Original vs replica 1935 VLD forks

[Chessie Jake]

Hello,

As some of you know I'm completely tearing apart my bike (1935 VLD) and recently asked suggestions/help for a first timer on getting the forks springs off. Well, all the info. was great! They're off and yet another question. I think that my front fork (the ones with the springs) are not for my 35, but for a 36. It has the tab in the middle for mounting the horn bracket on the 36.....I think? So, my question is, how can I tell if these are originals or replicas? I need to also know how to tell the difference on real or replicas for 35 too. I'd really like to put back on my bike what is suppose to be there and want to make sure I'm not putting replica parts on it if I don't have to. I know this isn't cheap, but I'm figuring if the ones that are on it are 36's I might be able to swing a good trade with someone or give them a good deal and hope that I too can find a good deal on some original 35's too. Any information that will help me distinguish between original and replica would be greatly appreciated.



PS This is the answer that I got from someone off of ebay that was selling some forks and it really made things about as clear as mud

ebayer's answer: That is a valid question. In the future when "good repro" gets beat and looking old it is a big problem.
It will tale a trained eye to tell especially in a complete restoration.
In this case it is a bit easier because the "Spelter" brais has not been avalible for a very long time.
The flow, surface tension and eutectic properties of spelter are so much different.
The way it flows and leaves residual on the outside just looks different than brass or silver solder.
I hope this helps.

PSS Please, the simpler the better! Thanks again, Frank

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Jake, the one year 1936 VL forks have the main section with the grease connections on the back rather than the front, as they would otherwise be fouled by the one-year 1936 fork spring shield. Likewise the 1936 spring fork has an L-shaped tab at the front to secure that spring shield. This is all in my VL book which I hope you have.
The repro VL forks have a 1" stem rather than 1 1/8", and are meant to be fitted to 1936 and up frames to get that cool rigid look.

[Chessie Jake]

Steve,

Yes, I do have your VERY informative book and I'm pretty sure that's where I had learned about the spring fork with the L tab in the middle that mine has. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm figuring there is really no way to tell on the spring forks if they are replicas or originals.

Thank you,

Frank

[Steve Slocombe]

Well, if you want to get down with the OCD guys you can look for the forging marks. At the rear top section of the spring fork you will find a code number, a forging company logo and a die number. For 1930 the forging number is SC20F and for the stronger 1931-36 VL spring fork reinforced along the top ridge it is TC20F. The die numbers go up slowly as the forging dies are worn out, and will likely be 3 or 4 by 1936. But don't worry, as nobody is yet putting the fork shield tab on repro VL forks.

[Chessie Jake]

Steve,

Sorry about forgetting to take this question off of the forum after talking with you. I had sent it prior to making the decision to call you and forgot to withdraw it. It was great talking with you again. I know you have probably heard this a million times, but I'm grateful to have a person like you, that is willing to share his knowledge with me. The vintage motorcycle community (and I'm sure a lot of other people) are lucky to have a person like you to turn to. You are not only a knowledgable individual, but someone that really makes a person feel comfortable about asking even what may seem like the simplest questions to others. Again, Thank you.

Frank


PS. If you call Steve or any other European country on your cell, make sure that your plan covers it or else it is $3.00 a minute........Another lesson learned the hard way by Frank, but well worth it!

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Frank, thanks for the nice words and I enjoyed our $40 chat! I have the same problem calling US cell phones - my phone plan gives free landline calls, but it's easy to rack up a bill on a cell phone call.