Sorry I must ask Folks,...
But what's the "bag"?
If its the inner tube, WD-40 should be discouraged!
....Cotten
PS: For inner tube installation, I found a cone of pool room "talc" in the dumpster that is a life-time supply.
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Sound Advice from Steve.
Bag did not get stuck at all came away completely so no bits of plastic to effect balance.
I "cheated" a bit and sprayed a w a mist of WD40 on the bag. Kitchen "Pam" would probably work just as well.
A hot day or warm garage will make it easier than working in the cold. Slipped right on.
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