Non Starter

[T. Cotten]

I'm on my wife's computer right now, JSB5,

And won't get your email until I get home to the shop..

However, Steve's note on your timing mark is paramount, for even a perfect manifold and blue-printed carb wouldn't run out of time.

And as Jerry suggested, a penetrant, like Marvel or even kerosene flooded and soaked upon the rings might release them.
(I used a 'speed-wrench' with a socket upon the sprocket nut, mostly for fresh assemblies, and it allows you to reverse the motor if it helps.)

But please do the same thing with oil before firing!

....Cotten

[JSB55]

I'm on my wife's computer right now, JSB5,

And won't get your email until I get home to the shop..

However, Steve's note on your timing mark is paramount, for even a perfect manifold and blue-printed carb wouldn't run out of time.

And as Jerry suggested, a penetrant, like Marvel or even kerosene flooded and soaked upon the rings might release them.
(I used a 'speed-wrench' with a socket upon the sprocket nut, mostly for fresh assemblies, and it allows you to reverse the motor if it helps.)

But please do the same thing with oil before firing!

....Cotten

The flywheel vertical line timing mark is in the "window", front cylinder pushrods at their low point, mark on the narrow end of the timing cam dead on aligned to the felt on the points lever, and a test light confirms the points are completing the circuit, the latter two with the timer in full advance position. If there's something else I should be trying, I don't know what it is, other than reducing the gap to .018, which makes my 65 Pan run a little better.

For penetrant I used the old school 50/50 ATF/Acetone, but I also have Kroil, Strong Arm Spray, and Marvel Mystery Oil on hand, if one of those would be better.

Been turning it over with the kicker, but I'll see what I can rig up for the sprocket nut over the weekend.

[JSB55]

So, after soaking the cylinders with Marvel Mystery OIl for a week, and nothing I did ever getting me to more than 30 psi of compression, I finally bit the bullet and pulled the engine. Sho nuff, not a trace of the red stuff in the cylinders, so the rings aren't sealing correctly, plus the valves and guides are toast. Off to my trusty engine builder, who can do a *far* better rebuild than I could.

With the engine out, I figured I might as well go Full Monty and pull the transmission, at least for visual inspection, and to see if I can find the source of serious leaking of fluid. Going to tackle that myself, following some YouTube vids, and the impeccably detailed post here from "Pa", showing a complete rebuild, step by step, if I end up having to do that. HOWEVER, "Pa" used the HD tool (12735-42) for the Main Seal extraction and replacement, and, of course, I can't find that, or an aftermarket replacement, anywhere.

At a minimum, I'd like to replace all the gaskets and seals, and reseat/reseal the mounting studs. Is there a workaround for the Main Seal without the special tool? This is a 54 ServiCar with 3 speed+reverse transmission.

Thanks for any pointers!

[T. Cotten]

Personally, JSB...

I wouldn't take it apart until I filled it with kerosene, and actually found out if the seal was bad, and any other places it may be leaking.

Beyond that, got drywall screws and pliers?

Getting the old one out is easy. Getting the new one in takes more resourcefulness. Good luck!

...Cotten

[JSB55]

Personally, JSB...

I wouldn't take it apart until I filled it with kerosene, and actually found out if the seal was bad, and any other places it may be leaking.

Beyond that, got drywall screws and pliers?

Getting the old one out is easy. Getting the new one in takes more resourcefulness. Good luck!

...Cotten

Good point, Cotten. I figured I'd pull and clean it and let it sit for a week or so to see where it's leaking. Hadn't thought about kerosene, but that's a great suggestion.

Would be a blessing if all that gunk and oil on the bottom had just come from the engine, but there is so much, I rather suspect the studs.

As for the seal, if I have to replace it, it appears I might be able to rig something up with the Jims Steering Head Bearing and Race Installer I already have. I also thought about a short piece of PVC to act as the "guide" in place of the specialty tool. Open to better suggestions, of course.

Thanks for your input!

John