Harley Davidson WL front cylinder issues

[epazikas]

Dear colleagues, I need your help! After a long and nice travel with my WL with no issues, I have left it in my garage for a few days and today I decided to have a ride. I noticed that it starts easy but the motorcycle does not have power to move.
Then I did the following checks:
1- checked both spark plugs and even thou they looked very good if it comes to the combustion color, I replaced them. After another start, the behavior was the same, in other words, starts but there is no power and when I accelerate it fails.
2- I checked the spark in both front and rear cylinders, by removing the spark plug from the front cylinder (rear cylinder spark plug was out) and let the body of the spark plug touch the aluminum head; then I kicked and saw that there is a blue spark. I repeat the same procedure on the rear side and the result was the same.
3- only for the sake I replaced the spark plugs by brand new ones and the spark cables as well, but the result is the same.
Question: what can it be? I hope this is nothing serious?

NOTE: the front cylinder works, but when I measure the temperature of both front and rear cylinders, I see that the front cylinder is much cooler than the rear one, usually half of the heat.

I would appreciate for advises.
Thank you, regards, Ed

[kitabel]

Spark is way retarded.

[epazikas]

Hi, the spark grip is full advanced, if I retard it, then the engine fails and dies. If I open the throttle, then it fails as well. Could it be the float in the carburetor that it got stacked, or the fuel filter got dirty?

[kitabel]

Does it run with the choke partially closed?

[Rubone]

Make sure your clutch isn't slipping....

[epazikas]

Hi, yes, in fact if the bike is cold, then I fully open the choke and give one click down to start the bike. Immediately after I open it fully...

[epazikas]

I have replaced the spark coil by anew one, and now the bike does not even start? I guess I have to pull back the old one again, I confess I am lost...

[HDSmitty]

I just don't understand why, after asking for input from others, you decided to replace the coil when no-one mentioned that as a possible cause of your problems, AND you stated that you'd already checked for and found a nice bright blue spark?

[epazikas]

Yes, you are right. A mistake from mine and I have pulled back the spark coil as it was before.

[sny]

Lack of compression? Check the torque on the head bolts. Look for leaks

Dear colleagues, I need your help! After a long and nice travel with my WL with no issues, I have left it in my garage for a few days and today I decided to have a ride. I noticed that it starts easy but the motorcycle does not have power to move.
Then I did the following checks:
1- checked both spark plugs and even thou they looked very good if it comes to the combustion color, I replaced them. After another start, the behavior was the same, in other words, starts but there is no power and when I accelerate it fails.
2- I checked the spark in both front and rear cylinders, by removing the spark plug from the front cylinder (rear cylinder spark plug was out) and let the body of the spark plug touch the aluminum head; then I kicked and saw that there is a blue spark. I repeat the same procedure on the rear side and the result was the same.
3- only for the sake I replaced the spark plugs by brand new ones and the spark cables as well, but the result is the same.
Question: what can it be? I hope this is nothing serious?

NOTE: the front cylinder works, but when I measure the temperature of both front and rear cylinders, I see that the front cylinder is much cooler than the rear one, usually half of the heat.

I would appreciate for advises.
Thank you, regards, Ed

[aumick10]

sny,
It is unusual for an electrical problem to manifest itself after sitting for a few days, although not unheard of.
I think a more likely issue is a fuel blockage. I would check the emulsion tube in the carby. It sounds like the idle circuit is functioning, but cannot get any fuel off idle.

[epazikas]

Thank you for your proactive reply. Do you recommend to use a torque tool for tightening the bolts? Any recommendation which torque strength to use?

[sny]

Thank you for your proactive reply. Do you recommend to use a torque tool for tightening the bolts? Any recommendation which torque strength to use?

Yes you need a torque wrench like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMPKAD0

Then you torque each bolt to 55lbs. Use a star pattern, criss-crossing the head from bolt to bolt.

If they get too loose it can allow air/gases to escape which could cause the situation you describe where it will idle but you have a loss of power and the cylinder/head is cool (because the gases are escaping rather than exploding).

Since you were riding the bike and it ran fine they could have loosened up after getting hot during your ride and then cooling. You should recheck the bolts from time to time regardless if this is your ultimate problem or not.

As others have said also look for fuel issues like clogs or float bowl sticking or loose.

[aumick10]

If you are going to use a torque wrench, you usually need a set of torque adapters to fit the base nuts. Normally not enough room to fit a socket and wrench in the space.
This set is very good quality, Stanley Proto J5100 3/8" Drive Torque Adapter Set, 12 Point, 9PC on Amazon.
These are also used for head bolts on a lot of bikes where the bolts come from underneath the heads like shovels etc.

[T. Cotten]

I don't think much of "clickers", Folks...

Get a common, cheap torsion wrench with a dual drive, both up and down.
Then adapters, such as "obstruction wrenches" (which should always make a ninety degree angle from you hand to the end of the wrench to the fastener) can be used in four different positions to access fasteners when things are in the way.

....Cotten
PS: I've got two or three spares if anybody needs one (and cheaper than the clicker!)